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Red and white checks are everywhere at this old-school bistro: on the tablecloths, the wicker chairs, and even the curtains. A venerable institution since it first opened in 1908, it continues to draw in the crowds with its classy, low-key decor and traditional menu. The kitchen turns out reliable and succulent southwestern dishes like cassoulet, foie gras, and duck breast with black cherry sauce. Starters include escargots (snails) and oeufs au Madiran (eggs baked with red wine and bacon). The dessert list is full of such classics as île flottante (“floating island,” a puffy meringue floating on vanilla cream), crème brûlée, and dark chocolate mousse.