Planning a trip to Switzerland

Getting Around

By Car

Public transport in Switzerland is fantastic, but a car has its advantages: You can save time reaching smaller villages and experience the thrill of winding up and down an Alpine pass, stopping for photos or picnics whenever you like. Note that the season for crossing Alpine passes is short due to snow; they’re sometimes open only from late spring to early autumn. But the big tunnels can be an adventure, too. You and your car can catch a ride on a train via SBB to get through some of the mountainous areas. This Autoverlad service is available for Furka, Lotschberg, Simplon, and Vereina.

Switzerland’s roads are generally excellent, marked by clear signage and seldom pockmarked with potholes. Drivers are well trained. You may only need a rubber bone when driving sharply curving, narrow, steep mountain roads, with impatient locals at your rear; or in cities, where trams and bicycles seem to whoosh into streets out of nowhere. One more note of caution: Never, ever drive into the mountains if there’s any chance of snow unless you have proper winter tires or chains. In some areas, chains are required, which will be indicated by a blue road sign with a picture of a tire in chains; the same sign with a red slash tells you when you exit that zone. Attempting to drive down an icy mountain with summer tires can be incredibly dangerous (and you may not be covered by insurance).

Car Rentals—If you’re considering renting a car, try the website Autoslash.com. It applies any coupons on the market to your rental upon booking, continues to search for better rates until you pick up the car. If the price drops, they’ll automatically give you a new reservation. We’ve found Autoslash.com to be the best search engine for rentals by far, though it’s a bit clunky to use (you must wait for an email back before you can see the options; that email usually comes within minutes of your request, though). Car rental search companies usually report the lowest rates available between 6 and 8 weeks ahead of arrival. The minimum age for renting a car in Switzerland is generally 19 or 20, though some vehicle classes have restrictions or surcharges for drivers under 25.

Rent the smallest car possible and minimize fuel costs by requesting an efficient diesel rather than a gasoline engine. Many rental cars in Switzerland come with a manual transmission, so be sure to clarify this in your booking or at time of pick-up. Also, consider renting a smaller car if you’ll be driving in cities, as maneuvering in wee garages and parking spots can be a challenge.

Renting at the airport costs more, so you might choose to pick up a vehicle at a downtown or regional office run by one of the major rental companies.

Highway Tax Sticker (Vignette)—Instead of charging tolls, Switzerland levies a single annual fee by selling stickers permitting use of the nation’s highways for 40CHF. The sticker, called a vignette, is good for a full calendar year. Anyone caught driving on a highway for even one exit without a vignette clearly affixed to the inside of the windshield receives a fine of 200CHF. Fines are also doled out to drivers found just setting the sticker on the dashboard or trying to stick it with tape as a temporary fix.

You can buy the vignette at a Customs office at the Swiss border, at Swiss post offices, and gas stations. If you want a vignette in hand before arriving in Switzerland, a website run by the Swiss federal government, www.ezv.admin.ch, provides information about the vignette and where to purchase it online or in other European countries. Most rental cars in Switzerland come equipped with one.

Note: The vignette isn’t required for secondary roads—only highways.

Gas—Prices for gas or petrol (Benzin in German, essence in French, or benzina in Italian) vary across the country but tend to be lower in rural areas and away from highways. As of press time, fuel costs about (1.60CHF/liter (6.10CHF/gallon). You can often find mini-markets attached to gas stations that are open 7 days a week, but rarely overnight. Nearly all gas stations have machines to pay at the pump 24-7.

Driver's License—Any adult who’s at least 18 years old and holding a valid national driver’s license can drive in Switzerland, as long as the permitted vehicle categories are listed in the Roman alphabet on the foreign license. However, if you’re touring Europe and driving to other countries, you might want to invest in an International Driving Permit (www.internationaldrivingpermit.org). Italy, for one, requires an IDP of anyone holding a non-E.U. driver’s license, and even where not strictly required, the IDP can simplify things. Before leaving home, you can apply for an IDP from the American Automobile Association (AAA; www.aaa.com; tel. 800/622-7070 or 650/294-7400). In Canada, the permit is available from the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA; www.caa.ca; tel. 800/222-4357). The permit is only valid in combination with your actual driver’s license.

Insurance—To drive a car legally in Switzerland, as elsewhere in Europe, you must have in your possession an international insurance certificate, known as a Green Card (Carte Verte). Rental cars ordinarily store this with the car registration and manual in the glove compartment.

Driving Rules—The legal minimum age for driving in Switzerland is 18, though car-rental firms often set their own minimum age.

Drive on the right side of the road.

You’ll practically never see traffic police lurking on roadsides, but Switzerland deploys many grayish, unmarked speed cameras hidden in tunnels, behind trees and traffic lights, and other unexpected locations. Avoiding this roadside candid-camera photo and the associated fines is another strong motivation for following speed limits. Limits are generally 120kmph (about 75 mph) on highways, 80kmph (about 50 mph) on other roads outside built-up areas, and 50kmph (about 30 mph) in cities, towns, and villages, unless otherwise posted. Areas with a lot of pedestrians or children often limit speeds to 30 kmph (about 17 mph) or less. Speed limits on highways are sometimes temporarily reduced because of poor visibility. Note that if speeds exceed the limit by a certain amount, fines can be severe.

A few more road rules to follow in this rule-loving nation: Keep headlights on even during the day. Never pass another car from the right—not even if they’re annoyingly slow. Always wear your seat belt, whether sitting in the front or back. Kids under 12 years old must sit in a special car seat if they are under 150 cm (59 inches) tall; for ages 4 to 11, this can be a booster seat. Children of all ages may sit in the front seat, if in the appropriate car seat; but in cars equipped with airbags, the front airbag on the passenger’s side must be deactivated for rear-facing child car seats. Don’t use your mobile phone while driving unless it’s hands free. And, needless to say, don’t drink and drive; driving while under the influence of alcohol is considered a serious offense.

Also note that pedestrians have the right of way. If one steps into the "zebra stripes" crossings, stop the car.

Breakdowns & Assistance—If you have a breakdown or other emergency, set up the reflective warning triangles 50m (164 ft.) in front of and behind the car (or even further away if in fast-moving traffic). The triangles should be in the trunk of your car. Dial tel. 140. Or, Switzerland’s Touring Club Suisse (TCS) (www.tcs.ch; tel. 0800-140-140) advises visitors to contact their automobile club back home if they’re members. The home club may be able to advise on the next steps to get your flat tire or other car trouble fixed, and, if it’s a partner organization, may even make the arrangements with TCS directly. Highways often have emergency call boxes.

Parking—White lines for on-street parking indicate public spaces, sometimes, but not always, free, and sometimes with time limits. In that case, set the time of your arrival on the blue cardboard disc that looks like a toy clock, and set it on the dashboard. You should have one of these Parkuhren in your glove compartment or the pocket of the driver’s door.

Parking within blue lines often requires a residential permit or paid ticket, unless a sign indicates that blue parking disc is needed. To pay for street parking, there’s usually one machine for a group of cars. Some require you to drop in coins corresponding to how long you want to park; the machine then spits out a ticket that you leave on your dashboard. For other parking meters, enter the number of your parking spot and then pay. You may not park in a yellow spot, unless it has an X indicating it’s a loading zone; but you still shouldn’t park here except for very quick cases such as dropping luggage off at a hotel.

Parking lots and garages have ticket dispensers, but exit booths are not usually manned. When you return to the lot to depart, first visit the payment machine to exchange your ticket for a paid receipt, which you will then feed into the machine to get through the exit barrier. Even grocery stores and chains like IKEA tend to charge for parking, which is a precious commodity in such a small country with densely populated urban centers.

The number of parking spots with charging options for electric cars is increasing.

Road Signs—A speed limit sign is a black number in a red circle on a white background. The end of a speed zone is black and white, with a black slash through the number. A white circle with a black slash means the maximum speed limit, 120 kmph, is in effect. A red circle on white, a black arrow pointing down, and a red arrow pointing up means yield to oncoming traffic, while a red-and-white triangle pointing down means yield ahead. A blue circle with white triangles going around it signal an upcoming traffic circle. Such traffic circles are common, effectively a low-tech substitute for a traffic light.

A white arrow on a blue background is used for one-way streets; a mostly red circle with a horizontal white slash means Do Not Enter. Any image in black on a white background surrounded by a red circle means that image is not allowed (for instance, if the image is two cars next to each other, it means no passing; a motorcycle means no Harleys permitted; and so on). A circular sign with blue and a red circle-slash means no parking.

By Train

The Swiss sometimes grumble about delays or other annoyances on their trains, but people from other countries, such as Germany, the UK, or U.S., roll their eyes and quickly set them straight. Swiss trains on the whole are punctual, clean, and comfortable, with frequent connections. Staff tend to be polite and helpful. On some newer trains, you could almost be fooled into thinking that second-class cars are actually first-class. Driving can be more convenient if you’re changing locations frequently with a lot of luggage or visiting remote places. Otherwise, try the trains.

Well-Trained Traveler

Here are some tips and good-to-know info make train travel in Switzerland a breeze:

Be a super trooper. Research your planned journey to see if there is a supersaver ticket, which is indicated with a percentage sign. The discounts dip as low as 70 percent. If you see a supersaver fare after you purchase a regular ticket, you can even get a refund, minus a 10CHF fee.

