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Weary culture vultures who’ve just finished the Picasso museum will appreciate this bustling corner cafe with its appealing sidewalk tables. We recommend it not just for the atmosphere, however, but because the young chef does terrific things with bistro classics like steak-frites with béarnaise sauce, or andouillette (tripe sausage) as well as lighter fare like seasonal vegetable casserole with basil oil, or a grand aioli, poached cod with aioli mayonnaise and vegetables. If you’re here early enough (8am–11:30am), it’s a top spot for breakfast too: think hot drink, pastry, and fruit juice for 8€.