Grill restaurants are all the rage, but few can compete with this refined BBQ joint near Les Halles, which turns the concept of American-style grilling into something resolutely French: beech-smoked beef rib for two with mashed potato, fresh fish from petit pêcheurs (artisanal fishermen) with sauce choron (béarnaise sauce with tomatoes), and blue lobster with seasonal vegetables en papillote—all hands-down delicious. Even the fruit gets grilled, from brochettes of pineapple to apples in caramel sauce with Breton butter biscuits. Other desserts to look out for include the sticky pavlova, and fluffy churros (fried dough fingers) with chocolate. Chef Jean-François Piège is known for his playful approach to cooking, and the churros embody this, as he turns something simple into a gourmet dish.