Surf for specials. Also—especially if you buy individual fares instead of a broad-coverage travel pass—look for package deals on www.sbb.ch. SBB posts frequent specials combining train fare with, for example, admission to a museum, or accommodations and ski passes.

You can go your own way. Within Switzerland, every ticket lets you travel on any train, whether it’s the slow, local choo-choo or the more luxurious high-speed train.

Get validated. Any tickets without a specific date for travel must be validated before boarding the train. There’s usually a small box on the train platform where you get the date stamped on the ticket. Some automatic ticket machines have a slot, too.

Easy as A, B, C (or D). For long trains, look at the sign above the platform indicating at which sectors the first- and second-class cars will stop. Then you’ll know where to stand and won’t need to dash to the right door when the train pulls in.

Have some reservations. If you have a reservation, look for a chart on the platform that shows approximately where the numbered train car with your seat will stop. Reservations are generally not required, except for some special tourist trains.

Check conditions. You can’t reserve seats on a local train, but usually can on trans-regional ones. The SBB app and website show when trains will likely be more crowded, so you can decide if you want to buy a 5CHF reservation to avoid stress and make sure you sit with companions or just chance it.

Ask away. Most announcements and information are in English as well as German, French, and Italian. Any worker near a train will probably be able to help in English if you’re ever unsure of where to go or how things work.

Kid around. Double-decker InterCity trains have a family car, marked as “FA,” with a small playground and games. And lower odds of dirty looks if your kids get stir-crazy.

Travel durations and facilities vary depending on what type of train you take. High-speed, longer-distance trains have charging ports and a dining car or snack cart, for example. Because Switzerland is small, many trains passing through are actually from other countries—Germany’s Intercity Express (ICE) and France’s TGV Lyria are two, and Italian and Austrian trains also ride the rails in Switzerland.

Some other types of trains you may frequently encounter, in ascending order of speed and distance covered, are the suburban S-Bahn, Regio (R), RegioExpress (RE), InterRegio (IR), InterCity (IC), and EuroCity (EC). The former trains stop at virtually all stations.

If you’re in need of advice, you can buy tickets from the counter at larger train stations. Some smaller stations have a convenience store that sells tickets, but the cashiers can’t offer much guidance. Otherwise, buy tickets online, by app, or on the multi-lingual automatic ticket machines at all stations. These usually take both cash and credit cards. Because you can take any train for the same price (barring special tourist offers), there’s no need to buy in advance.

Schedules are easy to track via app or online and are listed on yellow posters at train stations. Arrivals are listed on a white poster. If you want to explore unencumbered, you can usually find luggage storage lockers at bigger stations.

Special Passes & Discounts

Special train passes can be a great deal, especially those that include admission prices and discounts for museums and other activities. They can also simplify things because you don’t have to buy individual train tickets—though you do have to be mindful of which journeys require an additional reservation or supplement. But a pass can also be a waste of money if you buy one that’s more than what you really need. So sketch out your itinerary beforehand, at least roughly, and try to get an idea of the costs of point-to-point tickets compared with passes.

Swiss Travel Pass/Swiss Travel Pass Flex—The Swiss Travel Pass offers a decent bang for the buck if you plan some days of longer train rides and visits to the attractions it covers. It entitles you to unlimited travel by train, bus, and boat, the scenic panorama trains (though reservations or surcharges may apply), public transport in more than 90 towns and cities, free admission to more than 500 museums, full fare or discounts on some mountain trips, and discounts on RailAway day trip specials.

The Swiss Travel Pass is good for a predetermined number of consecutive days—3, 4, 8, or 15. A 3-day pass for adults in second class costs 232CHF; 4 days are 281CHF, 8 days cost 418CHF, and a 15-day pass costs 513CHF. In first class, it costs between 369CHF and 810CHF. For young adults ages 16 to 25, the pass is called Swiss Travel Pass Youth, and prices are 15 percent cheaper. There are no discounts for senior citizens.

The Swiss Travel Pass Flex variation lets you travel and use the discounts on any 3, 4, 8, or 15 days within a month. Prices are, for adults in second class: 267CHF for 3 days, 323CHF for 4 days, 467CHF for 8 days, and 563CHF for 15 days. In first class, the flexible pass runs from 424CHF to 890CHF. The youth discount again is 15 percent for young adults between 16 and 25.

Another option is the Swiss Half Fare Card, which gives a 50 percent discount on train, bus, and boat travel and most mountain railways, as well as on local and regional public transportation in dozens of towns and cities for 1 month for 120CHF. It can be a good choice if you’re planning shorter trips and can pay for itself quickly, given the prices of Swiss trains.

You can order the passes and Half Fare Card online or buy them at some international outlets (see the list on www.myswitzerland.com) before your trip. In Switzerland, buy them at major train stations, including at the Geneva and Zurich airports, and at tourist offices in Zurich, Bern, Basel, Geneva, and Luzern. All but the Flex pass can also be purchased online and printed out before traveling. These deals are available to anyone whose permanent residence is outside Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Families should request a free Swiss Family Card when purchasing their passes. It lets all kids under 16 years travel for free with the adult holder of the travel pass. Kids under 6 travel free even without a ticket or pass, but for children between 6 and 16, you’ll need a free Swiss Family Card, which you can request when purchasing your Swiss Travel Pass/Flex or Half Fare Card.

Swiss Regional Rail Passes—If you plan to devote a block of days to intensively exploring one area, the Regional Passes can be a savings. These include passes for Lake Geneva and its Alpine region, the Tell Pass for central Switzerland, and passes for the Grisons (Graubünden), and the Bernese Oberland. They’re priced for a fixed number of days; you choose how many from a list of options.

One that’s popular is the Bernese Oberland Regional Pass (www.regionalpass-berneroberland.ch), available from mid-April through October. You get access for 3, 4, 6, 8, or 10 days to most cog railways, buses, cable cars, ferryboats, and federal SBB trains in the region. You’ll also get discounts on a number of activities. A second-class pass costs from 210CHF for 3 days to 390CHF for 10 days. Holders of a Swiss Travel Pass or Swiss Half Fare Card pay 50 percent less. The Swiss Family Card is not valid here; all kids between 6 and 15 must pay 30CHF for a pass. If you use it for a few of the major mountain ascensions, which typically may run from around 50CHF–90CHF, in addition to regular area transport, it can pay off. If you’re arriving very early in the season, check first to make sure the mountains you want to visit are already accessible. Buy it online and print before travelling, or purchase it at airport railway stations in Zurich, Geneva, and Basel, and at train stations, boat ticket sellers, and tourist information centers in the region.

Eurail Passes—Eurail does not offer a single-country pass for Switzerland, but you can travel in Switzerland with the Eurail Global Pass. See www.eurail.com for a price calculation tool based on countries you want to visit and number of days you plan to travel by train. You can buy a Eurail pass at European train stations, but it’s more expensive, so buy it before you arrive. Eurail passes cost less if you’re under 28 or over 60. Children under 11 can get a free Child Pass. Though the Eurail pass will let you hop on any train in Switzerland, you need reservations for some tourist trains, night trains, and international high-speed trains. Only citizens of countries outside Europe can buy a Eurail pass. Citizens and residents of European countries, for their part, are eligible to buy an Interrail pass (www.interrail.eu). Up to two children ages 4 to 11 travel free with one adult who has a pass, but need to have a Child Pass issued. Kids under 4 don’t need any pass. If traveling at night, kids need their own reservations for a bed in a couchette or sleeper car.

You can buy the passes at travel agents in North America, as well as various websites. Or see Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com), where you can also get informed on other passes and European travel options.

By Bus

The dense network of comfortable yellow Swiss postal buses (www.postauto.ch, tel. 0848/888-888) is practically a world wonder. The drivers, with nerves of steel, zip up and down mountains, bringing you to more rural places not covered by the train network. Bring your rubber bone and enjoy the views. A few routes (the minority) require reservations. Buy tickets from the driver (cash only), vending machines, at a service counter or some post offices, or the app. Post bus routes are also included on the SBB website and app.

For long-distance (by Swiss standards) stretches, Eurobus (www.eurobus.ch, tel. 0848/000-212) operates city-to-city routes in partnership with Flixbus (see above), which provides the booking system and sells tickets. Flixbus offers reduced fares if you book in advance. You can also purchase tickets via the SBB, but then you won’t be eligible for the early-purchase discounts. Bus journeys can take longer but are usually cheaper than trains.

By Bike

Switzerland doesn’t merely have great outdoors; the outdoors are spectacular. That scenery combined with superb roads and thousands of miles of bike paths and trails begs for exploration by bicycle, whether that’s a leisurely ride around a lake or powering over a mountain pass. Rent a Bike (www.rentabike.ch) rents a variety of bikes with helmets—standard bicycles (Velo) or mountain bikes, electric bikes (aka e-bikes, for a little assistance in those mountainous regions or to cover wider distances), children’s bikes, seats (Kindersitz) and trailers (Anhänger), and tandem bikes (Windschattenvelo). It's best to reserve your bicycle of choice online. Some bikes must be returned to the same station; in places where you can return the bike to a different location, there’s a 10CHF surcharge. Prices vary depending on model and duration: A day’s rental of a standard bike costs 35CHF. Note that not all stations accept credit cards for payment. Many of the bike rental spots are at train stations, which lets you take advantage of a RailAway offer that gives a 20 percent discount on bike rental if you use public transport that day. You can buy the ticket and RailAway voucher at www.sbb.ch or a ticket counter.

