Things To Do in Quebec City

Wandering the streets of Vieux-Québec is a singular pleasure, comparable to exploring a provincial capital in Europe. You might happen upon an ancient convent, gabled houses with steeply pitched roofs, a battery of 18th-century cannons in a leafy park, or a bistro with a blazing fireplace on a wintry day.

The Old City, Upper and Lower, is so compact that it's hardly necessary to plan precise sightseeing itineraries. Start at Terrasse Dufferin alongside the Château Frontenac and go off on a whim, down Breakneck Stairs (L'Escalier du Casse-Cou) to the Quartier du Petit-Champlain and Place-Royale, or out of the walls to the military fortress of the Citadelle that overlooks the mighty St. Lawrence River and onto the Plains of Abraham, where generals James Wolfe of Britain and Louis-Joseph, marquis de Montcalm of France, fought to their mutual deaths in a 20-minute battle that changed the continent's destiny.

Most of the historic sights are within the city walls of Vieux-Québec's Haute-Ville (Upper Town) and Basse-Ville (Lower Town). While Upper Town is hilly, with sloping streets, it's nothing like, say, San Francisco, and only people with physical limitations are likely to experience difficulty. Other sights are outside Upper Town's walls, along or just off the boulevard called Grande-Allée. If rain or ice discourages exploration on foot, tour buses and horse-drawn calashes are options.

Romantic Québec City -- Every narrow street, leafy plaza, sidewalk cafe, horse-drawn calèche, pitched roof, and church spire breathes recollections of France's provincial towns. But to get the full Québec City treatment, amble those streets in the evening and find a bench on Terrasse Dufferin, the promenade alongside the Château Frontenac. The river below will be the color of liquid mercury in the moon's glow, and on a clear night, you'll see a sky of stars. Faint music from the boîtes in Lower Town is a possibility. Romance is a certainty.

Wandering the streets of Vieux-Québec is a singular pleasure, comparable to exploring a provincial capital in Europe. You might happen upon an ancient convent, gabled houses with steeply pitched roofs, a battery of 18th-century cannons in a leafy park, or a bistro with a blazing fireplace on a wintry day.

Vieux-Québec (or the Old City) is so compact that it’s hardly necessary to plan precise sightseeing itineraries. Most of the historic sights are within the city walls of Haute-Ville (Upper Town) and Basse-Ville (Lower Town). Start at Terrasse Dufferin alongside the Château Frontenac and go off on a whim, down L’Escalier du Casse-Cou (Breakneck Stairs) to the Quartier du Petit-Champlain and Place-Royale, or out of the walls to the military fortress of the Citadelle that overlooks the mighty St. Lawrence River and onto the Plains of Abraham, where generals James Wolfe of Britain and Louis-Joseph, marquis de Montcalm of France, fought to their mutual deaths in a 20-minute battle that changed the continent's destiny.

A few winding, somewhat steep roads (or the Breakneck Stairs or funiculaire) connect Upper and Lower Town. Upper Town can also be hilly, with sloping streets, but only people with physical limitations are likely to experience difficulty. Other sights are outside Upper Town’s walls, along or just off the boulevard called Grande-Allée. If rain or ice discourages exploration on foot, tour buses and horse-drawn calèches are options as well as an electric city bus that loops by most major sights.

Shopping in Lower Town

At the bottom of the Breakneck stairs and the funiculaire is the quaint Quartier de Petit-Champlain, an area of petit (small) winding cobblestone streets. The curved rue du Petit-Champlain is pedestrian-only and the main point of interest. Restored houses in the quartier have been turned into clothing boutiques, specialty shops, and galleries, some of which feature locally made products—but you’ll find a substantial number of trinkets and T-shirts sold here, too. Petit-Champlain attracts more visiting shoppers than locals, tilting the products toward Québec-centric items.

About a half-dozen antiques shops line rue St-Paul near the waterfront on the opposite end of Lower Town. They’re filled with knickknacks, Québec country furniture, candlesticks, old clocks, Victoriana, Art Deco and Art Moderne objects, and the increasingly sought-after kitsch and housewares of the early post–World War II period. Machin Chouette, 225 rue St-Paul (www.machinchouette.com; tel 418/525-9898), hand selects antiques for homes with a modern flair and also makes custom storage units out of album covers, vinyl records, and wood butter boxes. At Les Antiquités Bolduc, 89 rue St-Paul (www.lesantiquitesbolduc.com; tel 418/694-9558), brother-and-sister duo Stéphanie and Frédéric Bolduc sell vintage knickknacks, such as antique sconces and grandfather clocks.

