Sicilian towns are full of casual eateries like this—barebones storefronts with open kitchens and plastic tables. Locals know the ones that serve the best food, and this simple, four-table room operated by an enthusiastic young husband-and-wife team is one of Ortigia’s hidden gems (it’s on a back street behind the Duomo). Chef Christian serves the specialties you’d encounter in a Sicilian home and he enhances the homey ambience as he chats from the kitchen while he prepares linguine al neonate (baby fish), fresh from the market fish baked with capers and olives, and a simple but delicious gnocchi alla Palermitiana, with eggplant, mozzarella, and tomatoes. Dinner is often followed by a complimentary glass of almond wine.