On Foot

Switzerland’s old towns were made for walking. They’re generally compact, and often with extensive pedestrian zones. And then there’s the rest of the country. There are countless beautiful, thrilling, or tranquil, hikes for all levels of ability and interest, from highly challenging to very easy—all told, about 65,000 kms of signposted trails (well over 40,000 miles) of trails. A hike can be an hour or multiple days, with overnights in mountain cabins (Berghütte) along the way or in hotels, with luggage schlepped from hotel to hotel for you with a pre-arranged tour. Maintained grill pits (Feuerstelle) line some trails, sometimes with a supply of wood on hand. Just bring matches, sausages, and pre-packaged pizza dough to wrap in strips around a stick and roast over the fire (Schlangenbrot, or snake bread).

Families can increasingly find themed trails where kids track giants or gnomes, or learn about planets or ibexes, usually with a cafeteria and often a playground.

Switzerland Mobility (www.schweizmobil.ch; tel. 031/318-01-28) has advice and links for all types of hikes, package tours that schlepp your luggage from hotel to hotel while you wander unencumbered, and even a special Alpine taxi to take you to remote destinations from wherever the train or cable car ends. A nifty website with maps showing hiking trails and public transport, where you can also mark and "draw" on maps, is at www.map.geo.admin.ch.

By Boat

In the summer, passenger boats sail Switzerland’s major lakes and rivers. Most offer food and sometimes themes. Evening trips with music and dancing are also popular. The old paddle-steamers on the lakes of Brienz, Geneva, Lucerne, and Zurich, dating from before World War I, are particularly scenic and romantic. These cruises are operated by local companies, but the national and local tourist boards can give an overview of options. These cruises are covered by the Swiss Travel Pass.

Special Train Tours

It’s a shame Switzerland’s natural beauty can’t be packaged to take home with you. But you can pack yourself into a panoramic train to soak that scenery up while you’re here. True, many regular trains similarly wind through mountain valleys and over mind-bogglingly engineered bridges straddling Alpine ravines—with cheaper tickets and more flexibility. However, travelers often enjoy the ease and comfort of these special train lines, with XXL windows and routes designed to maximize your amazement. Note that not all panoramic tours accept all Swiss travel passes, half-fare cards, and other passes.

The Rhaetian Railway (www.rhb.ch; tel. 081/288-65-65) operates the Glacier Express between two of the Swiss Alps’ big guns, Zermatt and St. Moritz; optionally, you can start from Davos via an extra train. This "slowest express train in the world" is 8 hours if you opt for the full journey. A seat in the deluxe "Excellence Class," including concierge service and access to the Glacier Bar, starts at 420CHF, while a second-class ticket for the whole stretch can cost around 150CHF plus 33CHF for the seat reservation, depending when you travel.

What do glaciers and palm trees have in common? Rhaetian Railways’ popular Bernina Express, with the Alps’ highest railway, can take you to both in1 day. Covering tracks from Chur to Tirano in northern Italy, part of the rail line is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. A Bernina Express Bus lets you extend your trip with a ride in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino. Tickets can’t be purchased online more than a few months in advance, but you can make the obligatory advance reservation, for which prices vary. Rhaetian Railways also runs other special train trips.

The Furka Steam Railway (www.dfb.ch; tel. 0848-000-144; tickets 121CHF round trip, children under 16 free with a parent; reservations required; Fri–Sun June 22–Oct 6; daily July 8–Aug 18), carries you from Realp to Oberwald in about 2 hours over the Furka Pass of 007 fame (though Sean Connery as James Bond zoomed down it by car, not train, in Goldfinger).

Cheese, chocolate, and a choo-choo is what you’ll get on the Chocolate Train (www.mob.ch; tel. 021/989-81-90). At 95CHF for a second-class ticket or 99CHF for first-class (discounts from Swiss travel passes and half-fare cards apply), you could cobble the trip together yourself for less, but it might be more challenging to fit it all into a day, and you wouldn’t get to ride a glam, Belle Epoque–style train. Note, however, that after that first stretch, the day’s transport is actually by bus. The Chocolate Train, from May–Oct, brings you from Montreux to Gruyères to see production of the eponymous cheese and the medieval village. Then it’s off to Switzerland’s most popular chocolate factory experience, Maison Cailler and back to Montreux.

The Golden Pass (www.goldenpassline.ch) line promises more peak Alpine eye candy in three separate trains: Montreux to Zweisimmen, in a train car with panoramic windows or, in first class, a retro car inspired by the 1930s Golden Mountain Pullman Express. Next is Zweisimmen to Interlaken, then Interlaken to Lucerne. You can book reservations on the website, but you buy the tickets from the SBB. The whole journey is a bit over 5 hours, but you can break it up as you please.

Staying Connected

Internet & Wi-Fi

Switzerland has an abundance of good Internet, and more and more businesses offer free Wi-Fi. Most hotels have it, too, but if it’s absolutely essential to be connected during your stay, check in advance to be sure.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit with the power and phone adapters you need, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable—or find out whether your hotel can lend them to guests.

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and many other countries worldwide. (In the U.S., some service providers use a different technology—CDMA—and phones on those networks also need GSM and/or 4G/LTE compatibility to work in Switzerland. Most current, high-end models do; older phones may not work.) GSM phones function with a tiny, removable plastic SIM card that’s encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls across much of the globe. Just ask your wireless for “international roaming” to be activated.

The bad news is that roaming charges can be very high, especially if you use the Internet. But you can solve this problem by buying a Swiss SIM card when you arrive so you pay local rates (the shop can usually help you insert it). It can save you a ton, especially if you’re staying more than a few days. The main service providers are Swisscom (www.swisscom.ch), Salt (www.salt.ch), and Sunrise (www.sunrise.ch), but you can also buy phones and SIM cards at electronic shops like (www.interdiscount.ch) or MediaMarkt (www.mediamarkt.ch). Note: U.S. contract cellphones are often “locked” and will only work with a SIM card provided by the service provider back home, so check before leaving home that you have an unlocked phone.

Buying a phone is also an option. You can buy a very cheap one and a starter data package for as little as 35CHF, then donate it before flying back. There are a couple of stores selling mobile phones in Zurich Airport, and such stores are often in or near larger train stations.

Health & Safety

Medical care and health facilities in Switzerland are among the best in the world, and there are no particular health risks. Swiss authorities, however, require immunization against contagious diseases if you have been in an infected area during the 14-day period immediately preceding your arrival in Switzerland.

Take along an adequate supply of any prescription drugs that you’ll need, as well as a written prescription that uses the generic name—rather than the brand name—of the drugs (in general, French and German, not U.S., drugs are available in Switzerland). Be sure to carry your vital medicines and drugs in your carry-on luggage. Also, make sure your travel insurance covers medical emergencies. Emergency care tends to cost far less than in the U.S., but it’s still expensive.

In the mountains, which account for about 60 percent of the area of the country, you should always bring sunscreen, as the sun can be intense at high altitudes. Here are some other special considerations for your Alp adventures:

• Altitude Sickness -- Because of Switzerland's lofty position "at the top of Europe," some concerns might arise if you're planning strenuous activities at higher altitudes. High altitude sickness most often occurs when you go too high too fast. The body needs time to acclimatize itself as you climb to higher regions. This is an extremely complicated subject, and if you plan to climb Switzerland's highest peaks, read the study made by Princeton University at www.Princeton.edu/~oa/safety/altitude.html. Symptoms of altitude sickness include a severe headache, a feeling of nausea, dizziness, loss of appetite, and lack of sleep.

• Frostbite -- In winter, higher elevations might also cause frostbite. Wet clothes, wind chill factor, and extreme cold can cause frostbite. Some people with poor circulation, such as those who suffer from diabetes, are particularly vulnerable. Precautions are advised -- no smoking, no drinking, good food, and adequate rest. As you proceed higher and higher, wear multiple layers of clothing, especially waterproof synthetics. Survive Outdoors, Inc., has frostbite prevention advice on its website at www.surviveoutdoors.com/reference/frostbite.asp.

• Snow blindness -- Snow blindness is caused by the exposure of your unprotected eyes to the ultraviolet rays of the sun. This often happens in Switzerland in conditions of great snow or ice, mostly at higher altitudes. It is usually prevented by wearing dark-lensed "glacier glasses," which are of the wraparound, side-shielded variety. Wear these glasses even if the sky is overcast, as ultraviolet rays can pass through masses of cloud formations.

Emergencies

Dial tel. 117 for the police (emergencies only), tel. 118 to report a fire, or tel. 144 for an ambulance. For roadside emergencies, call tel. 140. For accidents in the mountains, call Switzerland’s air rescue service, Rega tel. 1414.

Safety

The potential for specific threats or acts of violence involving American citizens in Switzerland is remote; nonetheless, travelers should always review their security practices and be alert to their surroundings. The Consular Agencies in Zurich and Geneva may close periodically to assess their security situations.

