You won't find many places like this in Tokyo any more. In fact, "places" is the key word here, since Homeikan actually consists of three historic buildings, purchased long ago by the present owner's grandfather and clustered in a very traditional residential neighborhood. The Honkan (the main building) is the oldest, acquired by the family more than a century ago and listed as a "Tangible Cultural Property" since 2000. The Morikawa annex, a 5-minute walk away, isn't quite as old but has all the traditional elements of a classic inn. Across the street from the Honkan is my favorite, the Daimachi annex, which was built as the family home after World War II and has striking architectural details, from hallways inlaid with pebbles to tatami rooms that incorporate gnarled wood trim, bamboo lattice, or other natural features in their design. Daimachi also has a Japanese garden with a pond, along with simple tatami rooms for travelers on a budget. Rates include breakfast, but dinners are also available (except during the first night of your stay), served in the privacy of your room. English-speaking owner Koike-san says travelers who expect modern conveniences (like private bathrooms or Wi-Fi) will be happier elsewhere; for those in search of a ryokan experience in an historic setting, however, Homeikan fits the bill. It's hard to find, so be sure to print out the map on Homeikan's website.