Chef Jean-François Piège is—in my humble opinion—the most exciting chef in France right now. His ultra-modern take on traditional “bourgeois” cuisine is playful, delicious, and wholly unlike anything you’ll taste anywhere else. Book ahead for a table in his swish, grey dining room (decked in concrete walls and geometric ceiling panels that wouldn’t look amiss in Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey), then sit back for a rollercoaster ride of haute cuisine: shellfish-stuffed potato with caviar, Parmesan-infused spaghetti with truffles and fall-off-your-fork pork, and a delightful bergamot-flavored custard cream to finish. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of the descriptions; Piège’s cooking is as complex as it is satisfying. His place is near the Élysée palace, so you might spot politicians out for a business meal—though Piège’s devoted fans are never far away.