Switzerland has a low rate of violent crime. However, pickpocketing and purse snatching do occur in the vicinity of train and bus stations, airports, and some public parks. Liechtenstein has a low crime rate. Travelers may wish to exercise caution on trains, especially on overnight trains to neighboring countries. Even locked sleeping compartments can be entered by thieves. The loss or theft abroad of a passport should be reported immediately to the local police and your country's embassy or consulate.

If you are a victim of a crime, in addition to reporting to local police, contact your nearest embassy or consulate for assistance. The embassy/consulate staff can, for example, assist you in finding appropriate medical care, contact family members or friends, and explain how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of a crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you to understand the local criminal process and to find an attorney if needed.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

Vegetarian, Vegan, and Allergy-friendly Food—Vegetarians need never again settle for a limp veggie platter while their companions feast like kings. Vegetarian and vegan options are growing exponentially in number and caliber. Some top gourmet restaurants have exciting plant-based creations, and in cities, more health-minded fast-food-style joints and international eateries with built-in veggie options are popping up frequently. Travelers with food allergies can benefit, too, from this wave, which has also spurred a huge increase in new veg and allergen-free items at grocery stores. Many ski resorts, or anywhere international tourists congregate, have also expanded vegetarian choices, though more rustic places may stick to Swiss fare. Some classic Swiss meals naturally suit vegetarians, such as Wähe—a sweet or savory version of quiche—and fondue, raclette, or Älplermagronen (Swiss-style macaroni and cheese). For vegans, there’s potato Rösti, like hash browns; just make sure the kitchen doesn’t top it with cheese or an egg. And if you’re really stuck, pasta with vegan sauce is a standby that virtually every kitchen can put together in a pinch.

Active Pursuits

Here we've assembled a roundup of sports highlights -- some of the very best ways to get outdoors and enjoy Switzerland's magnificent scenery. Most activities can be enjoyed independently, but if you like to have someone else sweat the details, we've also listed some of the region's best outfitters.

Ballooning

Balloon rides over Switzerland are even more spectacular than those in France. Contact Buddy Bombard's Europe (tel. 800/862-8537 or 561/837-6610; www.buddybombard.com).

Biking

Biking is a great way to see the Swiss countryside. Erickson Cycle Tours offers some of the best bike tours in Switzerland, through the Alps and past lakes and valleys.

Curling & Skating

Curling—played by sliding a large, smooth stone along the ice at a mark (called the tee) 35m (115 ft.) away—is especially popular in Davos, Villars, Gstaad, and Zermatt. Ice-skating is one of the leading winter sports of Switzerland, and nearly all major resorts have natural ice rinks. Also, there are dozens of artificial ones, of which Davos has the best.

Fishing

In this relatively small country, there are at least 32,000km (20,000 miles) of rivers and streams, as well as 1,349 sq. km (526 sq. miles) of lakes. These waters are situated at heights between 210m and 1,965m (689-6,445 ft.) above sea level, and vary in configuration and fauna as much as in altitude. Such a wide choice of conditions certainly puts anglers on their mettle, for they're presented with a fascinating range of challenges. For those who know how to adapt themselves, there is excellent sport in store. Angling techniques and bait must be suited to the particular water one happens to be fishing. With few exceptions, fly-fishing, spinning, and ground fishing, with natural or artificial bait, are permitted in most waters. Trout can be found in most waters up to altitudes of 1,800m (5,904 ft.), and lake trout have been known to weigh up to 10 kilograms (22 lb.). Regulations vary from place to place, so to be sure you're legal; inquire at a hotel or local tourist office.

Golf

Switzerland's golf courses are located strategically so that, wherever you happen to be, you're likely to find a course nearby—and one within a wide range of altitudes. The lowest course is in Ascona, which lies a mere 210m (689 ft.) above sea level; among the highest are St. Moritz, at 1,692m (5,550 ft.), and Riederalp, at 1,920m (6,297 ft.). All the local clubs cater to visitors, who have the advantage of being able to play on weekdays while the locals earn their daily bread. If you left your clubs at home, a set can be rented locally. Should you want to improve your swing, "pros" are available, too.

For more information, contact the Swiss Golf Association. Another resource is the Swiss Golf Network, which includes information on all major golf courses in Switzerland.

Some of the top courses include Golf Club Davos, Golf Club Verbier, and Golf Club Interlaken-Unterseen.

Hiking

With 48,000km (29,760 miles) of well-marked and well-maintained walking paths, Switzerland is a Valhalla for hikers. The paths lead through alpine valleys, over lowlands, up hills to meadows, and into the heart of the Alps. Whether you choose a gentle walk or a rigorous trek, you're sure to see miles and miles of unspoiled beauty.

Many hotels offer walking or hiking excursions, with a serious hiking tour possibly entailing 4 to 7 hours of hiking each day. A specialist in walking and hiking tours is Mountain Travel Sobek. You can wander with this adventure company across the full landscape of Switzerland, from alpine mountains of the Bernese Oberland to lakeside vistas in Mediterranean-like Ticino.

Mountaineering

Recognizing the allure (and the very real dangers) of climbing up the rocky crags that dot the surface of Switzerland, the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC), founded in 1863, promotes mountaineering and ski tours in the high Alps. In addition to organizing alpine rescue services, the club lobbies politically to protect the alpine ecology. Working closely with equivalent associations in Austria, Germany, France, and Italy, SAC has built mountain huts at strategic spots throughout the country, often hauling in building supplies by helicopter during the short summer season when construction is possible. The huts are modest, with bunk rooms sleeping 10 to 20 people. You can reserve space online.

The organization is affiliated with mountain-climbing schools throughout the country, including branches in Andermatt, Champéry, Crans, Davos, Les Diablerets, Fiesch, La Fouly, Glarus, Grindelwald, Kandersteg, Klosters, Meiringen, Pontresina, Riederalp, Saas-Fee, Saas-Grund, Schwende, Tasch, Zermatt, and Zinal. Guides that are accredited by the Swiss Alpine Club are available at many other resorts as well, and usually remain in close contact with the staffs at the local tourist offices.

Skiing

Skiing in Switzerland, a tradition that goes back 2 centuries, is big business -- an estimated 40% of the tourist dollar is spent on it. There are more than 1,700 mountain railways and ski lifts, and ski schools, ski instructors, and the best ski equipment in the world are available throughout the country.

Switzerland, which faces heavy competition from Austria (for a complete guide to resorts in that country, see Frommer's Austria), has been called Europe's winter playground. What were once simple alpine farming villages have been transformed into bustling ski resorts, and there are more than 200 throughout the country. Nearly all of them have ski-rental shops.

All the cantons have skiing centers, but most are in the Bernese Oberland, the Grisons, and the Valais. The ideal ski season is from January to late March. At the very highest resorts, the season begins around mid-December. Even at some of the resorts at lower elevations, there is a ski season that begins before Christmas if there are suitable weather conditions and snow is adequate. February is the peak month, in which reservations are most difficult to come by.

Most slopes are nothing short of spectacular in Switzerland, as are the facilities, which cater to every type of skier from the beginner to the Olympic champion.

Europeans have always sought out family-oriented villages for inexpensive ski vacations, whereas Americans have traditionally preferred the more famous meccas such as St. Moritz and Gstaad. Happily, that is changing now, and many Americans (and Canadians) are choosing ski packages in the smaller alpine villages.

Be sure to familiarize yourself with the resort's signs before hitting the slopes. Obviously, avalanche zones are particularly important to learn.

Swiss Ski and Snowboard School is the most famous institution of its kind in Europe. Federally run, the organization provides onsite instruction for beginners as well as advanced skiers. The majority of instructors speak English and can be found at all major resorts.

Warning: Always carry plenty of sunscreen, even in winter. The reflection of sunlight off the snow is intense.

Cross-country skiing, or langlauf, is another popular sport, especially at St. Moritz, Pontresina, and Montana. You go at your own speed and are not at the whim of slope conditions. There are no age limits or charges for use of the well-marked cross-country trails.

From mid-December through March, you can get information on conditions in major Swiss ski areas by linking up with the Switzerland Tourism Office's snow report at www.myswitzerlandtourism.com.

The best ski resort for families is Arosa. It's very family-oriented and offers runs suitable for every level of skier, especially beginners. Most of the runs, however, are intermediate.

Expert skiers head for the resort of Zermatt. In just minutes, skiers can be more than 3,600m (11,800 ft.) up on the Klein Matterhorn. Zermatt claims that it can guarantee a skier a vertical drop of some 2,700m (8,850 ft.), regardless of the snowfall.

Beginning skiers, often those with families, find the resort of Grindelwald ideal, the best base for skiing the Jungfrau area. The resort offers cable cars, lifts, funicular railways, and more than 160km (100 miles) of downhill runs.

A great center for intermediates is the resort of Davos along with its twin resort of Klosters. The ski terrain at Davos extends for some 35km (22 miles) in a relatively sheltered valley floor. Of course, these resorts have peaks for the more daring expert skier but offer miles of easy terrain for the intermediate as well.

The chic resort of St. Moritz in the Engadine has more nightlife possibilities than most of the other resorts in Switzerland. All the major ski resorts have an active après-ski life, but St. Moritz offers more diversity, from pubbing to high casino action.

