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What could be nicer than sitting in a wicker chair at a sidewalk cafe on Place St-Sulpice? Relatively free of car exhaust (there’s one lane of traffic between you and the place), in good weather cafe tables on the wide sidewalk are much in demand; you may have to hover a while to get one. Indoors, it’s a 1970s archetype: Formica bar, boxy chairs, and an odd assortment of pensioners, fashion victims, students, and would-be novelists.