Ask any local food writer to name his or her favorite classic bistro, and there’s a good chance you’ll be directed here. The chalkboard menu changes with the seasons, but you can usually count on one of the city’s best steak frîtes (here crowned with a glistening morsel of marrow), followed by a generous slice of tarte tatin (apple tart) served with thick crème fraîche. The decor is a jumble of wooden tables, cracked tile floors, flea-market finds, and polished zinc bar—exactly how you imagine a neighborhood bistro should be.