Circling Montana's Flathead Lake

Two Montanas welcome you in the Flathead Valley. One is the fragile beauty of Lake Flathead and its shores, the other is a town like Kalispell, which glories in its too-many gambling places and a tough guy reputation, where the biggest lodging is called the Outlaw Hotel, casinos have names like The Grizzly Den and ladies like to shoot at plywood replicas of the United Nations flag.

But you can forget Kalispell, and head right out from its Glacier International Airport to the Flathead Lake, 20 miles south. Around one of the nation's prettiest bodies of water (the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi), you'll find a wildlife refuge, a state forest, the Flathead Indian Reservation, a national forest, four state parks, and an island reserved for wild horses. And don't forget to have a picnic lunch lakeside, perhaps with buffalo meat, cherries in season, and a really good local wine (the latter which even Montanans don't appreciate sufficiently).

I recommend taking US 93 to the lake's northern edge near Somers, then turning east on State 82 to State 35, and then to Bigfork. Drive down the eastern shore of the lake in the morning, with the sun to your left, the lake to your right. Have lunch or a picnic near Polson or thereabouts, then drive up US 93 on the western shore in the afternoon, the sun to your left, and the lake to your right. If you're coming from Glacier National Park or Whitefish, try to avoid Kalispell entirely by taking State 206 south from Columbia Falls. The area between Creston and Bigfork is absolutely lovely (the best of the rolling and vast Flathead Valley), and that's even before you see the lake. The best scenery of all is that overlooking the Flathead Lake from the highway (US 93) between Big Arm and Rollins, on the western shore.

Costs here are not high, though they do rise precipitously in summer. Even then, you can get by on as little as $52.35 per day. Achieve this by taking a $65 double room at the Bigfork Hotel or Marina Cay Resort, and having a $3.95 biscuits and gravy breakfast at Stoner Creek Café, a $4.95 pasta lunch at the splendid KwaTaqNuk Resort, and a $10.95 meatloaf dinner at Lakeside's Bluestone Grill.

Highlights

Try to get to Wild Horse Island, one of the nation's largest inland islands, operated by the state as a wildlife preserve. The only way to reach the island is by small boat in the daytime only. On the island, you'll find, in addition to a few wild horses, bighorn sheep, mule deer, and some coyote. You can even picnic here, but be sure to clean up thoroughly before you leave, and take the garbage with you. Try Pointer Scenic Cruises in Bigfork, phone 406/837-5617. Alternatively, see Flathead Boat Rentals and pilot your own boat. Contact them on Highway 93 in Somers or Polson, phone 800/358-8046 or 406/883-3900, Web site www.flatheadboatrentals.com.

Drive around the lake slowly, taking in the cherry orchards on the eastern shores, the more desert-like foothills on the western. Visit the Flathead Indian Reservation if you have time, or the Swan River State Forest, located south of the Swan Lake National Wildlife Refuge. Hikers might want to try out trails in the Flathead National Forest, on the west side, but the most famous trails are in the Jewel Basin, just north of Bigfork (over 30 miles). Get maps and other information at the US Forest Service office in Bigfork (phone 406/837-5081).

Sailing on this large lake can be fun, kayaking also. Rentals are available from Glacier Sea Kayaking (it's the type of kayak, apparently, not the location!) in Whitefish, phone 406/862-9010; or Dayton Yacht Harbour, Box 30, Dayton, phone 800/775-2990 or 406/849-5423, Web site www.montanasailing.com.

If you prefer to just hitch a ride, contact Questa Yacht Charters & Chandlers in Bigfork, at 406/837-4391. This firm owns two beautiful sailing ships, the Questa (built 1929) and her sister the Nor'easter (1928). There are less than a dozen Q class boats remaining in the world today, and two are here, after winning trophies off Marblehead, Massachusetts 60 years ago and in Lake Michigan 30 years later. Rates are $20 for adults, $16 for seniors and children under 12. A sunset cruise with free wine and beverages costs $7 more, no children under 12 allowed.

