Planning a trip to Puerto Rico

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entering Puerto Rico During the Covid-19 Pandemic

In response to the global coronavirus pandemic, Puerto Rico has established the following rules for entering the island:

Each visitor must complete the Travel Declaration Form via the government's online portal.

Fully vaccinated travelers entering via domestic flights (from the U.S. mainland) will need to upload copies of their vaccination cards. Those travelers are not required to submit Covid-19 test results.

Each unvaccinated or international visitor must submit negative results from a PCR or antigen test taken no more than 72 hours prior to visiting the island. Those who arrive without having uploaded results will receive a $300 fine.

Because Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory, American citizens who visit the island are exempt from the CDC requirement to provide negative Covid-19 test results before returning to the mainland.

For a complete rundown of Puerto Rico's entry requirements and safety restrictions while on the island, visit the official tourism site, DiscoverPuertoRico.com.

And for a helpful overview of pandemic travel rules in Puerto Rico and other Caribbean destinations, visit Frommer's frequently updated resources page.

Passports

U.S. citizens coming from mainland destinations do not need passports to enter Puerto Rico. However, it is necessary to produce a government-issued photo ID to board a plane.

Visitors from other countries, including Canada, need a valid passport to land in Puerto Rico. For those from countries requiring a visa to enter the U.S., the same visa is necessary to enter Puerto Rico.

It is advised to always have at least one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for visas and stamps that need to appear together. It is also important to note when your passport expires. Many countries require your passport to have at least 6 months left before its expiration in order to allow you into the destination.

Passport Office Links for Select English-Speaking Countries

• Australian Passport Office (tel. 131-232)
• Canada Travel and Tourism Services
• Ireland Passports 
• New Zealand Online Passport Service (tel. 0800/225-050)
• United Kingdom Passports (tel. 0300/222-0000)
• United States Passports

Visas

The U.S. Department of State has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of participating countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. To find a list of participating countries and other info about the program, visit the website of the U.S. State Department.

Citizens of all other countries must have 1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of the visit to the U.S. and 2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to travel.state.gov.

Customs

U.S. citizens do not need to clear Puerto Rican Customs upon arrival by plane or ship from the U.S. mainland.

International travelers should consult the official website of U.S. Customs and Border Protection for information on what can be brought into Puerto Rico.

Before departing the island, U.S.-bound travelers must have their luggage inspected by the U.S. Department of Agriculture due to laws that prohibit bringing fruits and plants to the U.S. mainland. Otherwise, you can bring back as many purchased goods as you want without paying duty.

For information on what non-U.S. citizens can bring home from Puerto Rico, be sure to check with your home country. Some helpful links for several English-speaking nations:

• Australia: abf.gov.au (click "Entering and leaving Australia")

• Canada: cbsa-asfc.gc.ca

• New Zealand: customs.govt.nz

• United Kingdom: gov.uk

Medical Requirements

If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you—smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

Getting There

Puerto Rico is by far the most accessible of the Caribbean islands, with frequent airline service. It's also the major airline hub of the Caribbean Basin. Because it's part of the United States, there are no hassles for U.S. travelers related to border entry, currency exchange, etc.

By Plane

Puerto Rico is by far the most accessible of the Caribbean islands, with frequent airline service. It's also the major airline hub of the Caribbean Basin. Because it’s part of the United States, there are no hassles for U.S. travelers related to border entry, currency exchange, and so forth.

Puerto Rico has more than 130 daily flights to and from 16 destinations in the continental U.S., the most in the Caribbean. Fourteen regional airlines provide more than 100 daily flights to 29 Caribbean destinations. Eighteen airlines provide 317 weekly flights to international destinations.

Airlines traveling to Puerto Rico include: American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aa.com); Avianca (tel. 800/284-2622; www.avianca.com); Delta (tel. 800/221-1212 in the U.S. and Canada; www.delta.com); JetBlue (tel. 800/538-2583 in the U.S. and Canada; www.jetblue.com); Spirit Air (tel. 801/401-2200 in the U.S. and Canada; www.spiritair.com); United Airlines (tel. 800/231-0856, or 800/864-8331 in the U.S. and Canada; www.united.com); US Airways (tel. 800/622-1015 in the U.S. and Canada; www.usairways.com); Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com); Copa Airlines (tel. 800/772-4642; www.copaair.com); Condor (tel. 866/960-7915 in the U.S. and Canada, or 490 180 57/0-7202 in Germany; www.condor.com); LIAT (tel. 866/549-5428 from Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands, 888/844-5428 from elsewhere in the Caribbean, or 268/480-5601 from elsewhere, including the U.S.; www.liatairline.com); Seaborne Airlines (tel. 888/359-8687; www.seaborneairlines.com); Southwest Airlines (tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com); and WestJet (tel. 855/547-2451 in the U.S., or 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com).

Tips for Families

Puerto Rico is an extremely family-friendly travel destination. Nearly all resorts court parents traveling with children as guests. In only a few cases did my own family find that not true of restaurants and lodgings, and I've pointed those out.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Puerto Rico is the most gay-friendly destination in the Caribbean, with lots of accommodations, restaurants, clubs, and bars that actively cater to a gay clientele.

A good source is www.orgulloboricua.net, which is a Web portal for the island's gay and lesbian community; it has an introduction for visitors in English. In Spanish is radio show/Web blog www.saliendodelcloset.org, which involves leading figures in the gay community and has links to several points of interest.

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) links travelers up with gay-friendly hoteliers, tour operators, and airline and cruise-line representatives. It offers monthly newsletters, marketing mailings, and a membership directory that's updated once a year. Membership is $225 yearly, plus a $100 administration fee for new members.

Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) offers gay and lesbian tours worldwide and is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines.

Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service.

Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. (In 2005, tennis great Martina Navratilova was named Olivia's official spokesperson.)

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.), both good, annual, English-language guidebooks focused on gay men; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Puerto Rico poses no major health problem for most travelers. If you have a chronic condition, however, you should check with your doctor before visiting the islands. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (tel. 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Finding a good doctor in Puerto Rico is easy, and most speak English.

If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance and carry your ID card in your purse or wallet. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions, in case you lose your medication or run out. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

And don't forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

It's best to stick to bottled mineral water here. Although tap water is said to be safe to drink, many visitors experience diarrhea, even if they follow the usual precautions. The illness usually passes quickly without medication, if you eat simply prepared food and drink only mineral water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.

The sun can be brutal, especially if you haven't been exposed to it in some time. Experts advise that you limit your time on the beach the first day. If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. If your exposure is followed by fever or chills, a headache, or a feeling of nausea or dizziness, see a doctor.

Sandflies (or "no-see-ums") can still be a problem in Puerto Rico but are not the menace they are in other Caribbean destinations. They appear mainly in the early evening, and even if you can't see these tiny bugs, you sure can "feel-um."

Your favorite insect repellent will protect you from them, should they become a problem.

Although mosquitoes are a nuisance, they do not carry malaria in Puerto Rico. However, after a long absence, the dreaded dengue fever has returned to Puerto Rico. The disease is transmitted by the Aede mosquito, and its symptoms include fever, headaches, pain in the muscles and joints, skin blisters, and hemorrhaging. It usually is gone after a week but the strongest cases are fatal.

Hookworm and other intestinal parasites are relatively common in the Caribbean, though you are less likely to be affected in Puerto Rico than on other islands. Hookworm can be contracted by just walking barefoot on an infected beach. Schistosomiasis (also called bilharzia), caused by a parasitic fluke, can be contracted by submerging your feet in rivers and lakes infested with a certain species of snail.

