Tucked on a small street right behind the illustrious Rue de Rivoli, this old-fashioned, mom-and-pop restaurant has somehow survived the onslaught of chic that has inundated the neighborhood. Mom and Pop are really in the kitchen, while their son is behind the bar bantering with the customers, most of whom he knows by name. The food is simple and solid—you might start with mackerel in white wine, followed by steak frites, and finish up with a chocolate mousse, for example. Prices are extremely reasonable, considering the close proximity to the ritzy place Vendôme; in fact, this is probably one of the cheapest cups of coffee on the Right Bank. No credit cards accepted.
- Margie Rynn