Another way to see things is on horseback. Big Sky Rides offers scenic guided excursions on gentle horses along Ashley Creek, one hour costing $25, two hours $40. They also offer horse-drawn hayrides, carriage rides, trolley rides, Wild West cookouts, and horse camps. Phone the outfitters at 406/755-RIDE in Kalispell, 750 Foys Lake Road.

You may see buffalo at the National Bison Range, 20 miles south of Polson. Part of the US Fish & Wildlife Service, the huge area (18,500 acres) can be toured by car or on foot. Other animals here include elk, deer, black bear, and coyote. Birds include eagles, hawks, bluebirds, ducks, and geese. Contact the range at 132 Bison Range Road, Molese MT 59824, phone 406/644-2211.

The tribal traditions of the Kootenai and Salish peoples are protected in The People's Center (Sqelixw/Ag#smakni.k' is their way of spelling it) in Pablo on the Flathead Indian Reservation, phone 406/675-0160, Web site www.peoplescenter.org. If you are here the third weekend of October, you can see the War Dance Championships at St. Ignatius, phone 406/745-4572. In July, there are pow wows of the Salish tribe (Independence Day week) and Standing Arrow (third weekend). The Flathead Indian Museum is also in St. Ignatius, phone 406/745-2951. Finally, also on the reservation is the St. Ignatius Mission, a national historical site, built in 1891 by Native American converts to the Roman Catholic faith. There are 58 beautiful murals (over 70 years old) here, and a small museum. On Highway 93, just south of the Bison Range, no phone.

The Polson-Flathead Historical Museum is open from Memorial Day through Labor Day only, daily, and is worth the detour if only to see Calamity Jane's saddle and two fine stagecoaches/carriages. 708 Main Street, phone 406/883-3049.

More commercial, but said to be owned by Native Americans, is Rising Wolf Traders, with museum-quality reproductions, hard to find items, jewelry, tribal artifacts, wood carvings, trade beads, and more. Contact the store at 201 2nd Avenue East, Polson MT 59860 (corner of Highway 93), one block south of the KwaTaqNuk Lodge, phone 406/883-4627.

Hotels

Hotel Bigfork is a modest place, but its location cannot be beaten. The hotel/restaurant stands right at the entrance to the village, and on the lake. They charge just $65 to $85 for the six double rooms, which are plain but clean. (Ask for one of the two rooms with sliding doors to a deck overlooking the lake.) The big problem is the noise from the downstairs sports bar and restaurant, a favorite with locals and visitors alike. Contact them at 425 Grand Drive, Bigfork MT 59911, phone 406/837-7377.

The Marina Cay Resort is also in Bigfork, and offers double rooms from $65 to $99. Sited right on the water, it has large rooms (125 of them), three restaurants, pool, hot tubs, and aquatic facilities (rentals of boats, parasailing, fishing, the works). Contact them at 180 Vista Lane, Bigfork MT 59911, phone 800/436-6516 or 406/837-5861, fax 406/837-1118, e-mail mcr@marinacay.com, Web site www.marinacay.com.

Owned by Native Americans of the Kootenai and Salish tribes is the KwaTaqNuk Resort at Flathead Bay, the best place to stay on the lake. With 112 large and nicely decorated rooms (some non-smoking), a fine restaurant, lounge, gift shop, art gallery (featuring local and tribal artists), indoor and outdoor pools, a whirlpool, a casino, and marina, this resort has everything you need for a vacation. They even rent out boats and organize lake cruises. Double rooms off-season run from $66 to $78 cityside, $86 to $96 lakeside. In season (mid June to mid-September), the prices for a cityside double start at $106, for lakeside from $135. Contact them at 303 US Highway E93 East, Polson MT 59860, phone 800/528-1234 or 406/883-3636, fax 406/883-5392, e-mail bwktn@mail.nw.centurytel.net, Web site www.kwataqnuk.com. They are affiliated with the Best Western chain.

