Before the Gare St-Lazare train station had its recent makeover, about the only thing you could get to eat was a limp sandwich. Today, you can eat like a king as you wait for your train to come in, and we’re not talking Burger King. Eric Frechon, a three-Michelin-starred chef, is the great mind behind this gourmet enterprise, which serves as cafe, bar, and restaurant. The lofty ceilings, wood furnishings, and white walls give the place a relaxed air, as does the menu, which features French comfort food like boeuf bourguignon, cod brandade (a sort of fish shepherd’s pie), and Toulouse sausage with mashed potatoes. Don’t be fooled, though; granny is definitely not in the kitchen. A gaggle of young, intense cooks bustle about, preparing each dish with the best ingredients and designing each plate with care. Breakfast is served from 7:30 to 11am, and tea time is 3 to 6pm.
- Margie Rynn