Shopping in Upper Town

Upper Town shops cater to all ends of the spectrum, from high-end collectors of Inuit art to packs of teenagers on school vacations looking for T-shirts with crude jokes. As with Lower Town, Upper Town is small enough that you can wander at leisure without the risk of getting lost.

St-Roch Shopping

Want to know where the cool kids live? Or at least where smart Québécois buy croissants? Nouvo Saint-Roch is a long walk from the tourist zone, but well worth checking out. Most of the appeal is along rue St-Joseph. Grab a cup of coffee from Brûlerie St-Roch (375 rue St-Joseph est; www.lesbruleries.com; tel 418/704-4420) the original location of a growing local chain, or a pain au chocolat from Le Croquembouche (225 rue Saint-Joseph est; www.lecroquembouche.com; tel 418/523-9009) and dodge in and out of the high-end fashion retailers on rue St-Joseph’s eastern end to the pawn shops and consignment stores on the western end. If you ask for directions, it’s pronounced “Saint Rock.”

Shopping Complexes

Shopping malls on a grand scale aren’t found anywhere near Old Town. For that, you need to visit the neighboring municipality of Sainte-Foy. Malls here differ little from their cousins throughout North America in terms of layout and available products. With 350 shops, Laurier Québec, 2700 boul. Laurier, in Sainte-Foy (www.laurierquebec.com; tel 800/322-1828), is the biggest, and it claims some 13 million shoppers each year. The bookstore La Maison Anglaise et Internationale (www.lamaisonanglaise.com; tel 418/654-9523) has been one of the region’s leading sources of English and Spanish language books for more than 2 decades. It’s located in Place de la Cité (www.placedelacite.com; tel 418/657-7015), which is within walking distance of Laurier. From mid-May through mid-October, buses shuttle shoppers between Laurier and several hotel stops in Québec City for C$5; call tel 418/664-0460 for schedules. If you’ve got your own wheels, it’s a 10-minute drive northwest of Vieux-Québec to Galeries de la Capitale (www.galeriesdelacapitale.com; tel 418/627-5800), located at 5401 boul. des Galeries. It has an indoor amusement park, ice rink, and IMAX movie theater alongside its 280 shops.

Shopping Avenue Cartier

When you exit the Old City on Grande-Allée est, you’ll find hotels, restaurants, and clubs, but shopping doesn’t kick in until Grande-Allée meets av. Cartier, a street with gourmet foods, boutique clothing, and few tourists—part of a neighborhood called Montcalm, just beyond Parliament Hill. There’s nothing like a lazy afternoon here. You can feel as much like a city-dweller as possible by ordering a latte bowl at Café Krieghoff, then pop in and out of shops like Zone (999 av. Cartier at the corner of boul. René-Lévesque; www.zonemaison.com; tel 418/522-7373) for mod housewares or Boutique Ketto (951 av. Cartier at Crémazie; www.kettodesign.com; tel 418/522-3337) for impish pottery, ceramic jewelry, and stationery made in Québec. There’s a fantastic bakery (or two—or is it three?) on this street and unique clothing stores for women young and less young. If you’re exploring by car, take Grande-Allée further west (away from the Old City) until it turns into Boulevard Laurier. Turn left on the even less touristy Avenue Maguire. There you’ll find ethnic restaurants, a bagel shop, and Le Canard Goulu (1281 av. Maguire; www.canardgoulu.com; tel 418/687-5116), a boutique with artisanal foie gras products.

Though Québec City has fewer nighttime diversions than exuberant Montréal, there are more than enough to occupy visitors’ evenings. Apart from theatrical productions, which are usually in French, knowledge of the language is rarely needed to enjoy the entertainment.

If you want to stroll around and take in the nightlife options, there are three principal streets to choose from in Upper Town: rue St-Jean inside and outside the walls, Grande-Allée outside the walls (where a beery collegiate atmosphere can sometimes rule as the evening wears on), and avenue Cartier in the Montcalm neighborhood. In St-Roch, the hot spots are on or near rue St-Paul.

Happy hour is locally known as cinq à sept (meaning 5–7pm) and specials are often written on a chalkboard out front as “5 à 7.” Many venues offer specials that start earlier or go later; some start after 10pm and include discounted late-night food menus.

