Things To Do in Shelburne

The 10-block heritage district runs along the waterfront with its early-19th-century streetscapes, all well-kept and colorful. Visitors tend to linger at the museum complex, the Saturday morning farmers market, gift shops, a working cooperage where wooden barrels are still made (technically, it’s not open to the public, but ask nicely for a look), the Osprey Arts Centre, open year-round (tel. 902/875-2359) for live performances and films. A block inland from the water is Shelburne’s commercial stretch for services like banks, shops, gas, and snacks.

The town has developed a 3.5km (2.2-mile) section of an abandoned rail line as a trail, which links with a section that runs from the Roseway River to Islands Provincial Park.

If you’re here in September, don’t miss the whimsical and colorful Whirligig and Weathervane Festival featuring dozens of homemade, wind-propelled lawn ornaments. Rug-hooking displays, a ukulele camp, and other activities occur simultaneously.

Many visitors tack on a day in Lockeport, a laidback little fishing town on an island linked to the mainland by the famous Crescent Beach, so picturesque it was once featured on the back of the Canadian $50 bill. To get there, take exit 24 from Jordan Falls or 23 from Sable River off Highway 103 and drive about 20km (12.5 miles). This road known as “The Lockeport Loop” on Route 3 is part of the Lighthouse Route and leads into town via a short causeway across the beach. There’s an attractive contemporary building right at the beach with tourist information, changing rooms, and nifty views from a second story loft. Head into town for a bite to eat at one of several restaurants, including classic fish and chips at the White Gull Restaurant & Marina. I always drop in on the Lockeport Town Market, a tiny grocery store that employs a butcher for homemade sausage and other preparations that harken back to a bygone era of small-town service.

If you decide to extend your stay beyond an afternoon—many do—I recommend the Ocean Mist Cottages (1 Gull Rock Rd., across the street from the red-brick high school as you enter town; tel 902/656-3200) has 6 two-bedroom cottages for C$220–C$280 per night or C$1,500–C$1,800 weekly. It is open year-round. Set right on the beach at the edge of town (everything is within easy walking distance), these cozy little houses include fully equipped kitchens, comfortable furnishings, and a gas stove for those cold, foggy days. Ask owner Bill Crosby, an avid photographer and bird watcher, about the best birding spots in the area. Book well ahead, because this is a popular vacation destination for repeat visitors.

Rissers Beach Loop (A Scenic Drive)

Between Liverpool and Bridgewater (the South Shore’s largest town and a good place to access any number of services), there’s a 37km (23-mile) stretch of coastal road that is quintessentially Nova Scotian. It’s Route 331, a coastal drive that passes through idyllic little villages like Cherry Hill, Broad Cove, Petite Rivière, Risers Beach, Crescent Beach, and finally LaHave, where the ocean meets the LaHave River. From the LaHave Ferry (open 7am–11pm; 📞 902/527-7632) you have several options: continue on into Bridgewater to shop or jump back onto Highway 103 or cross by the cable ferry to the other side of the river to either drive into Bridgewater or continue your coastal explorations on into Lunenburg on Route 332. With both options you’ll be able to explore beaches, islands, and antique shops or perhaps take photos of a lonely fishing boat moored in a wooded cove, the whole scene reflecting off the glassy surface of the water. Just before the ferry is the delightful LaHave Bakery (tel. 902/688-2908) a lunch spot in a fabulous old building (tin ceilings, old wooden shelves groaning with memorabilia) next to the water. At the back of the building is a sweet bookstore and a lovely artists’ cooperative where you can find unique gift ideas. It’s open 9am 4pm daily.

If you fall in love with this little stretch of heaven and want to stay in the area, you can camp in the middle of it all next to a beach within sight of the LaHave Islands, some of which are linked by road. Route 331 runs right through the seaside Rissers Beach Provincial Park. The beach is the main attraction, but there’s also a boardwalk along an inland marsh, an interpretation center and a campground offering 93 sites, 15 of which are equipped with electrical and water hookups. Site 31 is best; it is beside the ocean and relatively private.