North America / USA / New York State / New York City / Best Restaurants

Sunn’s

Banchan, that array of small appetizer plates that’s often an afterthought at Korean restaurants, here are elevated to high art. They might include candied anchovies (addictive!), creamy potato salad with slivers of Asian pear, or a cabbage kimchee that puts all other versions of that dish to shame. But that’s just the beginning of the treats here. The menu changes, but it often includes: salads you eat with your hands so you can use crisp endive shoots to scoop up the creamy tofu and tahini dressing; crab and chicken dumplings furry with dill and slathered in schmaltz (chicken fat) for richness; and soy caramelized brisket (ssam) you wrap in lettuce leaves and slather with tangy, peppery Korean BBQ sauce. The quality of the food here is miraculous, especially considering the kitchen is no wider or longer than most coffins.