The Performing Arts

Circus

Cirque du Soleil got its start just outside of Québec City and has a history of creating free public performances for major celebrations such as the 450th anniversary of Jaques Cartier’s discovery of Canada (in 1984) or the 400th anniversary of the founding of Québec City (in 2008). The last event launched a spectacular 5-year, five-chapter aerial show called “The Harbor of Lost Souls,” with one of five chapters performed every summer—again, for free, most evenings—through 2013. The troupe returned in July 2014 to its temporary outdoor stage on the Port de Québec but began charging admission. To confirm dates or buy tickets for 2015, visit www.cirquedusoleil.com.

Classical Music, Opera & Dance

The region’s premier classical groups are Orchestre Symphonique de Québec (www.osq.org; tel 877/643-8131 or 418/643-5598), Canada’s oldest symphony, which performs at the Grand Théâtre de Québec, and Les Violons du Roy (www.violonsduroy.com; tel 418/692-3026), a string orchestra that is celebrating its 31st year. It features a core group of 15 musicians and performs at the centrally located Palais Montcalm. The notable Opéra de Québec (www.operadequebec.qc.ca; tel 877/643-8131) is also in its 31st year.

Concert Halls & Performance Venues

Many of the city’s churches host sacred and secular music concerts, as well as special Christmas festivities. There are also a number of outdoor amphitheatres with full summer schedules. Look for posters on outdoor kiosks around the city and check with the tourist office for listings.

Colisée Pepsi -- This 15,000-seat arena is home to the Remparts, a popular junior hockey team. The stadium also hosts events such as monster truck extravaganzas, boxing matches, and occasional rock shows. It’s a 10-minute drive northwest of Parliament Hill. 250 boul. Wilfrid-Hamel (ExpoCité), north of St-Roch. www.expocite.com. tel 800/900-7469 or 418/691-7110.

Grand Théâtre de Québec  -- Classical music concerts, opera, dance, jazz, klezmer, and theatrical productions are presented in two halls. Visiting conductors, orchestras, and dance companies perform here, in addition to resident companies such as the Orchestre Symphonique de Québec and Opéra de Québec. 269 boul. René-Lévesque est (near av. Turnbull), Parliament Hill. www.grandtheatre.qc.ca. tel 877/643-8131 or 418/643-8131.

Le Capitole  -- Big musical productions such as “Sweeney Todd” and “The Beatles Story,” along with live musical performances, keep this historic 1,262-seat theater on Place d'Youville buzzing along (productions are in French). More intimate shows are put on in the attached Le Cabaret du Capitole. 972 rue St-Jean (at Place d’Youville), Parliament Hill. www.lecapitole.com. tel 800/261-9903 or 418/694-4444.

Palais Montcalm  -- Renovations have made this venue bigger and more modern, and it’s now a hub of the city’s cultural community. The main performance space seats 979 and presents a mix of dance programs, plays, and classical music concerts. More intimate recitals happen in a 125-seat cafe-theater. 995 Place d’Youville (near Porte Saint-Jean), Parliament Hill. www.palaismontcalm.ca. tel 877/641-6040 or 418/641-6040.

Bars & Nightclubs

In addition to regular bars and nightclub, look for boîtes à chansons (literally, “boxes with songs”), which are small clubs that feature casual evenings of music from singer-songwriters. They’re a regional specialty and popular throughout Québec.

Vieux-Québec: Haute-Ville (Upper Town)

Le Jazz Bar  -- On Friday and Saturday nights, jazz duos and trios take the stage in this cozy nook within the historic Clarendon Hotel. You can order food from the Le Charles Baillairgé menu, if you like. 57 rue Sainte-Anne (at rue des Jardins). www.hotelclarendon.com/jazz-bar-en. tel 888/222-3304.

Pub St-Alexandre  -- Roomy and sophisticated, this is one of the best-looking bars in town. It’s done in British-pub style: polished mahogany, exposed brick, and a working fireplace that’s particularly comforting during the 8 cold months of the year. Bartenders serve more than 50 single-malt scotches and 250 beers, along with hearty bar food (croque monsieur, steak-and-kidney pie, fish and chips). Check the schedule for the occasional live music—rock, blues, jazz, or Irish. 1087 rue St-Jean (near rue St-Stanislas). www.pubstalexandre.com. tel 418/694-0015.

Ristorante Il Teatro  -- This friendly Italian restaurant directly on the Place d'Youville is open from 7am to at least 2am every day. It’s part of a complex that includes Le Capitole theater, and actors, musical performers, and theater staff often come in for a drink or a meal after shows. 972 rue St-Jean (at Place d'Youville). www.lecapitole.com/en/restaurant.php. tel 418/694-9996.

