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Close your eyes and you’re at the seaside, Deauville or Trouville perhaps (famed posh spots along the Normandy coast), for you can smell the salt as you step into this ultrachic, seafood-only restaurant by Les Invalides, where truffles and oysters top pillowy Saint Jacques scallops bathed in delicate watercress sauce. Fish, as is custom in France, comes with sauces—monkfish gets ravigote cream (herby, mustardy emulsion), sole gets walnut butter—but they never overpower the “pure” taste of the flesh. The navarin d’homard, lobster in a creamy sauce, is possibly the best in town. The weekend brunch is a good time to visit, when they serve juices, pastries, sea bass ceviche, and a tuna pastilla for 49€ (65€ with champagne). On a sunny day, reserve a spot on the terrace to tuck in with a view onto the tree-filled Esplanade des Invalides.