Things To Do in Overijssel

Ferry Tales -- Following the course of the IJssel, you might want to cross back and forth from one bank to the other. A good place to do this is the scenic stretch of around 20km (12 miles) between Deventer and Zwolle, and a nice way to do it is by ferry for cars, bicycles, motorcycles, and foot passengers at the villages of Olst and Wijhe, on a crossing that takes just a few minutes.

The Olst Ferry (tel. 0570/561-563; www.olsterveer.nl) operates Monday to Friday from 7am to 10pm, Saturday from 8am to 10pm, and Sunday and holidays from 9am to 10pm. Farther north, the Wijhe Ferry (tel. 0578/631-169; www.wijheseveer.nl) operates Monday to Saturday from 6:30am to 9:30pm, and Sunday and holidays from 8am to 9:30pm during the summer season, and from 9am to 9:30pm during the winter season. By both services, it costs 1.70€ ($2.70) for a car and driver, and .30€ (50¢) for passengers, and there are other rates for two-wheelers, cars with trailers, and more.

Step Back into Staphorst -- Staphorst, 16km (10 miles) north of Zwolle on the Meppel road, is the Dutch village of your imagination, with colorfully dressed residents living as their ancestors did. This is no tourist act -- you seldom get an enthusiastic welcome from these devout and strict Calvinists, especially on Sunday, when the entire population observes a tradition that dates back centuries: With downcast eyes, separate lines of men and women form a silent procession to the churches. No automobiles are allowed into the village on the Sabbath -- even bicycle riding is forbidden. Cameras are always frowned upon. Whenever you come to Staphorst -- on Sunday or a weekday -- be sure to respect the townspeople's conservative ways and keep cameras out of sight.