If you must stay in Kalispell for some reason, the best moderately priced lodging is the Four Seasons Motor Inn, with double rates of only $40 to $65 off-season, $60 to $85 in summer. Rooms are of moderately large size, well kept and brightly decorated. Contact the inn at 350 N. Main Street, Kalispell MT 59901, phone 800/545-6399 or 406/755-6123, fax 406/755-1604, Web site www.fourseasonsmotorinn.com.

Restaurants

In Lakeside on Flathead's northwestern shore, you couldn't do better than taking breakfast or lunch at the Stoner Creek Café & Deli, a newish place (since 2000) in the Village Commons Building, off Route 93 and up the hill from the Blacktail Grocery Store. Open from 7 to 3 daily, the café offers comfort food with a twist, including a "chili egghead" breakfast, served with homefries, at $5.95, or for lunch, a Flathead Philly (grilled chicken or steak with fixin's on a warm hoagie roll) also at $5.95. Cheapest breakfast is choice of three items, including biscuits and gravy at $3.95, cheapest lunch a burger at $4.25. They are at 306 Stoner Loop Road, Lakeside, phone 406/844-2599.

Under the same management as the Stoner Creek Deli & Café is the more upscale Bluestone Grill & Tap, next door, open for dinner only from 5, but with a late night menu (which translates as "until nobody is here," the owner says). Bluestone Meatloaf or pasta prima cost only $10.95, but other dishes average around $13.95. Main courses come with a choice of soup or small salad. There are nearly 30 beers available, eight of them on tap. Live music most Fridays. You'll find them at 306 Stoner Loop Road, Lakeside, phone 406/844-BLUE, Web site www.bluestonegrill.com.

The Bigfork Inn is located in the town of the same name on the northeastern shore of Flathead Lake, and is open daily (except Thanksgiving and Christmas days) for dinner only (the lounge from 4). It has earned a good reputation in the valley for its eclectic menu, featuring German-inspired dishes as well as comfort foods like chicken fried steak, with gravy, for $12 or haus schnitzel at the same price. Fancier items cost more, courses averaging about $13 for chicken, $17 for seafood. On Bigfork's main street, resembling a Swiss chalet, with red shutters. Contact them at PO Box 697, Bigfork, phone 406/837-6680.

You will surely enjoy lunch at the KwaTaqNuk Resort, though dinner may be too pricey. Sit on the deck outside and have a shrimp Louis for $7.95, or half a Louis and soup for the same price, half a chef salad and soup for $6.50. A burger with fries goes for just $4.95 or pasta dishes from $6.50. Contact the KwaTaqNuk Resort in Polson, 303 US Highway 93 East, phone 800/528-1234 or 406/883-3636.

If you want to make up a picnic for yourself, which I highly recommend, consider M&S Meats & Sausages, in Rollins, on the western shore of the lake. Over 25 varieties of sausage, honey cured hams, slab bacon, and lots of buffalo meat, including jerky. They also have groceries, ice, beer and wine. Right on Route 93 in Rollins, phone 406/844-3414.

Buy local cherries along the eastern shore of the lake (in season), and be sure to visit the Mission Mountain Winery in Dayton on the western shore to pick up one or more bottles of excellent wine. Their tasting room and gift shop are open daily May 1 through October 31. Since 1984, they have been winning awards for the Johannesburg Riesling ($7.99, which my traveling companions raved about in a blind tasting), Muscat Canelli, chardonnay, pinot noir ($32), merlot ($18.99), cabernet sauvignon ($14.99), cream sherry, port and even a sparkling wine. They have special sales this year for Thanksgiving (November 23 and 24) and on May 4, 2002, a Red Wine & Chocolate special. 82420 US Highway 93 (or PO Box 100), Dayton MT 59914, phone 406/849-5524, Web site www.missionmountainwinery.com.