Like major urban areas along the East Coast, Puerto Rico has been hard hit by AIDS and other sexually transmitted diseases. Exercise at least the same caution in choosing your sexual partners and practicing safe sex as you would at home.

Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home, but they are not likely to provide for medical evacuation in case of life-threatening injury or illness. It's a good idea to buy a travel insurance policy that provides for emergency medical evacuation. If you have to buy a one-way same-day ticket home and forfeit your nonrefundable round-trip ticket, you might be out big bucks. And the cost of a flying ambulance could wipe out your life's savings.

Check with your insurer, particularly if you're insured by an HMO, about the extent of its coverage while you're overseas. With the exception of certain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid, your medical insurance should cover medical treatment -- even hospital care -- overseas. However, most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills upfront, and they send you a refund after you've returned home and filed the necessary paperwork.

If you require additional insurance, try one of the following companies:

• MEDEX International (tel. 888/MEDEX-00 [633-3900] or 410/453-6300; fax 410/453-6301; www.medexassist.com)
• Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com); for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at tel. 800/777-8710.
• The Divers Alert Network (DAN; tel. 800/446-2671 or 919/684-2948; www.diversalertnetwork.org)

Crime & Safety

The U.S. Department of State issues no special travel advisories for the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, the way it might for, say, the more troubled island of Jamaica. However, there are crime problems in Puerto Rico, but they rarely surface along San Juan's Condado and Isla Verde beaches and Old San Juan. Still caution should be exercised at night, since muggings do happen, and isolated areas should be avoided.

Burglary, including vandalizing of automobiles, is another problem, so don't leave valuables in cars, even when the doors are locked.

Take precautions about leaving valuables on the beach, and exercise extreme care if you're searching for a remote beach where there's no one in sight. The only person lurking nearby might be someone not interested in surf and sand but a robber waiting to make off with your possessions.

Avoid wandering around the darkened and relatively deserted alleys and small streets of San Juan's Old City at night, especially those off the oceanside Norzagaray Boulevard, which is relatively deserted at night.

If you are traveling out on the island, plan to do your driving during the daylight hours, both for road-safety and crime-precaution reasons. A wrong turn at midnight could lead to a whole lot of trouble of all stripes.

So in short, crime exists here as it does everywhere. Use common sense and take precautions. Theft and occasional muggings do occur on the Condado and Isla Verde beaches at night, so you might want to confine your moonlit beach nights to the fenced-in and guarded areas around some of the major hotels. The countryside of Puerto Rico is safer than San Juan, but caution is always in order. Avoid narrow country roads and isolated beaches at night and exercise caution on them during the day.

Calendar of Events

January

Three Kings Day, islandwide. On this traditional gift-giving day in Puerto Rico, there are festivals with lively music, dancing, parades, puppet shows, caroling troubadours, and traditional feasts. January 6.

San Sebastián Street Festival, Calle San Sebastián, in Old San Juan. Nightly celebrations with music, processions, crafts, and typical foods, as well as graphic arts and handicraft exhibitions. For more information, call tel. 787/721-2400. Mid-January.

February

San Blas de Illescas Half Marathon, Coamo. International and local runners compete in a challenging 13-mile (21km) half-marathon in the hilly south-central town of Coamo. Call Delta Phi Delta Fraternity (tel. 787/825-4077). Early February.

Coffee Harvest Festival, Maricao. Folk music, a parade of floats, typical foods, crafts, and demonstrations of coffee preparation in Maricao, a 1-hour drive east of Mayagüez. For more information, call tel. 787/838-2290 or 787/267-5536. Second week of February.

Carnival Ponceño, Ponce. The island's Carnival celebrations feature float parades, dancing, and street parties. One of the most vibrant festivities is held in Ponce, known for its masqueraders wearing brightly painted horned masks. For more information, call tel. 787/284-4141. Mid-February.

Casals Festival, Performing Arts Center in San Juan. Sanjuaneros and visitors alike eagerly look forward to the annual Casals Festival, the Caribbean's most celebrated cultural event. When renowned cellist Casals died in Puerto Rico in 1973 at the age of 97, the Casals Festival was 16 years old and attracting the same class of performers who appeared at the Pablo Casals Festival in France, founded by Casals after World War II. When he moved to Puerto Rico in 1957 with his wife, Marta Casals Istomin (former artistic director of the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts), he founded not only this festival but also the Puerto Rico Symphony Orchestra to foster musical development on the island.

Ticket prices for the Casals Festival range from $30 to $40. A 50% discount is offered to students, people 60 and older, and persons with disabilities. Tickets are available through the Puerto Rico Symphonic Orchestra in San Juan (tel. 787/721-7727), the Luis A. Ferré Performing Arts Center (tel. 787/620-4444), or Ticket Center (tel. 787/792-5000).

Information is also available from the Casals Festival (tel. 787/721-8370; www.festcasalspr.gobierno.pr). The festivities take place from late February to early March.

March

Emancipation Day, islandwide. Commemoration of the emancipation of Puerto Rico's slaves in 1873, held at various venues. March 22.

April

Saborea, El Escambrón Beach, San Juan. A weekend culinary extravaganza every April sponsored by the Puerto Rico tourism board, Saborea brings together island flavors and chefs and draws global culinary stars. Call tel. 787/751-8001 or visit www.saboreapuertorico.com. April 1 to 3, 2011.

Good Friday and Easter, islandwide. Celebrated with colorful ceremonies and processions. April 8 to April 10, 2011.

José de Diego Day, islandwide. Commemoration of the birthday of José de Diego, the patriot, lawyer, writer, orator, and political leader who was the first president of the Puerto Rico House of Representatives under U.S. rule. April 17.

Sugar Harvest Festival, San Germán. This festival marks the end of the island's sugar harvest, with live music, crafts, and typical foods, as well as exhibitions of sugar-cane plants and past and present harvesting techniques. Late April.

May

Puerto Rican Danza Week (Semana de la "Danza" Puertorriqueña), Convento de los Dominicos, Old San Juan. This week commemorates what is, perhaps, the most expressive art form in the Puerto Rican culture: danza music and dance. Throughout Danza Week, live performances and conferences are held at Convento de los Dominicos's indoor patio. The building is located on Old San Juan's Cristo Street. For information, call tel. 800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400. Second week of May.

Heineken JazzFest, San Juan. The annual jazz celebration is staged at Parque Sixto Escobar. Each year a different jazz theme is featured. The open-air pavilion is in a scenic oceanfront location in the Puerta de Tierra section of San Juan, near the Caribe Hilton. For more information, check out the website www.prheinekenjazz.com, which has schedules and links to buy tickets and package information. End of May through the beginning of June.

June

San Juan Bautista Day, islandwide. Puerto Rico's capital and other cities celebrate the island's patron saint with weeklong festivities. At midnight, sanjuaneros and others walk backward into the sea (or nearest body of water) three times to renew good luck for the coming year. San Juan hosts several events, from music fests to sports events, for several days before and after the holiday. June 24.

SoFo Culinary Festival, Old San Juan. Held twice a year, in the summer and autumn, during which restaurants on La Fortaleza Street open their doors to offer food and live music. Visit www.tastecuisine.net. Mid-June and mid-September.

Aibonito Flower Festival, at Road 721 next to the City Hall Coliseum, in the central mountain town of Aibonito. This annual flower-competition festival features acres of lilies, anthuriums, carnations, roses, gardenias, and begonias. For more information, call tel. 787/735-3871. Last week in June and first week in July.

July

Luis Muñoz Rivera's Birthday, islandwide. A birthday celebration commemorating Luis Muñoz Rivera (1829-1916), statesman, journalist, poet, and resident commissioner in Washington, D.C. July 20.

