This 70-some-year-old relic qualifies as historic in contemporary Tokyo, with an Art Deco facade and homey atmosphere that harks back to prewar Japan. Built in 1937 and serving as a research institute and then as living quarters for US occupation forces before becoming a hotel in 1954, it remains steadfastly old-fashioned, not much different from when it was a favorite retreat of writers like novelist Yukio Mishima. I prefer rooms in the main building, most with cherrywood furniture and fringed lampshades and some that are combination rooms with both tatami areas plus twin or double-size beds. For a splurge, there's a deluxe twin with its own Japanese garden. Across the street is a 1970 annex, with slightly cheaper standard rooms that are throwbacks to that era with their simple wood furniture, as well as renovated "Art Septo" rooms with window flower boxes and fancier furnishings. While not as conveniently located as other tourist hotels, this is a delightful, nostalgia-invoking place to stay, hidden on a hill near Meiji University and near restaurants, bookshops, and other student hangouts. And though small by Tokyo standards, this hotel has an impressive number of restaurants and bars, due, no doubt, to its popularity among steadfast local fans.