In a virtual ski valley, Verbier is ideal for early or late-season skiing. Its upper ski area, which culminates at Mont-Fort at 3,255m (10,676 ft.), is filled with a widely varied set of pistes.

For the Nonskier: Most resorts offer a host of other activities, such as sunbathing on mountain terraces, day hikes in the forest, sleigh rides, sightseeing excursions, and, of course, partying in the local bars and clubs. So if some of your family members ski and others don't, everyone will still be happy and entertained.

Snowboarding

All the resorts mentioned under skiing offer snowboarding. The best centers are Celerina, Grindelwald, Gstaad, Kandersteg, St. Moritz, Wengen, and Zermatt. However, the top snowboard resort of Europe is Davos, which offers ideal slope conditions, snowboard schools, and a snowboard hotel. The resort also hosts national and international snowboarding events. Snowboarders will find a wide range of equipment to hire in all the resorts mentioned, with the largest concentration of sports shops in Davos.

Spa Vacations

Switzerland has numerous resorts with natural curative springs. All the spas offer various treatments, along with Turkish baths, mud baths, whirlpools, exercise/weight-loss programs, anti-stress programs, massages, and diets.

For very specific data about individual spas, phone Great Spas of the World (tel. 800/SPA-TIME [772-8463] or 212/889-8170; www.greatspas.com).

For a spa vacation in Switzerland, one resort towers over all the rest -- chic St. Moritz in the Engadine. Its thermal springs were known 3,000 years ago. St. Moritz-Bad was the original spa resort lying at the base of the lake, although modern housing has spoiled much of its former character.

Money

Saving Money On Your Trip

This may sound harsh, but if you’re on a very tight budget, don’t go to Switzerland. Prices are terrifying for anyone who’s not coming from New York, San Francisco, or Reykjavik, and even hostel stays and basic groceries will bankrupt you faster than you expect. But if you’re willing to spend around 150CHF a day, you’ll find you get more for your money here than elsewhere: no shoddy accommodation, no wasting hours waiting for a bus or train, very few “tourist traps.”

• Many towns and regions, including Geneva, the Engadine and the entire canton of Ticino, offer hotel and holiday rental guests free public transit and steep discounts on attractions. If you’re traveling around a lot, it might therefore be cheaper to stay in a hostel or Airbnb than couch surf. Check your destination’s tourism website for the latest deals.
• In summer, head for the ski slopes. Resorts like St. Moritz, Davos-Klosters, and Arosa are dramatically cheaper (though still not “cheap”) during the warmer months, and overnight guests receive free transit on mountain railways and cable cars, a deal that could save ambitious hikers hundreds of francs.
• You can save a bundle simply by eschewing accommodation in your chosen resort for one of the villages right near it—Le Châble instead of Verbier, for example, or Samedan instead of St. Moritz. Your surroundings will likely be more atmospheric, and Swiss public transit will get you into town in minutes.
• If you can, cook your own dinners and pack picnic lunches. Larger cities and towns have weekly farmers markets that are fun to peruse, but supermarkets like Coop, Migros, and Spar carry local products as well. Just remember to stock up before all the shops close on Sunday.
• We mentioned this in the last chapter, but it bears repeating: Unless it’s an emergency, don’t buy bottled water! Swiss tap water is delicious and free-flowing, and if you carry a reusable canteen on a city walk or an alpine hike, you’ll be able to refill it from one of the country’s thousands of public fountains.

Fast Facts

Business Hours—Banks and many business offices are open Monday through Friday, from around 8:30am to 4:30pm (closed on legal holidays). Stores usually keep longer hours and are open Saturdays, especially in more populated areas. In many places, stores are open later, until 8 or 9pm, one day a week. Some businesses close for lunch from around noon until 2pm. In bigger cities, train stations will have at least a shop or two and a pharmacy, or even a whole shopping center, that are open later in the evening and on Sundays. Some smaller train stations have mini-markets open 7 days, and if you’re really desperate on a Sunday, you can usually find at least a small convenience store open at a gas station. Museums are often closed on Mondays, and like stores, stay open later one night per week but otherwise usually close around 5pm.

Doctors—Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency-room visit.

Drinking—Teenagers can legally buy wine and beer from age 16 in Switzerland, and higher-proof spirits from age 18. You can buy all of the above at supermarkets and even mini-markets and gas stations.

Drug Laws—Though a 2018 study outed Zurich as Europe’s weekend cocaine capital based on trace amounts in wastewater, penalties for illegal drug possession can be severe in Switzerland. For cannabis, however, up to 10 grams is considered negligible, and there’s no penalty for possessing that small amount. Cannabis products containing less than 1 percent of the narcotic THC are legal and are sold openly.

Electricity—Switzerland’s voltage is 230 volts, AC (50 cycles), while the U.S. is on a 110-volt AC (60 cycles) system. You’ll need an adaptor for your plug for devices from the U.S., U.K,. Australia, and some other countries. Most blow dryers and other gadgets are dual-voltage, so you can use them with just a plug adaptor; if they’re not dual voltage, you’ll also need a transformer. You can find these items at electronics stores, luggage shops, and airports, or your hotel might be able to lend them to you.

Embassies & Consulates—Most embassies are located in the national capital, Bern; some nations maintain consulates in other cities such as Geneva. There's an Australian consulate in Geneva at Chemins des Fins 2 9 tel. 022/799-91-00). The Canadian embassy is at 88 Kirchenfeldstrasse, Bern (tel. 031/357-32-00). New Zealand has no embassy in Switzerland, but there's a consulate in Geneva at Chemin des Fins (tel. 022/929-03-50). The embassy of the United Kingdom is at Thunstrasse 50, Bern (tel. 031/359-77-00) and there is a British consulate in Geneva at 37-39, rue de Vermont (tel. 022/918-24-00). The embassy of the United States is located at Jubilaumstrasse 93, Bern (tel. 031/357-70-11), with consulates in Zurich at Dufourstrasse 101 (tel. 031/499-29-60) and in Geneva at Versonnex 7 (tel. 022/840-51-60).

Emergencies—Dial tel. 117 for the police (emergencies only) and tel. 118 to report a fire.

Insurance—Don’t let accidents ruin your trip, from lost luggage to car crashes. We recommend the following online marketplaces for insurance: SquareMouth.com, InsureMyTrip.com, and TripInsurance.com. All three allow users to quickly and easily compare policies from different, vetted travel insurance companies. We find the user interface at SquareMouth most intuitive, but all three are excellent resources.

Language—Switzerland is a multilingual country, and kids start learning at least two new languages before they finish primary school. Almost half the population uses more than one language on the regular. Switzerland’s four official languages are: German, which is spoken by 63 percent of the population—but usually in a version of the Swiss-German dialect; French, the first language of 22.7 percent; Italian, spoken by 8.1 percent; and Romansch, the primary language of just 0.5 percent of the people. English is all over the tourism industry and spoken in many others. Even if you want to practice German or French, some multilingual Swiss person will probably jump right in with practically perfect English.

Legal Aid—The government advises foreigners to consult their embassy or consulate in case of a dire emergency, such as an arrest. Even if your embassy or consulate declines to offer financial or legal help, it will generally offer advice on how to obtain help locally.

Mail—Mailing a letter or postcard of up to 100 grams, or about 3.5 ounces, costs 1CHF for "A-Post," or priority mail, within Switzerland; 1.50CHF within Europe; and 2CHF overseas, including to North America or Australia and New Zealand. Swiss Post’s website (www.post.ch) provides most essential information in English.

Newspapers & Magazines—Swiss papers are published in German, French, or Italian. Most bigger kiosks in major cities stock the British dailies, plus such major English-language publications as the Wall Street Journal, New York Times, Time and The Economist.

Pharmacies—Pharmacies, or Apotheke, have signs with a green cross and keep similar hours to other businesses: roughly 9am to 6pm during the week and 9am to 4pm on Saturdays. Bigger train stations and airports usually have a pharmacy that keeps longer hours and opens on Sundays. SOS-Pharmacy (www.sos-pharmacie.ch) lets you search for the nearest pharmacy by punching in your location and give a phone number for emergencies in a sidebar to the right of the page. Note: The text in the sidebar is only in Swiss languages, but the main website has text in English.

Prostitution—The consumption and performance of sex work has been legal in Switzerland since 1942, though local branches of government may have their own regulations. Bigger cities have red-light districts. Zurich has set up some drive-in boxes outside the city center to lessen on-street prostitution.

Senior Travel—Discounts on hotels, restaurants, or tourist attractions are sometimes available for seniors in Switzerland, but you may have to ask. To qualify, women must be 64 or over, men 65 or over.

Smoking—Smoking is illegal in public buildings and restaurants, but legal outside. In some regions, you can find restaurants and bars with special smoking rooms. You’ll see them indicated as a fumoir or Raucherlokal.

Student Travel—An International Student Identity Card (ISIC) qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. See www.istc.org to get one online or find a local office where you can get one, such as an STA Travel (www.statravel.com; tel. 800/781-4040 in North America). The card is valid for 12 months. If you’re not a student but still under 30, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same organization. Many cities also offer discounts for students and young adults.

Taxes—A value-added tax (VAT) of 7.7 percent is added to bills.

