Caseificio Borderi, tucked in among piles of fresh fish in Ortigia’s morning market at 6 Via die Benedictis (tel. 329/985-2500), is a required stop on the food circuit for its huge selection of house-made cheeses, cured meats, olives, and wine; the staff hands out samples and makes delicious sandwiches (4€), paired with excellent wines by the glass. Another market stop is Fratelli Burgio, Piazza Cesare Battista 4 (tel. 0931/60069), where a tagliere (platter of cheeses and other antipasti) is a meal in itself.

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