With its high ceilings, subdued lighting, and large windows, this understatedly hip spot is a good place to regroup. During the day (except at lunchtime) dawdling is encouraged: Magazines and newspapers are available at the front entry, and a small lending library/book exchange is in the back room. At night, well-dressed 30-somethings crowd around the magnificent wood bar—which in a former life stood in a Philadelphia speakeasy—as they wait for their table. You’ll eat well here too: The offerings might include Nordic poached cod with smoked potato purée or a very French and very tender lamb navarin (stew) with fresh peas. On Sundays, the 29€-brunch comes complete with pancakes and eggs Benedict, and on Sunday nights, the Swedish chef (Henrik Andersson) returns to his roots with an all-Swedish menu.