Telephones & Area Codes—

To call Switzerland:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.
2. Dial the Swiss country code: 41.
3. Dial the city code, dropping the first zero, and then the number.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Switzerland, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial 1811 if you’re looking for a number in Switzerland. City area codes must be included, preceded by a zero, even when dialing within the country. To call a Basel number from Zurich, for example, dial 061 followed by the seven-digit number.

Time—Switzerland’s clocks are usually 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States, and 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. However, because Switzerland and the U.S. switch their clocks every spring and fall during different weeks, the time difference is sometimes only 5 hours for a few weeks a year.

Tipping—Tipping isn’t necessary, but it is appreciated. It’s customary to round up the bill or add a tip of up to 10 percent. Any more than that, and a confused server might chase you to return your money, thinking you actually forgot your change. Give it directly to the service person or in a tip jar; don’t just leave it on the table.

Toilets—Public toilets are often shockingly clean. Depending on the part of Switzerland, public restrooms may be WC called (water closet), Toiletten, toilettes, or gabinetti. Women’s rooms may be designated for Damen, Frauen, Signore, Donne, Femmes, or Dames; and men’s rooms may be labeled Herren, Männer, Signori, Uomini, Hommes, or Messieurs. Public restrooms can be found at parks, bus stations, railway terminals, and cable-car platforms. If these aren’t handy, use the toilets in cafes and shops. Most public toilets are not free, costing around 1CHF to 2CHF. You can search for nearby public toilets at www.wc-guide.ch, which also lets you filter for disabled-friendly restrooms.

Websites and Apps—Following are some of our favorite sites to help you plan your adventures and get a deeper understanding of “Swissness”: We can’t picture life without the railway operator SBB’s app for schedules and buying tickets. Uber (www.uber.com and app) can be handy. Many local transport networks have their own app, in case you’re staying in one town for at least a few days. www.myswitzerland.com is Switzerland Tourism’s platform, and it is loaded with info and links to apps for Alpine passes, mountain conditions, city guides, coupons, and hikes. Individual regions also have helpful websites. SchweizMobil, or SwitzerlandMobility (www.schweizmobil.ch), is a non-profit promoting mobility with motors. It’s got maps and heaps of info in English on hikes, bicycle trails and service stations, canoeing and more on the web and an app. www.swissfamilytravel.com and www.swissfamilyfun.com are go-tos for families, though many tips are universal. The latter focuses more on the Zurich area and on detailed hiking tips. Swissinfo.ch is Swiss Broadcasting Corporation’s 10-language service for Swiss-centric background, news, and features, also in app form. A joint service of the three branches of Swiss government, www.ch.ch explains Swiss laws, government, taxes, and other practical necessities in English. And of course, you can find expert advice at www.frommers.com/destinations/switzerland

When to Go

The best time to visit depends on your personal relationship with snow: If you fantasize about skiing powdery pistes or just the après-ski, Alpine Switzerland is a winter wonderland. MySwitzerland.com posts a list of season opening and closings at various resorts. Winter days are short, but brightened by the lights of Christmas markets and festivals like Fasnacht.

Spring can be fickle, with blossoms making appearances in March only to be chilled by a surprise snowstorm in April. Milder temperatures are more reliable from around mid-May to September. In some mountainous areas, however, summer season doesn’t kick off until perhaps June, with certain trails still snowbound and inaccessible before then.

Around mid-June to early September is peak time for river and lake swims. Hiking can be a pleasure most of the year in the right spot, but especially so from around April or May through October. South of the Alps, it can be significantly warmer year-round. Bear in mind that air conditioning is far from ubiquitous, so summer can get hot and sticky, though less humid than in the U.S. That said, Swiss summers can have cool spells. Rain can fall any time of year. And if you go up a mountain, temperatures can drop dramatically within minutes.

Bottom line: Swiss weather can be unpredictable, so plan for everything, and follow one of the most enduring nuggets of traveler wisdom: Wear layers.

Escorted Tours & Independent Package Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything: airfare, hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

There are many escorted-tour companies to choose from, each offering transportation to and within Switzerland, prearranged hotel space, and such extras as bilingual tour guides and lectures.

Tour Operators

Organizations that offer both escorted and package tours are Abercrombie & Kent, Trafalgar Tours, Globus & Cosmos, Grand Circle Travel, and Connection Tours.

For river cruises (also barge tours), a most reliable agency for both Switzerland and Germany is Viking River Cruises.

Outfitters

Be it rafting, canoeing, sea kayaking, sailing, biking, hiking, paragliding, or horse-and-wagon trips, Eurotrek has a tour for you. All ages, tastes, and levels of fitness participate in these tours, from absolute beginners to experienced athletes. The outfit uses skilled travel guides, instructors, skippers, and coach drivers. Rafting adventures, for example, are arranged in the Bernese Oberland or on the Lütschine, the wild river at the foot of the Eiger and Jungfrau. Sailing trips are arranged on both Lake Thun and Lake Maggiore, and horse-and-wagon treks explore both the Emmental and the Jura in covered wagons. You can bungee jump in the alpine regions around Davos, or book a 3-day bike tour through the Ticino.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Certain hotels, restaurants, or even tourist attractions offer senior discounts. Of course, these establishments prefer you to pay full price unless you speak up and specifically request a senior discount. Time and time again you might be denied, and then, on one day of travel, you might be granted two or three discounts in a row. It's a mixed bag.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

LGBT Travelers—On the whole, Switzerland is tolerant and gay-friendly, especially in more urban and diverse areas. Zurich, Geneva, and Basel are the centers of gay life in Switzerland, although ski resorts such as Zermatt, Lenzerheide, and Arosa are also popular destinations (mostly in winter), even hosting gay ski weeks. Italian-speaking Ticino held its first Gay Pride event in 2018. The national organization for gays is Pink Cross, based in Bern (www.pinkcross.ch, in German, French, and Italian; tel. 031/372-33-00).

Zurich actively courts the gay and lesbian markets and hosts some LGBT events, but away from such sophisticated meccas, it should be noted that rural Switzerland remains conservative, and open displays of homosexuality may be frowned upon. Incidentally, the age of consent in Switzerland is 16 for both boys and girls.

In French-speaking Switzerland, Dialogai in Geneva (www.dialogai.org; tel. 022/906-40-40) offers information in French about gay and lesbian travel in this sector of the country.

Tips for Families

Traveling with young ones can be daunting, but Switzerland is by and large very family friendly. Kids and families are increasingly catered to with amazing playgrounds in the mountains, workshops at museums, and facilities at family-oriented hotels. Every season brings fairs and festivals. But that’s just the icing on the cake. A lot of Switzerland’s glory is outdoors, where kids and parents can have a good time doing the same activity, and kids can let off energy.

During urban explorations, too, you’re rarely far from somewhere to play. Some cities offer free scavenger-hunt-style games or urban golf. Many towns have drop-in family centers with playrooms and inexpensive coffee and snacks. Also, ask any parent you meet which cafes have a play corner—there’s usually at least one—and keep an eye out for the restaurants of supermarket chains Coop and Migros. They very often have a decent-sized play area as well as lower-priced food and kids meals in a casual setting (read: a little noise allowed). Those stores are also good bets for baby supplies and snacks.

A note of caution for children 2 years old and under: Some advice holds that they shouldn’t stay at very high elevations and that rapid ascents and descents can be uncomfortable. As on a plane, it’s good to help your little one swallow more with a drink or pacifier. You might want to check with your doctor if you plan to visit the mountains.

On Swiss airlines, you must request a special menu for children at least 24 hours in advance. If baby food is required, however, bring your own and ask a flight attendant to warm it to the right temperature.

Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, bottle warmer, and a car seat (in Switzerland, car seats are legally required for children 7 or younger).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Switzerland still has work to do to bring more infrastructure up to international standards, but it has made strides. Many buildings in old towns remain inaccessible, but newer buildings are required to meet certain standards. Most museums and major tourist attractions are accessible, and many trails and routes shared by hikers and bikers suit wheelchairs, too. Some hotels are nominally accessible, but it’s essential to contact them before booking to ensure they really have the facilities you need (there may be no stairs, for example, but the shower might still have a ledge that creates a barrier). It’s a good idea at restaurants, too, to call ahead to make sure they’re accessible and to make a reservation at an appropriate table.

Not all, but most, public transport can accommodate people with impaired mobility. Many newer trams can be used without assistance, but some trams and most buses have a ramp that the driver can open on demand. Stand near the front of the bus or tram stop so you can flag down the driver when she pulls up to the stop so you can request the ramp. You’ll also need to tell the driver the stop where you will get out.

To travel by rail, call tel. 0800/007-102 at least 1 hour before your train to request assistance getting on or off. SBB can also advise on the best train to take. If calling from outside Switzerland, the number is tel. +41/51/225-78-44. Most trains have at least one car and bathroom that’s wheelchair accessible. Some trains are accessible without assistance at one station, but not another, so ask the SBB and plan ahead.

Mobility International Switzerland (www.mis-ch.ch; tel. 062/212-67-40) provides information on many facets of travel without barriers. Switzerland Tourism (www.myswitzerland.com) has links to sites listing barrier-free hotels and hostels, and local tourist boards can point you to resources like wheelchair-accessible taxis wherever you’re staying. Europcar (www.europcar.ch; tel. 0848/80-80-99) rents vehicles equipped to transport wheelchairs as passengers. With advance notice, large car rental companies like Hertz may be able to supply a hand-controlled vehicle.