El Gigante Marathon, Adjuntas. This 9 1/4-mile (15km) race starts at Puerta Bernasal and finishes at Plaza Pública. For more information call tel. 787/829-3310. Sunday before July 25. It will take place July 24, 2011.

Loíza Carnival. This annual folk and religious ceremony honors Loíza's patron saint, John (Santiago) the Apostle. Colorful processions take place, with costumes, masks, and bomba dancers (the bomba has a lively Afro-Caribbean dance rhythm). This jubilant celebration reflects the African and Spanish heritage of the region. For more information, call tel. 787/876-1040. Late July through early August.

August

Cuadragésimo Cuarto Torneo de Pesca Interclub del Caribe, Cangrejos Yacht Club. This international blue-marlin fishing tournament features crafts, music, local delicacies, and other activities. For more information, call tel. 787/791-1015. Mid-August.

International Billfish Tournament, at Club Náutico, San Juan. This is one of the premier game-fishing tournaments and the longest consecutively held billfish tournament in the world. Fishermen from many countries angle for blue marlin that can weigh up to 900 pounds (408kg). For specific dates and information, call tel. 787/722-0177. Late August to early September.

October

La Raza Day (Columbus Day), islandwide. This day commemorates Columbus's landing in the New World. October 10.

National Plantain Festival, Corozal. This annual festivity involves crafts, paintings, agricultural products, exhibition, and sale of plantain dishes; neuva trova music and folk ballet are performed. For more information, call tel. 787/859-3060. Mid-October.

November

Start of Baseball Season, throughout the island. Six Puerto Rican professional clubs compete from November to January. Professionals from North America also play here. The city's Hiram Bithorn Stadium is also a frequent host for Major League Baseball series; in 2010 it was host to several New York Mets-Florida Marlins games.

Festival of Puerto Rican Music, San Juan. An annual classical and folk music festival, one of its highlights is a cuatro-playing contest. (A cuatro is a guitarlike instrument with 10 strings.) For more information, call tel. 787/721-5274. First week in November.

Jayuya Indian Festival, Jayuya. This fiesta features the culture and tradition of the island's original inhabitants, the Taíno Indians, and their music, food, and games. More than 100 artisans exhibit and sell their works. There is also a Miss Taíno Indian Pageant. For more information, call tel. 787/828-2020. Second week of November.

Puerto Rico Discovery Day, islandwide. This day commemorates the "discovery" by Columbus in 1493 of the already inhabited island of Puerto Rico. Columbus is thought to have come ashore at the northwestern municipality of Aguadilla, although the exact location is unknown. November 19.

December

Old San Juan's White Christmas Festival, Old San Juan. Special musical and artistic presentations take place in stores, with window displays. December 1 through January 12.

Puerto Rico Heritage Artisans Fair, San Juan. The best and largest artisans fair on the island features more than 100 artisans who turn out to exhibit and sell their wares. The fair includes shows for adults and children, and typical food and drink. It's held at the beautiful Luis Muñoz Rivera Park in Puerta de Tierra and is sponsored by the government. It used to be held on the grounds of the Bacardi rum plant. December 12 through 13.

Las Mañanitas, Ponce. A religious procession that starts out from Lolita Tizol Street and moves toward the city's Catholic church, led by mariachis singing songs to honor Our Lady of Guadalupe, the city's patron saint. The lead song is the traditional Mexican birthday song, Las Mañanitas. There's a 6am Mass. For more information, contact Ponce City Hall (tel. 787/284-4141). December 12.

Lighting of the Town of Bethlehem, between San Cristóbal Fort and Plaza San Juan Bautista in Old San Juan. This is the time that the most dazzling Christmas lights go on, and many islanders themselves drive into San Juan to see this dramatic lighting, the finest display of lights in the Caribbean at Christmas. During the Christmas season. (Visit www.sanjuan.pr for information on days and times.)

Hatillo Masks Festival, Hatillo. This tradition, celebrated since 1823, represents the biblical story of King Herod's ordering the death of all infant boys in an attempt to kill the baby Jesus. Men with colorful masks and costumes represent the soldiers, who run or ride through the town from early morning, looking for the children. There are food, music, and crafts exhibits in the town square. For more information, call tel. 787/898-4040. December 28.

Year-Round Festivals

In addition to the individual events described above, Puerto Rico has two yearlong series of special events.

Many of Puerto Rico's most popular events are during the Patron Saint Festivals (fiestas patronales) in honor of the patron saint of each municipality. The festivities, held in each town's central plaza, include religious and costumed processions, games, local food, music, and dance.

At Festival La Casita, prominent Puerto Rican musicians, dance troupes, and orchestras perform; puppet shows are staged; and painters and sculptors display their works. It happens every Saturday at Puerto Rico Tourism's La "Casita" Tourism Information Center, Plaza Darsenas, across from Pier 1, Old San Juan.

For more information about all these events, contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company (tel. 800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400), La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Getting Around

By Plane

Seaborne moved its home base to San Juan, Puerto Rico from St. Croix in 2014 as it began an expansion of services throughout the Caribbean, serving 16 airports and expanding its aircraft fleet to 21, including 16 34-seat Saab 340Bs, including the Dominican Republic, Dominica, Guadeloupe, St. Kitts & Nevis, Tortola, Martinique, Virgin Gorda, St. Maarten and the U.S. Virgin Islands. It’s filling the void left by the exit of American Eagle from the Caribbean market. Cape Air (tel. 800/CAPE-AIR [227-3247]; www.flycapeair.com) flies from Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport to Culebra, Mayagüez, and Vieques several times a day. They also offer many flights daily to St. Thomas, St. Croix, Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Nevis and Anguilla. Vieques Air Link (tel. 888/901-9247 or 787/741-8331; www.viequesairlink.com) and Air Flamenco (tel. 787/724-1818, 724-1105, or 721-0332; www.airflamenco.net) offer several daily flights between San Juan, Ceiba and the island towns of Viequs and Culebra. They also provide service to nearby U.S. Virgin Islands.

By Rental Car

There is good news and bad news about driving in Puerto Rico. First, the good news: Puerto Rico offers some of the most scenic drives in all the Caribbean.

Of course, if you want to stay only in San Juan, having a car is not necessary. You can get around San Juan on foot or by bus, taxi, and in some cases, hotel minivan.

Now the bad news: Renting a car and driving in Puerto Rico, depending on the routes you take, can lead to a number of frustrating experiences, as our readers relate to us year after year. These readers point out that local drivers are often reckless, as evidenced by the number of fenders with bashed-in sides. The older coastal highways provide the most scenic routes but are often congested. Some of the roads, especially in the mountainous interior, are just too narrow for automobiles. If you do rent a car, proceed with caution along these poorly paved and maintained roads, which most often follow circuitous routes. Cliffslides or landslides are not uncommon.

Some local agencies may tempt you with special reduced prices. But if you're planning to tour the island by car, you won't find any local branches that will help you if you experience trouble. And some of the agencies widely advertising low-cost deals won't take credit cards and want cash in advance. Also, watch out for hidden extra costs, which sometimes proliferate among the smaller and not very well-known firms, and difficulties connected with resolving insurance claims.

If you do rent a vehicle, it's best to stick with the old reliables: Avis, Budget, or Hertz. Each of these companies offers minivan transport to its office and car depot. Be alert to the minimum-age requirements for car rentals in Puerto Rico. Both Avis and Hertz require that renters be 25 or older; at Budget, renters must be 21 or older, but those between the ages of 21 and 24 pay a $10 to $25 daily surcharge to the agreed-upon rental fee.

