On an up-and-coming street in SoPi, this joint is emblematic of Paris’ cosmopolitan dining scene: At the helm is a Mexican chef who trained at Lyon’s legendary Institut Paul Bocuse, worked in three-star restaurants in Paris, whizzed off to learn more in Japan, then came back to launch his own restaurant. And what a restaurant it is: Green tones and natural wood provide a slick backdrop for beautifully executed dishes like celery granita, kombu-marinated veal, and yellow pollock with spiced pineapple. Take it all in with wines from France and Italy, Mexican mezcal, and even Japanese whisky.