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Arrive at 5:45pm for the early sitting or after 9:30pm for the late one. Any other time, you’ll have to queue. But the wait will be worth it, because Ober Mamma (part of a group owning seven other great restaurants, including East Mamma, 133 rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine; Biglove Caffè; and the soon-to-open Mamma F, set to be Europe’s biggest restaurant with 1,000 seats) serves superlative Italian cuisine using only the choicest of ingredients from small Italian producers. Share a stracciatella fondante fumée (the smoked, creamy innards of a burrata) served in a little metal dish, or the melt-in-mouth bresaola (dried, salted beef). The wood-oven pizzas and pastas are staples, as is the Tigramisu (traditional tiramisu named after Tigrane, the owner). Don’t forget to try a cocktail from the bar at the entrance: The Big Mamma (vodka, lime, ginger beer, and fresh fruit) is dangerously moreish.