Added security comes from an antitheft double-locking mechanism that has been installed in most of the rental cars available in Puerto Rico. Car theft is common in Puerto Rico, so extra precautions are always needed.

Distances are often posted in kilometers rather than miles (1km = 0.62 mile), but speed limits are displayed in miles per hour.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental. Note: In Puerto Rico, gasoline is sold by the liter, not by the gallon. The cost of gasoline is often somewhat cheaper than in the United States. Current prices are hovering around 75¢ a liter (3.78 of which make up a gallon).

By Public Transportation

Cars and minibuses known as públicos provide low-cost transportation around the island. Their license plates have the letters "P" or "PD" following the numbers. They serve all the main towns of Puerto Rico; passengers are let off and picked up along the way, both at designated stops and when someone flags them down. Rates are set by the Public Service Commission. Públicos usually operate during daylight hours, departing from the main plaza (central square) of a town.

Information about público routes between San Juan and Mayagüez is available at Lineas Sultana, Calle Esteban González 898, Urbanización Santa Rita, Río Piedras (tel. 787/765-9377). Information about público routes between San Juan and Ponce is available from Choferes Unidos de Ponce, Terminal de Carros Públicos, Calle Vive in Ponce (tel. 787/764-0540). There are several operators listed under Lineas de Carros in the local Yellow Pages.

Fares vary according to whether the público will make a detour to pick up or drop off a passenger at a specific locale. (If you want to deviate from the predetermined routes, you'll pay more than if you wait for a público beside the main highway.) Fares from San Juan to Mayagüez range from $20 to $40; from San Juan to Ponce, from $20 to $40. Be warned that although prices of públicos are low, the routes are slow, with frequent stops, often erratic routing, and lots of inconvenience.

Getting around San Juan is getting easier all the time. You have two local bus lines, a publíco system that covers the entire metro area, the Tren Urbano, a light urban rail system connecting Santurce with the Hato Rey financial district, the university and medical center districts, and important suburban locations in Bayamón and Guaynabo. Tren Urbano riders can transfer free to city buses and vice versa.

So if you are staying in San Juan, having a car is not necessary. You can get around San Juan on foot or by bus, taxi, and in some cases, hotel minivan. The Tren Urban, a light rail system connecting Santurce to the financial, university and medical districts, and important suburban destinations in Bayamón and Guaynabo, is a great ride. Prices were slashed in half to put it at par with public buses, and riders can transfer into the bus system free of charge. The integration is aimed at increasing ridership throughout the system.

The train and accompanying buses cover virtually all of San Juan. They keep special expanded schedules during big events, such as a festival in Old San Juan, and also for when big acts play at the Puerto Rico Coliseum, or the Tourism Company throws a New Year's Eve party at the Convention Center. For more information, call tel. 866/900-1284, or log onto www.ati.gobierno.pr.

Taxis are also reasonably priced and work late into the evening in the city's major districts. So they are your go-to option for a night of clubbing or to get home after a late night.

Visitor Information

For information before you leave home, visit www.gotopuertorico.com or contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company offices at La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902 (tel. 800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400).

Other Tourism Company offices are located at Luís Muñoz Marín Airport (tel. 787/791-1014), open December to April daily from 9am to 10pm, May to November daily 9am to 8pm; and La Casita, at Plaza de la Darsena, Old San Juan, near Pier 1, where the cruise ships come in (tel. 787/722-1709). This office is open Saturday through Wednesday from 8:30am to 8pm, Thursday and Friday 8:30am to 5pm.

There are several tourism-related websites on Puerto Rico. Some of the best are dedicated to specific areas: The Tourism Association of Rincón (www.rincon.org), Insider's Guide to South Puerto Rico (www.letsgotoponce.com), Enchanted Isles (www.enchanted-isle.com) and Discover Culebra (www.culebra-island.com). Puerto Rico Travel Maps (www.travelmaps.com) offers useful interactive and downloadable travel maps, while EyeTour Puerto Rico (http://places.eyetour.com) offers travel videos of sites, attractions, hotels, and restaurants. Ask for a copy of Qué Pasa, the official visitors' guide, which is distributed free at many hotels and restaurants. Bienvenidos, a publication of the Puerto Rico Hotel & Tourism Association, is also chock-full of up-to-date visitor information and is also distributed free at island hotels.

You might also want to contact the U.S. Department of State for regional background bulletins, which supply up-to-date information on crime, health concerns, import restrictions, and other travel matters. Write to the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402 (tel. 866/512-1800 or 202/512-1800).

A good travel agent can be a source of information. Make sure your agent is a member of the American Society of Travel Agents (ASTA). If you get poor service from an ASTA agent, you can write to the ASTA -- The American Society of Travel Agents -- at 1101 King St., Alexandria, VA 22314 (tel. 703/739-2782; www.astanet.com).

Cruises

Miami is the cruise capital of the world, but San Juan is second. Unless you have never visited Miami and would like to include it as part of your extended Caribbean itinerary, there is justification in flying directly to San Juan by plane and beginning your cruise here. It puts you immediately in the Caribbean, which means you save a 2-day ocean voyage just to get here. Instead of sailing from Florida, you can spend the time getting to know Puerto Rico.

Consult a good travel agent for the latest offerings. Some of the most likely contenders include the following: Ambassador Tours, 50 First St., Suite 610, San Francisco, CA 94104 (tel. 800/989-9000 or 415/357-9876; www.ambassadortours.com); Cruises One, 1415 NW 62 St., Suite 205, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 (tel. 800/832-3592 or 954/958-3700; www.cruiseone.com); Cruises of Distinction, 4557 Woodward Ave., Bloomfield Hills, MI 48304 (tel. 800/634-3445); Cruises Only, 1011 E. Colonial Dr., Orlando, FL 32808 (tel. 800/242-9000 or 407/898-5353; www.cruisesonly.com); Kelly Cruises, 1315 W. 22nd St., Suite 105, Oak Brook, IL 60521 (tel. 800/837-7447 or 630/990-1111; www.kellycruises.com); and Hartford Holidays Travel, 129 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, NY 11596 (tel. 800/828-4813 or 516/746-6670; www.hartfordholidays.com). Any of these providers stay tuned to last-minute price wars brewing among such megacarriers as Carnival, Princess, Royal Caribbean, and Holland America, as well as such low-budget contenders as Premier.

Vacations to Go, 1502 Augusta Dr., Suite 415, Houston, TX 77057 (tel. 800/338-4962 or 713/974-2121; www.vacationstogo.com), provides catalogs and information on discount cruises through the Caribbean, as well as the Atlantic and Mediterranean.

The Cruise Lines

Here's a brief rundown of some of the cruise lines that serve San Juan and the Caribbean. For detailed information, pick up a copy of one of our companion guides in this series, Frommer's Caribbean Cruises and Ports of Call, Frommer's Caribbean Ports of Call, or Unofficial Guide to Cruises.

• Carnival Cruise Lines (tel. 888/CARNIVAL, or 305/599-2200; www.carnival.com), a specialist in the maintenance of some of the biggest and most brightly decorated ships afloat, is the richest, boldest, brashest, and most successful mass-market cruise line in the world. Many of its vessels depart from Florida area or Caribbean ports -- including San Juan, Galveston, Miami, and Tampa -- as well as New York. If you prefer to depart from one of the ports of Florida (especially Miami), know in advance that many of the company's cruises make San Juan a focal point of their stopovers. Most of the company's Caribbean cruises offer good value, last between 4 and 8 days, and feature nonstop activities, lots of glitter, and the hustle and bustle of armies of clients and crew members embarking and disembarking at every port.
• Celebrity Cruises (tel. 800/647-2251 or 800/722-5941; www.celebrity.com) maintains eight medium-to-large ships offering cruises of between 7 and 10 nights to such ports as Key West; Grand Cayman; St. Thomas; Aruba, St. Lucia; and Cozumel, Mexico, among others. Passengers interested in maximum exposure to Puerto Rico usually opt to cruise aboard Galaxy, a 77,713-ton megaship that's based (Dec-Mar) in San Juan, and which embarks every week throughout the year for tours to such southern Caribbean islands as Barbados, St. Kitts, and Aruba.