1608 Wine and Cheese Bar  -- A modern re-interpretation of what once was an elegant room inside Québec’s magical castle, the hotel Château Frontenac. While not seen by press time, we can imagine 1608 is a fine spot for a cocktail and some nibbles among the well-heeled, even if you’re not staying the night. Château Frontenac, 1 rue des Carrières. www.fairmont.com/frontenac-quebec/dining. tel 418/692-3861.

Vieux-Québec: Basse-Ville (Lower Town)

Le Pape-Georges  -- A cozy wine bar in a 345-year-old stone-and-beamed room that features chanson (a French-cabaret singing style), along with other music, weekend nights at 10pm (and Thurs in summer). Light fare is available, along with up to 15 choices of wine by the glass (the bar’s motto: “Save water; drink wine!”). 8 rue Cul-de-Sac (near boul. Champlain). www.papegeorges.ca. tel 418/692-1320.

SSS  -- SSS may be the only lounge and restaurant in Vieux-Québec that adopts the sleek, bigger-city approach of sounding its techno beats onto the sidewalk to lure cocktail seekers. Owned by the same team behind the upscale restaurant Toast!, SSS brings French flair to American comfort foods—ribs, hot dogs, onion rings. Guests can opt for entrees or apps, dining room or bar. On busy nights, a snack menu kicks in after 10:30pm (and on busy afternoons between 2–5pm). 71 rue St-Paul (near rue Sault-au-Matelot). www.restaurantsss.com. tel 418/692-1991.

Théâtre Petit-Champlain  -- Québécois and French singers alternate with jazz and blues groups in this roomy cafe and theater in Lower Town. Performances take place most Thursdays through Saturdays at 8pm. Tickets run about C$20 to C$50. There’s a pretty outdoor patio for preshow drinks. 68 rue du Petit-Champlain (near the funiculaire). www.theatrepetitchamplain.com. tel 418/692-2631.

Dance

The Parliament Hill neighborhood, on or near Grande-Allée, has the highest concentration of dance clubs. Dagobert Night Club (600 Grande-Allée est; www.dagobert.ca; tel 418/522-0393) imports DJs from Montréal and as far away as the U.K. and is a rite of passage for many locals or others just of age who pack the 1,000-person patio. Just across the street is Maurice Night Club (575 Grande-Allée est; www.mauricenightclub.com; tel 418/647-2000), a converted mansion with a couple of bars within (an older crowd gravitates toward its Charlotte Lounge). The nearby Savini (680 Grande-Allée est; www.savini.ca; tel 418/647-4747), a self-dubbed “vinothèque,” combines wine, hostesses in teeny dresses, and nightly DJs. It’s also a fine spot for late-night pizza or salad. Catering mostly to gay and lesbian clientele, Le Drague Cabaret Club (815 rue St-Augustin; www.ledrague.com; tel 418/649-7212), or “the Drag,” features two dance floors and a cabaret with drag shows on Thursday, Friday, and Sunday nights. It’s located just off rue St-Jean in the Faubourg St-Jean neighborhood, within walking distance of the other clubs.

Parliament Hill (on or Near Grande-Allée)

La Ninkasi du Faubourg -- With a tagline “bières et culture,” Ninkasi features almost all Québécois wine and spirits, including 40 local microbrews. In warm months, there’s an outdoor terrace. It's open daily from 1pm to 3am. 811 rue St-Jean (1 block west of av. Honoré-Mercier). www.laninkasi.ca. tel 418/529-8538.

St-Roch

Boudoir Lounge -- The hottest club in St-Roch, Boudoir has two floors and books DJs on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights and live music on Sunday nights. Local hipsters generally hop between here, Versa across the street at no. 432 (www.versarestaurant.com), and Yuzu Le Restaurant (www.yuzulerestaurant.ca) at no. 438, the concept space of the growing Yuzu Sushi empire. 441 rue du Parvis (at boul. Charest est). www.boudoirlounge.com. tel 418/524-2777.

La Barberie Microbrasserie Coopérative de travail  -- There’s no better spot to hang out on a sunny afternoon with a carousel of house-made microbrews than in La Barberie’s beer garden. Get there early on weekends because seats go fast and stay occupied. This place is so laid back that midweek you can bring your lunch and heat it up on the premises. 310 rue St-Roch (at rue de la Reine). www.labarberie.com. tel 418/522-4373.

Le Cercle  -- A unique gallery-bar-resto-concert venue, this spot in St-Roch can be a go-to for excellent wines, other fun drinks, tapas, good music, and eclectic, slightly avant-garde entertainment. 228 rue St-Joseph est (near rue Caron). www.le-cercle.ca. tel 418/948-8648.