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You’ll need to reserve several days in advance to get a table in this tiny, noisy bistro by Gare du Nord, quite simply because it serves some of the best comfort cuisine in town. Try langoustines in mayonnaise to foie gras–stuffed cabbage and perfectly-cooked (that is, pink) veal with braised carrots. Locals wax lyrical about the homemade sausage and mash, and desserts are just as tempting: The cinnamon and orange is both creamy and tangy, the fraisier (strawberries, shortbread, and sour cream) has just the right crunch-to-cream ratio. Only the freshest products are used, so the menu changes regularly, but these are staples to look out for when the season’s right. Wash them down with a crisp sauvignon blanc or a berry-red Syrah and you’ll be smiling before you can say “bon appetit!”