  Despite a merger of Celebrity with the larger and better-financed Royal Caribbean International, Celebrity maintains its own identity and corporate structure within the larger framework. The niche this line has created is unpretentious but classy, several notches above mass market, but with pricing that's nonetheless relatively competitive.

• Costa Cruise Lines (tel. 800/462-6782 or 954/266-5600; www.costacruises.com), the U.S.-based branch of an Italian cruise line that has thrived for about a century, maintains hefty-to-megasize vessels that are newer than those of many other lines afloat. Two of these offer virtually identical jaunts through the western and eastern Caribbean on alternate weeks, each of them departing from Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Ports of call during the eastern Caribbean itineraries of both vessels include a stopover in San Juan, followed by visits to St. Thomas, Catalina Island (a private island off the coast of the Dominican Republic known for its beaches), and Cozumel. There is an Italian flavor and lots of Italian design onboard here, and an atmosphere of relaxed indulgence.
• Princess Cruises (tel. 800/PRINCESS; www.princess.com) has a large and far-flung fleet that totals 12 mega-vessels. The ships cruise at various times of the year through Caribbean and Bahamian waters, sometimes with stops at San Juan as part of the itinerary. The Sun Princess sails from Fort Lauderdale on round-trip 10-night cruises that variously cover the eastern and the south Caribbean. Princess is one of the very few lines in the world to offer luxury accommodations and upscale service as a standard feature aboard its megaships. These usually carry a smaller number of passengers than similarly sized vessels on less elegant lines. The company's clientele is upscale, with an average passenger age of 55 or over. A respectable percentage of the staff is British.
• Radisson Seven Seas Cruises (tel. 800/285-1835 or 954/776-6123; www.rssc.com) is noted for the level of glamour and prestige that permeates its cruises. It sends all three of its ships -- the Seven Seas Mariner, Seven Seas Voyager, and Seven Seas Navigator -- into the Caribbean on a regular basis. The Mariner, carrying 700 passengers, is an all-suite vessel, and the Navigator carries 490 passengers on luxe cruises. The Voyager is a newer version of the all-suite Mariner. Cruises are relatively expensive compared to those offered by less prestigious lines, and roam freely, with less allegiance to a fixed home port than many other vessels.
• Royal Caribbean International (tel. 800/327-6700 or 305/539-6000; www.royalcaribbean.com) leads the industry in the development of megaships. Marketed as a mainstream mass-market cruise line whose components have been fine-tuned through endless repetition, the line encourages a restrained house-party theme that's somehow a bit less frenetic than that found aboard the more raucous megaships of other cruise lines, including Carnival. Using either Florida ports or San Juan as their home port, RCI ships call regularly at such oft-visited ports as St. Thomas, Ocho Rios, Sint Maarten, Grand Cayman, St. Croix, and Curaçao. Most of the company's cruises last for 4 to 7 days. If Puerto Rico is the focal point of your itinerary, your best bet is Adventure of the Seas or Serenade of the Seas, offering 7-night cruises through the southern and eastern Caribbean regions, using San Juan as a base. Royal Caribbean is the only cruise line in the business that owns, outright, two tropical beaches (one in The Bahamas, the other along an isolated peninsula in northern Haiti), whose sands and watersports facilities are the focus of many of the company's Caribbean cruises.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Puerto Rico has two area codes: the more common 787 and the newer 939. The codes are not geographic specific. For all calls on the island, the area code must be used.

Banks -- Offices are generally open 9am to 5pm Monday through Friday, but most institutions are open Saturday for at least a half day. Stores are generally open from 9am to either 7pm or 9pm Monday through Saturday and Sunday 11am through 6pm. Most malls and big box retailers are open 9am to 9pm Monday to Saturday, 11am to 7pm on Sundays. Normal banking hours are 8am to 4pm or 9am-5pm Monday through Friday and 8:30am to noon on Saturday. Most banks have some branches with extended hours, open all day Saturday and on Sundays from 11 to 4pm, as well as extended evening hours to 6pm.

Business Hours -- Offices are generally open 9am to 5pm Monday through Friday, but most institutions are open Saturday for at least a half day. Stores are generally open from 9am to 6pm or 1am to 7pm Monday through Saturday, Sunday 11am through 6pm. Most malls and big box retailers are open 9am to 9pm Monday to Saturday, 11am to 7pm on Sundays.

Doctors -- Hotels will be able to recommend a good doctor, which are listed under “medicos” in the telephone directory. There are also several hospitals and other healthcare facilities in San Juan that have medical staff on site around the clock. Also see “Hospitals,” later in this section.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Other than the lower drinking age, Puerto Rico treats drinking and driving as seriously as most other U.S. states.

Drugs -- A branch of the Federal Narcotics Strike Force is permanently stationed on Puerto Rico, where illegal drugs and narcotics are a problem. Convictions for possession of marijuana can bring severe penalties, ranging from 2 to 10 years in prison for a first offense. Possession of hard drugs, such as cocaine or heroin, can lead to 15 years or more in prison.

Drugstores -- It's a good idea to carry enough prescription medications with you to last the duration of your stay. If you're going into the hinterlands, take along the medicines you'll need. If you need any additional medications, you'll find many drugstores in San Juan and other leading cities. One of the most centrally located pharmacies is Walgreens, 1130 Ashford Ave., Condado (tel. 787/725-1510), open 24 hours. There is at least one 24-hour Walgreens in every tourist district (Condado, Old San Juan, and Isla Verde), and they are linked with the U.S. chain for prescriptions. There are also locations throughout the island in major cities and shopping malls. Another option is the Puerto Rico Drug Co., Calle San Francisco 157 (tel. 787/725-2202), in Old San Juan, which is open daily from 7:30am to 9:30pm.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- Because Puerto Rico is part of the United States, there is no U.S. embassy or consulate. Instead, there are branches of all the principal U.S. federal agencies. Foreign governments have no embassies here, as Puerto Rico is part of the United States. A number of governments, however, have honorary consulates on the island. Britain has a consulate at Av. Chardón 350 (tel. 787/758-9828) in Hato Rey, while the Canada consulate is at Av. Ponce de León 268 (tel. 787/759-6629).

All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212), or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; http://australia.visahq.com). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- In an emergency, dial tel. 911. Or call the local police (tel. 787/343-2020), fire department (tel. 787/722-1120), or emergency medical corps (tel. 787/775-0550).

 Family Travel -- Puerto Rico is an extremely family-friendly travel destination. Nearly all resorts court parents traveling with children as guests. In only a few cases did my own family find that not true of restaurants and lodgings, and I’ve pointed those out. To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, look for the “Kids” icon throughout this guide.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Gas prices on the island are listed in liters and are currently hovering around 76¢ per liter for regular.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012). Puerto Rico holds its elections at the same time. In addition, the island also celebrates several important local holidays, such as July 25, the anniversary of the Puerto Rico constitution and the birth of its commonwealth political status.

