With its seafood tapas bar next door (Clamato) and its tiny wine bar across the street (Septime la Cave), Septime has done more to gentrify this stretch of the 11th arrondissement than years of town planning ever could. With reservations made well in advance, people cross the entire city for a table in Bertrand Grébaut’s retro-chic neo-bistro. But that’s not why you should come. The progressive, seasonal dishes—anything from line-caught squid with mustard and leek sauce to pigeon with beetroot and Morello cherries—are consistently delicious, and the menus change daily according to what’s freshest in the produce market. If you can’t score a dinner reservation, try lunchtime. And if all else fails, nip next door to Clamato, where fabulous small plates of crab fritters, clams, or trout roe are washed down with lip-smacking wine that starts for as little as 5.50€ a glass. You won’t be disappointed.