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This large, old-fashioned bistro sprawls out on the sidewalk of one of the Grands Boulevards. It’s nowhere near as hip as the new restaurants in the Passage des Panoramas across the street, but the joy of the Zephyr is all in the atmosphere. It’s a friendly, noisy place to stop for a salade composé (meal-size salad) or a steak-frites, or just to sip a drink and watch the world go by. At night, the pool table becomes a focus of attention for some; others come here to dine before seeing a show at the nearby Opéra Comique. Sunday features a nice brunch.