Eurokey (www.eurokey.ch) gives access to some 2,400 special facilities such as accessible toilets and lifts. You can get the key online or at certain locations, and must provide a certificate verifying seriously limited mobility, visual impairment, chronic bowel or bladder disorders, or wearing a stoma.

Calendar of Events

Towns big and small hold all kinds of events, traditional or sporty. You can find a list of thousands of happenings at MySwitzerland.com, but here are just a few special ones. If you have a chance, attend a tournament of one of Switzerland’s traditional sports, Schwingen or Hornussen.

JANUARY

Vogel Gryff Festival (The Feast of the Griffin), Basel. The "Wild Man of the Woods" appears on a boat, followed by a mummers' parade. For more information, see www.basel.com. Mid-January.

FEBRUARY/MARCH

Basler Fasnacht, Basel. A noisy, 3-day party as parades of "cliques" in bizarre masks bury the town in confetti. See www.baslerfasnacht.info. First Monday after Ash Wednesday.

Luzern’s Fasnacht is 2 weeks of music and festivities wrapping up the week before Basel’s. Other towns throughout the country also celebrate Fasnacht, but mostly on a smaller scale.

APRIL

Sechseläuten (Six O'Clock Bells), Zurich. Members of the guilds dress in costumes and celebrate the arrival of spring. The climax is the burning of Böögg, a snowman figure symbolizing winter. The speed at which his head explodes predicts how hot the summer will be. There are also children's parades. See www.zuerich.com (shows the parade route on a map). Early April.

MAY

Corpus Christi. Solemn processions in the Roman Catholic regions and towns of Switzerland. End of May.

JUNE

Art Basel, Basel. The international art world’s VIPs congregate at the leading art show here, exhibiting works by more than 4,000 artists. Additional art-related events take place around the city, too. www.artbasel.com. One week, mid-June.

William Tell Festival, Interlaken. Performances of the famous play by Schiller. www.tellspiele.ch. June to September.

JULY

Fête de la Cité, Lausanne. Free festival with activities for all ages and concerts around the city. For information, see www.lausanne-tourisme.ch. July.

Montreux International Jazz Festival, Montreux. More than jazz, this festival features everything from reggae bands to African tribal chanters. Monster dance fests also break out nightly. The festival concludes with a marathon of world music. www.montreuxjazz.com. Lasts 2 weeks, starting late June or early July.

Züri Fäscht, Zurich. This summertime folk festival takes over the city with fairground revelry. Held every 3 years on the first weekend of July. www.zuerifaescht.ch.

AUGUST

National Holiday, nationwide. Think 4th of July. Look for fairs, fireworks, and Swiss flags a go-go starting July 31 to usher in the national holiday Aug 1. Farms across the country open their doors to host a brunch with their own products and pay tribute to Swiss customs. Must book ahead at www.brunch.ch (German, French, and Italian only).

Fêtes de Genève, Geneva. Highlights are flower parades, fireworks, and live music all over the city. For more information, visit www.fetes-de-geneve.ch. Early August.

Locarno Film Festival, Locarno. Pros and fans have descended on this Ticino town since 1946 to celebrate great filmmaking. Directors like Spike Lee and Jim Jarmusch had their international debut here. Details at www.locarnofestival.ch. Mid-August.

Lucerne Festival, Lucerne. Concerts, theater, art exhibitions, and street musicians. For more information, see www.lucernefestival.ch. Mid-August through mid-September.

Zurich Street Parade. Visitors flock to Zurich for a daylong techno/dance party and parade that takes over the entire city. You'll either want to book a hotel far in advance, or avoid this at all costs. Visit www.streetparade.ch. Early to mid-August.

SEPTEMBER

Cow processions, various Alpine villages. As autumn begins, cows are beautified with crowns of flowers and paraded down from the pastures by locals in traditional garb, usually accompanied by a market. Known as Alpabzug, Find information on www.myswitzerland.com. September to October.

Knabenschiessen, Zurich. Translated, this could mean "shooting boys," but it’s actually the other way around—boys shooting. And these days, girls join the shooting competition, which dates back to the 17th century, too. Not everyone shoots a rifle here, but crowds stream to Zurich’s largest annual fair, held in conjunction. Details at www.zuerich.com. Sat–Mon, early September.

OCTOBER

Autumn Festival, Lugano. A parade and other festivities mark harvest time. Little girls throw flowers from blossom-covered floats and oxen pull festooned wagons in a colorful procession. For information, call tel. 091/913-32-32 or visit www.lugano-tourism.ch. Early October.

Chestnut Festivals, Ascona and Ticino. The beloved chestnut is feted around the region, with one of the most popular festivals in Ascona. See www.ticino.com. Late September, early October.

Aelplerchilbi, Kerns and other villages of the Unterwalden Canton. Dairy workers and pasture owners join villagers in a traditional festival to mark the end of an alpine summer. www.obwalden-tourismus.ch. Late September to mid-November.

NOVEMBER

Zibelemärit, Bern. The famous "onion market" fair and folk festival. Visit www.bern.com for more information. Fourth Monday in November.

DECEMBER

Christmas Festivities and Market, throughout Switzerland. Ancient St. Nicholas parades and traditional markets are staged throughout the country to mark the beginning of Christmas observances, with a major one at Fribourg. Some other beloved Christmas markets are in Bremgarten, Einsiedeln, Montreux, and Basel. Early December through December 24.

L'Escalade, Geneva. A festival commemorating the failure of the duke of Savoy's armies to take Geneva by surprise on the night of December 11, 1602. Brigades on horseback in period costumes, country markets, and folk music are interspersed with Rabelaisian banquets, fife-and-drum parades, and torch-lit marches. Geneva's Old Town provides the best vantage point. See www.geneve.com. Three days and nights (nonstop) in early December.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Customs

Foreign visitors can bring up to 300CHF worth of items for personal use and gifts without having to pay tax or duty. This can include up to 5 liters of alcohol with less than 18 percent alcohol content by volume and one liter with more than 18 percent alcohol content by volume, and 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of other tobacco products. See www.ch.ch for further information.

Passports

Every traveler entering Switzerland must have a valid passport, although it's not necessary for North Americans to have a visa if they don't stay longer than 3 continuous months. For information on permanent residence in Switzerland and work permits, contact the nearest Swiss consulate.

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

• Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).
• Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
• Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
• New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Embassies & Consulates

Most embassies are located in the national capital, Bern; some countries maintain consulates in other cities, such as Geneva or Zurich. There’s an Australian consulate in Geneva at Chemins des Fins 2 (https://geneva.mission.gov.au; tel. 022/799-91-00). At the same address is the consulate of New Zealand (www.mfat.govt.nz; tel. 022/929-03-50). The Canadian embassy is at 88 Kirchenfeldstrasse, Bern (www.switzerland.gc.ca; tel. 031/357-32-00). The embassy of the United Kingdom is at Thunstrasse 50, Bern (www.gov.uk/world/organisations/british-embassy-berne; tel. 031/359-77-00) and there is a British consulate in Geneva at 37-39, rue de Vermont (tel. 022/918-24-00). The embassy of the United States is located at Sulgeneckstrasse 19, Bern (https://ch.usembassy.gov; tel. 031/357-70-11), with consulates in Zurich at Dufourstrasse 101 (tel. 031/357-70-11) and in Geneva at Rue Francois-Versonnex 7 (tel. 022/840-51-60).You can sign up to receive travel advisories by email from the U.S. Department of State (www.travel.state.gov).

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; tel. 132-782 in Australia; tel. 087/1230-0040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Tips on Accommodations

Hotels

In Swiss fashion, the bulk of hotels are decently clean and comfortable. The luxury segment is bursting with some of the finest hotels on the planet; after all, César Ritz came from Switzerland. On the other end of the spectrum, even a one-star hotel with the most limited of facilities can be reasonably comfortable and in a wonderful location.

All accommodations listed in this guide have private bathrooms unless otherwise noted.

Can You Keep Your Cool?

Be aware that many hotels in Switzerland do not have air-conditioning, though they may provide a fan. If sleeping in summer heat would trouble you, check ahead with the hotel to be sure. While a decade or two ago A/C was not a required amenity, Switzerland, alas, has been affected by climate change. The average temperature has been increasing, there has been less snow, and the number of hot and sunny days has risen dramatically. Still, a number of fine properties across all price points are A/C-free and most of the year, it’s not (yet) an issue.