Hospitals -- In a medical emergency, call tel. 911. Ashford Presbyterian Community Hospital, Av. Ashford 1451, San Juan (tel. 787/721-2160), maintains 24-hour emergency service and is the most convenient to the major tourism districts. Another option is Pavia Hospital, 1462 C. Asia, Santurce (tel. 787/727-6060). Service is also provided at Clinica Las Americas, Franklin Delano Roosevelt Ave. 400, Hato Rey (tel. 787/765-1919), and at Puerto Rico Medical Center, Av. Americo Miranda, Río Piedras (tel. 787/777-3535).

Insurance -- If you are considering buying travel insurance, expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Permissible reasons for trip cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters. In this unstable world, trip-cancellation insurance is a good buy if you're purchasing tickets well in advance -- who knows what the state of the world, or of your airline, will be in 9 months? Insurance policy details vary, so read the fine print and make sure that your airline or cruise line is on the list of carriers covered in case of bankruptcy. A good resource is "Travel Guard Alerts," a list of companies considered high-risk by Travel Guard International. Protect yourself further by paying for the insurance with a credit card -- by law, consumers can get their money back on goods and services not received, if they report the loss within 60 days after the charge is listed on their credit card statement.

For more information, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Language -- English is understood at the big resorts and in most of San Juan. Out in the island, Spanish is still numero uno.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here, the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in Puerto Rico, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Police -- In an emergency, dial tel. 911. Or call the local police (tel. 787/726-7020), fire department (tel. 787/725-3444), or medical emergency line (tel. 787/754-2550).

Smoking -- Stringent antismoking regulations have been passed banning smoking in all public areas, including restaurants, bars, casinos, and hotel rooms. Enforcement, however, is less strict here than in other areas in the United States. Smoking is even banned at outdoor cafes that are serviced by waiters or waitresses, but this prohibition is often overlooked.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. Puerto Rico levies a 7% sales and use tax on most major goods and services. All hotel rooms on Puerto Rico are subject to a 9% to 11% tax.

Time -- Puerto Rico is in the Atlantic Time Zone, which is 1 hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time (EST), and identical to Eastern Daylight Time (EDT). When the U.S. East Coast is on daylight time, EDT, there is no time difference. The continental United States also contains Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST), which range from 1 to 3 hours behind EST. San Juan time is normally 4 hours ahead of Los Angeles, but only 3 hours during EDT.

Daylight saving time runs from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most Puerto Rico Cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Public beaches, called balnearios, run by the commonwealth's National Parks or by municipal governments, have restroom, shower, and changing facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Water -- Although tap water is said to be safe to drink, many visitors experience diarrhea, even if they follow the usual precautions. It's best to stick to bottled water. The illness usually passes quickly without medication if you eat simply prepared food and drink only mineral water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.

Escorted & Package Tours

Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you might want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package such as an escorted tour or a package tour. What you lose in adventure, you'll gain in time and money saved when you book accommodations, and maybe even food and entertainment, along with your flight.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Also consult Vacation Together (tel. 877/444-4547; www.vacationtogether.com), which allows you to search for and book packages offered by a number of tour operators and airlines. The United States Tour Operators Association's website (www.ustoa.com) has a search engine that allows you to look for operators that offer packages to a specific destination.

Travel packages are also listed on major Internet travel sites and in the travel section of the local Sunday newspaper. Liberty Travel (tel. 888/271-1584; www.libertytravel.com), one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast, is a bigger advertiser in print and other media, but it's website typically has at least a half dozen deals to the island at any given time.

TourScan Caribbean Vacations (tel. 800/962-2080; www.tourscan.com) finds the best deals from the 10,000 vacation offers its Caribbean travel experts analyze. You can see some results online.

Food & Wine Trips

There is no organized culinary trip per se, but you could choose to visit during one of the annual food festivals such as Old San Juan SoFo Culinary Fest (in June; visit www.tastecuisine.net), when restaurants on and near South Fortaleza Street open up their doors for sampling; or Saborea (in early April; visit www.saboreapuertorico.com), a culinary party of restaurant booths and Food Network chef demos set up along Escambrón Beach.

Also see the Flavors of San Juan noshing tour in Old San Juan (tel. 787/964-2447; www.flavorsofsanjuan.com).

Escorted General-Interest Tours

An escorted tour is a structured group tour with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotel, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Puerto Rico Tours, Condo Inter-Suite, Ste. 5M, on Isla Verde in San Juan (tel. 787/306-1540 or 787/791-5479; www.puertoricotours.com), offers specially conducted private sightseeing tours of Puerto Rico, including trips to the rainforest, Luquillo Beach, the caves of Camuy, and other attractions, such as a restored Taíno Indian village.

Backstage Partners (tel. 787/791-0099; www.backstagepartners.com) offers customized tours that take in a wide range of island attractions, including eco-tours, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving and snorkeling, safaris, and golf packages.

Other leading escorted tour operators include Atlantic San Juan Tours (tel. 787/644-9841; www.puertoricoexcursions.com), which helps you take in all the major sights of the island from Ponce to El Yunque; and Sunshine Tours (tel. 866/785-3636; www.puerto-rico-sunshinetours.com), which covers much the same ground as the others. Legends of Puerto Rico (tel. 787/605-9060; www.legendsofpr.com) hosts personalized tours, specializing in entertaining cultural and nature adventure tours.

When to Go

Climate

Puerto Rico has one of the most unvarying climates in the world. Temperatures year-round range from 75°F to 85°F (24°C–29°C). The island is wettest and hottest in August, averaging 81°F (27°C) and 7 inches (18cm) of rain. San Juan and the northern coast seem to be cooler and wetter than Ponce and the southern coast. The coldest weather is in the high altitudes of the Cordillera, the site of Puerto Rico's lowest recorded temperature, 39°F (4°C).

Hurricane Season: Hurricane season, the curse of Puerto Rican weather, lasts—officially, at least—from June 1 to November 30. But there's no cause for panic. In general, satellite forecasts give adequate warnings so that precautions can be taken. Historically, the peaks of the season, when the most damaging storms are formed and hit the island, occur in August and December.

If you're heading to Puerto Rico during hurricane season, monitor forecasts made by the National Weather Service and the Weather Channel.

Peak Season

In Puerto Rico, hotels charge their highest prices during the peak winter period from mid-December to mid-April, when visitors fleeing from cold northern climates flock to the Caribbean. Winter is the driest season along the coasts but can be wet in mountainous areas.

If you plan to travel in the winter, make reservations 2 to 3 months in advance. At certain hotels it's almost impossible to book accommodations for Christmas and the month of February.

A second tourism high season, especially for hotels and destinations outside San Juan, takes place in July, when most islanders take vacation.

Saving Money in the Off-Season: While winter rates tend to be higher than summer rates at most properties, Puerto Rico's climate makes it inviting year-round.

However, there still is an off-season, running roughly from May through November, when temperatures in the mid-80s (around 29°C) prevail throughout most of the region. Trade winds ensure comfortable days and nights, even without air-conditioning. Although the noonday sun may raise the temperature to around 90°F (32°C), cool breezes usually make the morning, late afternoon, and evening more comfortable here than in many parts of the U.S. mainland.

Dollar for dollar, you'll spend less money by renting a summer house or fully equipped unit in Puerto Rico than you would on Cape Cod, Fire Island, Laguna Beach, or the coast of Maine.

Many hotels, particularly outside of San Juan, will charge full price during the month of July and on summer holiday weekends. Some properties, particularly guesthouses and small hotels in vacation towns such as Vieques and Rincón, have dispensed with off-season pricing altogether.

In San Juan, a trend among smaller properties is to charge higher rates on weekends and holidays than during the week, rather than following seasonal fluctuations in price.

