Close your eyes and you’re at the seaside, Deauville or Trouville perhaps (famed posh spots along the Normandy coast), for you can smell the salt as you step into this ultrachic, seafood-only restaurant near Les Invalides, where truffles and oysters top pillowy Saint Jacques scallops bathed in delicate watercress sauce. Fish, as is customary in France, comes with sauces—monkfish gets ravigote cream (herby, mustardy emulsion), sole gets walnut butter—but they never overpower the “pure” taste of the flesh. The navarin d’homard, lobster in a creamy sauce, is possibly the best in town. The sharing plates include sardine rillettes for 18€, sushi for 28€, and sashimi for 28€–35€. On a sunny day, reserve a terrace spot with a view of the tree-filled Esplanade des Invalides.