Keeping Costs Down

To save money, try these rules of thumb:

• Choose your season carefully. Demand (and, typically, prices) are highest in the mountain areas around Christmas and New Year, and when Swiss and European schools have break in February and mid-July–mid-August. Cities stay busy with business travel and depend less on tourism, so fluctuations are milder, though prices may skyrocket during major events. Often, the lowest rates apply midweek; or conversely, in business-oriented hotels, on the weekend.
• Buy a money-saving package deal. A travel package combining airfare and a hotel stay for one price may be a bargain. But be wary of packages that include meals and other extras, since these might be less expensive if purchased separately or outside the hotel. The usual booking websites (Expedia, Travelocity, and the like) offer packages.
• Shop around. Once you’ve done some shopping around online, contact the property directly and ask for the lowest possible rate—it’s often that simple, and don’t be shy about asking for a better deal. Or at least check the hotel’s website, as many guarantee the best rate. Then keep shopfping—most reservations are fully refundable almost to time of check-in, so if you find a better price go back to the hotel of choice and renegotiate.
• Choose a chain. With some exceptions, we have not listed mass-volume chain hotels in this guide. In our opinion, they tend to lack the character and local feel that many independently run hotels bring to the travel experience. That said, you may be able to use reward points or some type of corporate discount at these chains. And some are making greater efforts to incorporate a unique flair and reflect their local surroundings. Ibis (www.ibis.com) hotels are often a decent, lower-priced urban option.
• Consider private B&B’s and other alternatives to hotels. See below for more on this type of accommodation.

Alternatives to Hotels

Bed & Breakfasts—The Swiss concept of a bed-and-breakfast differs from that in many English-speaking lands. In Switzerland, B&Bs are often more like small hotels than private homes. You can find both types at Bed and Breakfast Switzerland (www.bnb.ch). Switzerland Tourism (www.myswitzerland.com) also has about 790 B&Bs listed, as well as several accommodations in igloos, weather conditions pending (yes, igloos. Bring thermal underwear).

Alpine Huts—Stay in a wooden or stone Alpine cabins, and you might just be moved to try yodeling. Luckily, there probably won’t be many people around to hear. Switzerland Tourism hosts the booking site https:// alp.holidaybooking.ch with rustic rentals—some on farms, some historic, some fairly rough, and others luxe.

Chalet, House & Apartment Rentals—Local tourist offices or Switzerland Tourism can provide listings of apartments and chalets to rent. Or there’s always Airbnb (www.airbnb.com), which offers everything from cheap single rooms to plush apartments. Alternatively, find vacation homes to rent through Switzerland-based company Interhome (www.interhome.ch), which represents some 40,000 quality-controlled properties in 32 countries.

Camping—Another way to get the most out of the region’s natural bounty and save a franc or two is camping. Some campgrounds also have bungalows or rooms to rent as well as other equipment. Camping.ch (www.camping.ch; tel. 044/360-80-30) lists close to 400 sites, with lots of information in English. If your focus is the outdoors, you could even rent a camper van from McRent (www.mcrent.eu; tel. 041/761-40-45) or MyCamper (www.mycamper.ch; tel. 076/823-67-11) and use public transport for the odd city adventure.

Farm Stays—Hit the hay—or a regular bed, if you prefer—on a farm via Agrotourism Switzerland (www.myfarm.ch). Some have a focus on wine or riding, say, some have you sleep on a bed of straw (Schlafen im Stroh) and several let you do farm chores such as caring for the animals. These can be terrific for families, and a way to experience the farm culture that is very dear to the Swiss.

Youth Hostels—Some of the roughly 50 Swiss Youth Hostels (www.youthhostel.ch) don’t at all jibe with the old image of youth hostels as bare-bones sardine boxes for partying backpackers. Many offer private rooms in addition to dorms and are in prime locations. Some are in castles, or even boast wellness facilities. They aren’t just for youth, but some are exceptionally family friendly, with baby equipment and play areas, and wheelchair-accessible. They can fill up fast at peak travel times. You can also find some inexpensive independent hostels outside of the Swiss Youth Hostels system, but quality is mixed.

Getting There

By Plane

Switzerland’s central location in Europe makes it convenient for international flights. Intercontinental Zurich Airport (ZRH; www.zurich-airport.com) and Geneva’s Genève Aéroport (GVA; www.gva.ch) can be reached in less than 8 hours from North America’s east coast with daily flights. Both have rail stations right in the airports. No airlines fly nonstop to Switzerland from Australia, but several have service with just one stop. Zurich Airport has outstanding family facilities such as toys, cribs, microwaves, and more. There’s also an outdoor observation deck with a playground (5CHF adults, 2CHF kids 10–16, kids 9 and under free. Note that it’s before security for flights, but a separate security check is required to enter, and no large luggage is permitted).

Arriving from points in Europe, EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (BSL; www.euroairport.com) expands the possibilities, with a good number of flights daily from London and the continent. Lugano Airport (LUG; www.luganoairport.ch) also has connections from Zurich.

Once you’re in Switzerland, your best bet for travel between cities is the train or car. In most cases, these will have you at your destination at least as quickly as flying, when you account for check-in and security. If you do want to fly within the country, Swiss (www.swiss.com; tel. 0848/700-700) offers connections throughout Switzerland and worldwide.

Tips for Finding Good Airfare

Book at the right time. It sounds odd, but you can save a good amount by booking domestic airfares 57 days in advance of departure. That figure comes from a study of 23 million airfare transactions that an industry group called the Airlines Reporting Corporation undertook in 2018. Book earlier than that, and you won’t have access to the lowest-priced seats, as the airlines only release them when they have an idea of how the plane is selling. Book too close to departure, and the airline knows they’ve “got you” and will charge more. As well, according to that same study, it was found that travelers who purchased their tickets on a Sunday or Saturday spent 19 percent less than those who did so on a weekday. Our guess why? Because corporate travel agents don’t tend to work on weekends, which would mean that the lion’s share of bookings on weekends are from leisure travelers, a group the airlines are more likely to try and woo with lower fares (it’s assumed that business travelers have to travel and so discounts are rarely offered to them).

Fly when others don’t and take an itinerary the business travelers don’t want. Those who fly Sunday, Tuesday, or Wednesday, and who stay over a Saturday night, generally pay less than those who fly at more popular times.

Do a smart Web search. Search engines such as Momondo.com and Skyscanner.net will search all of the discount sites as well as the airline sites directly, so that you get a broader and more impartial search.

Don’t be particular about airports. If one airport offers a substantially lower fare, it might be worth it to fly there and take a train to your intended destination.

Shop the seasons. Low-season airfares usually apply from November to mid-December and late December through March. Fares are slightly higher during shoulder season (Apr and May, and mid-Sept through Oct). High-season fares apply around June to mid-September.

By Car

The country is at the crossroads of Europe—many rail lines, road passes, and mountain tunnels lead to it. You can even drive all the way from Britain to Switzerland through Belgium or the Netherlands and then Germany, or—more expensively—by crossing the English Channel from Calais via tunnel, ferry, or Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) train. British drivers tend to prefer the former rather than paying expensive toll charges in France.

Cars travelling across borders must have a sticker or magnet with the abbreviation of the country where they’re registered. Switzerland’s abbreviation is CH for Confoederatio Helvetica, its Latin name.

By Train

Zurich is a major rail hub, with many links to major European cities. You can catch direct trains to Zurich from Germany (Munich, Frankfurt, Hamburg) via Deutsche Bahn (www.bahn.com), from Austria (Graz, Salzburg, Vienna; www.oebb.at), Italy via EuroCity Italia (Milan, Venice; www.trenitalia.com), and France (Paris, or Marseille to Geneva; www.tgv-lyria.com). The SBB (www.sbb.ch; tel. 0848/44-66-88), Switzerland’s train operator, also sells tickets for these routes.

TNightjet (www.nightjet.com) runs overnight sleeper trains to Zurich and Basel through Austria, one originating in Zagreb and another in Budapest. Overnight routes also carry passengers to Berlin and Hamburg. Prices start from 29€ per person for a seat if you book ahead (up to 180 days is permitted); tickets in sleeper cars (highest category) or couchettes cost more, and specially configured group or family couchette cabins start from 199€.

By Bus

Bus fare can be a bargain compared to many train tickets. Deutsche Bahn’s IC Bus (www.bahn.com) runs a route from Prague to Zurich via Munich. One-way fare starts around 30€ for a Super Sparticket. Another option is Flixbus (www.flixbus.com), which connects to numerous Swiss cities from diverse stations around Europe.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The Swiss have been sensitive to protecting their environment. In addition to the oldest and wildest national park of Europe, many newly opened regional nature parks are being set aside for future generations.

Switzerland even has volunteer "mountain cleaners," who sweep the landscape looking for garbage that careless tourists have left behind.

The country is also looking to the future, installing solar panels and recommending rail travel over flying. It's estimated that taking the train from London via Paris to Zurich rather than flying saves 176 kilograms of carbon dioxide emissions per person for the 966km (600-mile) journey.

More and more Swiss environmentalists are talking about keeping their splendid alpine peaks pristine. They need the words of critic John Ruskin, who said, "Mountains are the beginning and end of all natural scenery."

Swiss ecologists must guard against the impact of unbridled ski-lift development and exhaust fumes from motorized traffic, especially transalpine trucking.

Additionally, the Swiss fear the spread of vacation apartments springing up like a tourist housing sprawl, such as around Pontresina. The sprawl also plagues neighboring St. Moritz and other vacation centers in the Upper Engadine.

In Davos, one of the most famous of all ski resorts, visitors are urged not to drive cars into town, but take one of the fleet of buses moving skiers in winter or hikers in summer to the mountains.

For a true eco-friendly holiday, consider a stay on a Swiss farm, getting close to nature. Prices are lower than at most hotels, and you even have the option of working in the fields. For this type of holiday, check with the Verein Ferien auf dem Bauernhof (Swiss Holiday Farms Association).