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This pretty Art Deco–inspired place, tucked away on a narrow street filled with eateries behind the Aligre Market, draws food-savvy locals with impressively executed dishes like scallops in hazelnut butter, succulent roast lamb with peas, and lip-smacking passion fruit mousse with yogurt ice cream. The descriptions sound simple, but the result is wonderfully complex, with layers of flavors that explode in your mouth. A good time to visit is lunchtime, when the 17€ menu (dish of the day and a plate of cheese) is an absolute steal. If you come along for dinner, you’re in for a wonderful six-course ride with the obligatory tasting menu, which may include delights like asparagus with strawberries and burrata, and pollack in anchovy emulsion—the lot washed down with wine served by the resident sommelier who doubles as your waiter.