Other Off-Season Advantages: Although Puerto Rico may appear inviting in the winter to those who live in northern climates, there are many reasons your trip may be more enjoyable in the off-season:

• After the winter hordes have left, a less hurried way of life prevails. You'll have a better chance to appreciate the food, culture, and local customs.

• Swimming pools and beaches are less crowded—perhaps not crowded at all. Again, some areas will be extremely crowded in July and on summer holiday weekends.

• Year-round resort facilities are offered, often at reduced rates, which may include snorkeling, boating, and scuba diving.

• To survive, resort boutiques often feature summer sales to clear the merchandise they didn't sell in February to accommodate stock they've ordered for the coming winter.

• You can often appear without a reservation at a top restaurant and get a table for dinner. Also, when waiters are less hurried, you get better service.

• The endless waiting game is over: no waiting for a rental car (only to be told none is available), no long wait for a golf course tee time, and quicker access to tennis courts and watersports.
  
  
• Accommodations and flights are easier to book.

• Summer is an excellent time for family travel because kids are out of school.

Off-Season Disadvantages:

• You might be staying at a construction site. Hoteliers save their serious repairs and major renovations for the off-season, when they have fewer clients. That means you might wake up early in the morning to the sound of a hammer.
• Services are often reduced. In the peak of winter, everything is fully operational. But in summer, many of the programs, such as watersports rentals, might be curtailed. Also, not all restaurants and bars are fully operational at all resorts. For example, for lack of business, certain gourmet or specialty dining rooms might be shut down until house count merits reopening them.

Holidays

Puerto Rico has many public holidays when stores, offices, and schools are closed: New Year's Day, January 6 (Three Kings Day), Presidents Day, Good Friday, Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, Thanksgiving, Veterans Day, and Christmas, plus local holidays such as Constitution Day (July 25) and Discovery Day (Nov 19). Remember, U.S. federal holidays are holidays in Puerto Rico, too.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there today than ever before.

The Americans with Disabilities Act is enforced as strictly in Puerto Rico as it is on the U.S. mainland -- in fact, a telling example of the act's enforcement can be found in Ponce, where the sightseeing trolleys are equipped with ramps and extra balustrades to accommodate travelers with disabilities. Unfortunately, hotels rarely give much publicity to the facilities they offer persons with disabilities, so it's always wise to contact the hotel directly, in advance, if you need special facilities. Tourist offices usually have little data about such matters.

You can obtain a free copy of Air Transportation of Handicapped Persons, published by the U.S. Department of Transportation. Write for Free Advisory Circular No. AC12032, Distribution Unit, U.S. Department of Transportation, Publications Division, 3341Q 75 Ave., Landover, MD 20785. No phone requests are accepted, but you can write for a copy of the publication or download it for free at http://isddc.dot.gov.

The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Access Passport that gives free lifetime entrance to U.S. national parks, including those in Puerto Rico, for persons who are blind or have permanent disabilities, regardless of age. You can pick up a Golden Access Passport at any NPS entrance-fee area by showing proof of medically determined disability and eligibility for receiving benefits under federal law. Besides free entry, the Golden Access Passport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (800/CALL-MOSS [800/225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs; and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org; annual membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services. AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals, in case of an emergency, for $195 a year ($295 per family), among other benefits.

For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, the community website iCan (www.icanonline.net) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com; $14.95 per year, $19.95 outside the U.S.); and Open World magazine, published by SATH (subscription: $13 per year, $21 outside the U.S.).

A tip for British travelers: The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR), Unit 12, City Forum, 250 City Rd., London, EC1V 8AF (tel. 020/7250-3222; fax 020/7250-0212; www.radar.org.uk), publishes information for travelers with disabilities.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

Major carriers with a presence in the U.S, market, such as AT&T, Sprint, and T-Mobile, also battle it out in the island's competitive wireless market. Prices are low, and coverage is very good, even out at sea. Each carrier maintains a network and all are investing in network upgrades, with AT&T out front in the race for a 4-G network, and all are GSM networks.

Check with your carrier to see if Puerto Rico is included in national calling plans, which usually offer unlimited calling and roaming. Puerto Rico subscribers of all major carriers have the option of enrolling in a national calling plan that includes calls and free roaming to the United States mainland.

Calls can also be placed through Skype and other VoIP services via the Internet.

If your company screws you, cellular telephones can be purchased at RadioShack, Walgreens, and other stores listed throughout the guide. They come loaded with minutes and can be used on the spot and cost as little as $35. Refill cards are sold everywhere, from major grocery stores to gas stations.

Internet & E-Mail

Free Wi-Fi connections are widely available, from Old San Juan's Plaza de Armas, to Starbucks to local Burger King and McDonald's outlets throughout the island.

Many hotels and guesthouses also have public computers for use by guests, and there are Internet cafes throughout the city (such as the Cybernet Café, www.cybernetcafepr.com, with locations at Av. Isla Verde 5980, Isla Verde, and Av. Ashford 1128, Condado). Public libraries also have Internet areas.

If you have a laptop, free Wi-Fi spots abound at shopping centers, hotels, and restaurants.

Newspapers & Magazines

Caribbean Business (www.caribbeanbusinesspr.com) is a weekly business newspaper that has the most up-to-date news on Puerto Rico in English.

The San Juan Star, a daily English-language newspaper, closed abruptly in the summer of 2008, just over its 50th birthday. A worker's collective of former Star employees puts out the Puerto Rico Daily Sun (www.prdailysun.net).

USA Today sells a local edition of its newspaper, with two pages of local and tourism news. If you read Spanish, you might enjoy El Nuevo Día, the most popular local tabloid. There is also El Vocero and Primera Hora. Few significant magazines are published on Puerto Rico, but Time and Newsweek are available at most newsstands.

Telephones

Many convenience, grocery, and retail postal service stores sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be expensive -- charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance (Information), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many Puerto Rican hotels offer discounts for seniors.

Though much of the island's sporting and nightlife activity is geared toward youthful travelers, Puerto Rico also has much to offer the senior. The best source of information for seniors is the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, or, if you're staying in a large resort hotel, talk to the activities director or the concierge.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 or older can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Age Passport that gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to U.S. national parks for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, a Golden Age Passport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, click onto www.nps.gov, or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Grand Circle Travel (tel. 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; fax 617/346-6700; www.gct.com) offers package deals for the 50-plus market, mostly of the tour-bus variety, with free trips thrown in for those who organize groups of 10 or more.

SAGA Holidays (tel. 800/343-0273; http://travel.saga.co.uk/holidays.aspx) offers tours and cruises for those 50 and older. SAGA also offers a number of single-traveler tours.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (tel. 800/221-2610 or 800/959-0405; www.gct.com); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website, such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic, to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Currency -- The U.S. dollar is the coin of the realm. Keep in mind that once you leave Ponce or San Juan, you might have difficulty finding a place to exchange foreign money (unless you're staying at a large resort), so it's wise to handle your exchange needs before you head off into rural parts of Puerto Rico.

ATMs

ATMs are linked to a network that most likely includes your bank at home. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) are the two most popular networks in the U.S.; call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your four-digit PIN before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw away from home; it's therefore best to call your credit card company before you leave and let them know where you're going and how much you plan to spend. You'll get the best exchange rate if you withdraw money from an ATM, but keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at an ATM in a different city or bank. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee.

Currency Exchange

There is a currency exchange at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport and at large bank branches such as Banco Popular.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Even given the fees you'll pay for ATM use at banks other than your own, it is still probably a better bet than traveler's checks.

You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler's checks over the phone by calling tel. 800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee.

