There are not very many glass-roofed restaurants in Paris, and even fewer with a kitchen like this one. The chef’s Scandinavian roots are evident in the decor, with its sleek blonde wood and white walls. But it’s what’s on the plate that makes it difficult to get a reservation here: exquisitely refined combinations of flavors and textures, described on the menu as a list of ingredients. Resembling works of contemporary art, dishes might combine gnocchi, chestnuts, and truffles, or guinea hen with purple artichokes, and spring garlic, and could be followed with a concoction of carrots, citrus, and olives. At lunch you can choose between a menu of three, five, and seven dishes; and dinner, there’s a one fixed-price menu for one and all.
- Margie Rynn