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This is the sort of down-to-earth neighborhood cafe you dream of finding in showy Saint-Germain, where the food is the star of the show (and not the well-healed locals). Pull up a chair in the white and black dining area, or perch yourself at the marble-topped bar, and tuck into Normandy Saint Jacques scallops, with bacon and butternut squash, hand-chopped steak tartare with ginger and basil, or oysters grilled with prosecco. The local favorite is the croque-monsieur, and it’s easy to see why: Far from being just a simple grilled ham and cheese sandwich, Trama adds a sprinkling of truffle-infused salt and makes it with aged Comté cheese and lip-smacking leavened bread from the nearby Poujauran bakery (18 rue Jean Nicot, 7th arrond.).