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks, minimum of $300 up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are invaluable when you're traveling. They are a safe way to carry money and provide a convenient record of all your expenses. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at any bank (though you'll start paying hefty interest on the advance the moment you receive the cash). At most banks, you don't even need to go to a teller; you can get a cash advance at the ATM if you know your PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the card issuer to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or pass some other security clearance test.

In San Juan and at all the big resorts on the island, even some of the smaller inns, credit cards are commonly accepted. Moreover, an incredible array of establishments accept payment with ATM cards. However, as you tour through rural areas and if you intend to patronize small, out-of-the-way establishments, it's still wise to carry sufficient greenbacks for emergencies. Visa and MasterCard are accepted most widely throughout Puerto Rico.

Tips on Accommodations

Hotels & Resorts

There is no rigid classification of Puerto Rican hotels. The word "deluxe" is often used -- or misused -- when "first class" might be a more appropriate term. We've presented fairly detailed descriptions of the hotels in this guide, so you'll get an idea of what to expect once you're there.

Puerto Rico has had a bum rap for bad service, but our experience is that service in hotels and restaurants has been on a dramatic upswing over the last decade. There is still the slow tropical pace, what folks mean when they talk about "island time," however.

Ask detailed questions when booking a room. Entertainment in Puerto Rico is often alfresco, so light sleepers obviously won't want a room directly over a band. In general, back rooms cost less than oceanfront rooms, and lower rooms cost less than upper-floor units. Always ascertain whether transfers (which can be expensive) are included. And make sure that you know exactly what is free and what costs money. Some resorts seem to charge every time you breathe and might end up costing more than a deluxe hotel that includes most everything in the price.

Also factor in transportation costs, which can mount quickly if you stay 5 days to a week. If you want to go to the beach every day, it might be wise to book a hotel on the Condado and not stay in romantic Old San Juan, from which you'll spend a lot of time and money transferring back and forth between your hotel and the beach.

Most hotels in Puerto Rico are on the windward side of the island, with lots of waves, undertow, and surf. If a glasslike smooth sea is imperative for your stay, you can book on the leeward (eastern shore) or Caribbean (southeast coast) sides, which are better for snorkeling. The major centers in these areas are the resort complex of Palmas del Mar and the "second city" of Ponce.

MAP vs. AP, or Do You Want EP or CP? -- All resorts offer a European Plan (EP) rate, which means you pay for the price of a room. That leaves you free to dine around at night at various other resorts or restaurants without restriction. Another plan preferred by many is the Continental Plan (CP), which means you get your room and a continental breakfast of juice, coffee, bread, jam, and so on, included in a set price. This plan is preferred by many because most guests don't like to "dine around" at breakfast time.

Another major option is the Modified American Plan (MAP), which includes breakfast and one main meal of the day, either lunch or dinner. The final choice is the American Plan (AP), which includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

At certain resorts you will save money by booking either the MAP or AP because discounts are granted. If you dine a la carte for lunch and dinner at various restaurants, your final dining bill will no doubt be much higher than if you stayed on the MAP or AP.

These plans might save you money, but if, as part of your holiday, you like to eat in various places, you might be disappointed. You face the same dining room every night, unless the resort you're staying at has many different restaurants on the dining plan. Often they don't. Many resorts have a lot of specialty restaurants, serving, say, Japanese cuisine, but these more expensive restaurants are not included in MAP or AP; rather, they charge a la carte prices. One option is to ask if your hotel has a dine-around plan.

Puerto Rican Guesthouses

A unique type of accommodation is the guesthouse, where Puerto Ricans themselves usually stay when they travel. Ranging in size from 7 to 25 rooms, they offer a familial atmosphere. Many are on or near the beach; some have pools or sun decks, and a number serve meals.

In Puerto Rico, however, the term "guesthouse" has many meanings. Some guesthouses are like simple motels built around pools. Others have small individual cottages with their own kitchenettes, constructed around a main building in which you'll often find a bar and a restaurant serving local food. Some are surprisingly comfortable, often with private bathrooms and swimming pools. You may or may not have air-conditioning. The rooms are sometimes cooled by ceiling fans or by the trade winds blowing through open windows at night.

For value, the guesthouse can't be topped. If you stay at a guesthouse, you can journey over to a big beach resort and use its seaside facilities for only a small fee. Although bereft of frills, the guesthouses we've recommended are clean and safe for families or single women. However, the cheapest ones are not places where you'd want to spend a lot of time because of their modest furnishings.

For further information on guesthouses, contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company (tel. 800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400), La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902.

Paradores

In an effort to lure travelers beyond the hotels and casinos of San Juan's historic district to the tranquil natural beauty of the island's countryside, the Puerto Rico Tourism Company offers paradores puertorriqueños (charming country inns), which are comfortable bases for exploring the island's varied attractions. Vacationers seeking a peaceful idyll can also choose from several privately owned and operated guesthouses.

Using Spain's parador system as a model, the Puerto Rico Tourism Company established the paradores in 1973 to encourage tourism across the island. Each of the paradores is situated in a historic place or site of unusual scenic beauty and must meet high standards of service and cleanliness. Some of the paradores are located in the mountains and others by the sea. Most have pools, and all offer excellent Puerto Rican cuisine. Many are within easy driving distance of San Juan.

Properties must meet certain benchmark standards of quality to be admitted to the program, so tourists feel comfortable staying at the property. One complaint about the program is that variances in quality still range widely from one property to the next. For more information, call tel. 800/866-7827 or check out www.gotoparadores.com.

Some of the best paradores are in western Puerto Rico. The Tourism Company also operates a similar program which promotes worthy local restaurants called Mesones Gastronómicos (tel. 800/981-7575).

Villas & Vacation Homes

There are also excellent vacation homes in resort communities such as Rincón and Vieques. For luxurious Old San Juan apartment rentals, check Vida Urbana, Calle Cruz 255, Old San Juan, PR 00901 (tel. 787/587-3031; www.vidaurbanapr.com). Two short-term specialists in Condado and Isla Verde are San Juan Vacations, Cond. Marbella del Caribe, Ste. S-5, Isla Verde 00979 (tel. 800/266-3639 or 787/727-1591; www.sanjuanvacations.com), and Ronnie's Properties, Calle Marseilles 14, Ritz Condominium, Ste. 11-F, San Juan, PR 00907 (www.ronniesproperties.com).

Private apartments are rented either with or without maid service. This is more of a no-frills option than the villas and condos. An apartment might not be in a building with a swimming pool, and it might not have a front desk to help you. Among the major categories of vacation homes, cottages offer the most freewheeling way to live. Most cottages are fairly simple, many opening in an ideal fashion onto a beach, whereas others may be clustered around a communal pool. Many contain no more than a simple bedroom together with a small kitchen and bathroom. For the peak winter season, reservations should be made at least 5 or 6 months in advance.

Travel experts agree that savings, especially for a family of three to six people, or two or three couples, can range from 50% to 60% over what a hotel would cost. If there are only two in your party, these savings probably don't apply.

Rental Agencies

Agencies specializing in renting properties in Puerto Rico include:

• VHR, Worldwide, 235 Kensington Ave., Norwood, NJ 07648 (tel. 800/633-3284 or 201/767-9393; www.vhrww.com), offers the most comprehensive portfolio of luxury villas, condominiums, resort suites, and apartments for rent in the Caribbean, including complete packages for airfare and car rentals.

• Hideaways Aficionado, 767 Islington St., Portsmouth, NH 03801 (tel. 800/843-4433 or 603/430-4433; www.hideaways.com), provides a 144-page guide with illustrations of its accommodations, so that you can get an idea of what you're renting. Most villas come with maid service. You can also ask this travel club about discounts on plane fares and car rentals.