With a dining room that can seat over 300, this gargantuan establishment is one of the last of the bouillons, or workers’ restaurants, found all over Paris back in the 19th century. The idea was to offer good food at modest prices, a concept that still speaks to working Parisians some 100 years later, if the line out the door is any indication. You come here for the experience more than for the food, which is tasty but certainly won’t win any Michelin stars. The menu covers a wide variety of traditional dishes like roast free-range chicken with fries, or rump steak with pepper sauce. Service is fast and furious, but it’s all part of the atmosphere, which is something that belongs to another time and place. It takes no reservations, so be prepared to wait.
- Margie Rynn