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This part of town has so many beautiful old bistros that it’s hard to choose just one, but when in doubt, you can’t go wrong here. Even the most hard-nosed food critics get misty-eyed about this place, which specializes in the kind of cooking that reminds people of the good old days, even if they aren’t that old. You might find comfortable classics like onglet (a type of beef steak) with shallots, or something a little more challenging, like roast venison with cranberries. This is definitely a meat-eater’s hangout, though you can find lighter fare on the ever-changing menu, like roast pigeon or monkfish with creamy rice. The wine list features many unusual and affordable bottles from small wine producers. The downside? The restaurant’s no secret, so to be seated amongst locals rather than tourists (who tend to eat early), book a table for after 8pm.