In the early 20th century the Marquis de Vega-Inclán, a wealthy patron of the arts, bought this old house in the Jewish quarter under the misapprehension that it had once belonged to El Greco. The museum he founded, to promote the painter’s work and show how life was led in his era, started a trend for a type of art-cum-folk museum you’ll see all over Spain: bogus but effective nonetheless. The museum got an extensive makeover ahead of the 400th anniversary of El Greco’s death in 2014 and is a delight, with period gardens, Mudéjar cave rooms, and a good collection of El Greco’s later works. Among the most notable pieces are a full set of portraits of the apostles (irresistible postcards of which are available in the shop), the retablo of San Bernardino, and the celebrated View and Plan of Toledo. It’s fascinating how the development of the museum, as well as the works it contains, has become part of Toledo’s story.