What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Madrid

If 2004 was the year of Dalí, 2005 is undisputedly the year of Cervantes. In 1605 Spain's most famous writer created one of the great legendary figures of world literature: the woe-begotten knight Don Quijote de La Mancha. For this much heralded fourth centenary a variety of related events has been planned to take place in both the Spanish capital and in Cervantes' nearby birthplace, the historic university town of Alcalá de Henares. Some 400 activities--including forums, plays and exhibitions--are scheduled to take place in the community of Madrid area alone, with even more in the adjoining province of Castilla-La Mancha where the high plateaulands between Toledo, Albacete and Ciudad Real will be the scenario for a series of routes following Don Quijote's three odysseys, covering such historic spots as the windmill dotted town of Campo de Criptana and the home of the knight's beloved Dulcinea, El Toboso. (For full details of activities both in Madrid and Castile check the website www.donquijotedelamancha2005.com).

The city's metro (subway system) saw wide improvements in 2004, with new trains, better lighting and stronger enforcement of a much needed "no smoking anywhere on the metro system" rule (passengers who smoke on platforms and escalators are now subject to a fine of up to 500€).

A streamlined new tram service known as the tren ligero is currently being tested for full operation on Madrid's outskirts in 2007. Similar to the light rail already operating in Bilbao and Barcelona, it will transport commuters in the upmarket north-westerly suburbs of Boadilla del Monte, Pozuelo de Alarcón and burgeoning north easterly suburb of Sanchinarro at a total cost of 310 million euros. This modern tram will have little in common with the old creaky vehicles of the pre sixties with their ungainly overhead cables and bears more than a passing resemblance to Spain's fast Talgo, AVE and Alaris long distance trains-- though of course it's much smaller and slower and intended solely for short run urban use as an alternative to the bus or metro.

El Prado (http://museoprado.mcu.es/ihome.html) museum doubled its adult's entrance fee in January from 3€ to 6€, and students will now pay 3€€ instead of the previous 1.50€. Additionally, the Palacio Real (www.patrimonionacional.es) has increased its entry fee from 6€ to 9€, the Army Museum from 60 centimos to 1€ and the Lazaro Galdiano Museum (www.flg.es) from 3€ to 4€.

Centro de Ocio (leisure center) at Principe Pío was completed in October 2004. Adjoining the railway station, its facilities include a multi-screen cinema and a two-level shopping mall, whose Spanish and American locales range from popular fashion shop Zara to Starbucks and KFC.

Keep an eye open for the following free monthly English language magazines available in bookshops such as Booksellers, Pasajes and Petra's and a range of other outlets including language academies, Irish pubs and hotels:

• InSpain: A small periodical covering events in Madrid and Spain in general.
• In Madrid: Lively and deceptively detailed magazine aimed at the hedonistic young, with listings of all the "in" places to enjoy yourself, useful addresses, and the latest movie reviews.
• Español ¡Ya! Sparky color magazine providing a fun way for English speakers to learn basic Spanish.
• EnMadrid: This multilingual color pocket-size magazine describing everything that's currently on in town is published by the Patronato de Madrid and can be obtained from the Community of Madrid Tourist Office in Calle Duque Medinaceli between Plaza de las Cortes and the Paseo del Prado.
• The Broadsheet: This glossy color magazine has interesting in-depth articles on Madrid and other parts of Spain, covering people, travel, food and the arts.

New in Dining

Mendocino Café (Calle Limón 11; tel. 91 542 91 30; 5-10€; No credit cards; Open Tue-Thu 10am-midnight, Fri-Sat 10am-3am; Closed August; Metro: Noviciado): Named after the Californian county, this appropriately relaxed café lies just north of the Plaza España and close to the Conde Duque cultural centre where art exhibitions and concerts are held. You can also buy or borrow English or Spanish books from a small library, play board games, listen to occasional poetry readings and sip a cappuccino. During the week snacks, salads and soups are served; on Saturdays and Sundays you can enjoy their delicious brunch. Try the California Club Sandwich (bacon, lettuce, tomato, chicken, cheese, mayonnaise).

Where to Shop

Librería de Lavapiés (Calle Argumosa 39; tel/fax: 91 527 8992; Open Mon-Tue, Thur-Fri 10am to 2:30pm and 5-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am to 3:30pm and 6-9pm; Metro: Lavapiés): Located at the end of café-lined Calle Argumosa, a lively street in the old quarter of Lavapiés', this homely bookshop opened late in 2004. It has an international choice of old and new books, with a small but interesting English-language section. A friendly English-speaking staff are available for help and can order books not in stock.

Antigua Pasteleria del Pozo (Calle Pozo 8; tel. 91 522 38 94; Mon-Fri 9:30am-2pm, 5-8pm. Sat 9:30am-2pm; Closed Sun, mid Jul-end Aug; Metro: Sol): This sweet-toothed legacy from Spain's Arabic past, just a few minutes east of the Puerta del Sol, is run by genial Angel Pascual. Built in 1830, this much-loved locale still boasts its original décor and serving counter. Its mouth-watering pastries are cooked on the premises and the courteous service is comfortingly old-world.

Mariano Madrueño (Calle Postigo de San Martín 3; tel. 91 521 19 55; Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-2pm, 5:30-8:30pm; Metro: Callao): Founded just over a hundred years ago in a quiet pedestrian-lane close to the Monasterio de la Descalzas Reales, this atmospheric old wine shop features original wooden shelves, a central wrought iron column, an eclectic choice of wines from all over Spain and a selection of locally brewed spirits and liqueurs. Attendant wine guru Jorge will put you on to the right vintage.

Amparo Mercería (Calle Marqués Viudo de Pontejos 5; tel. 91 521 98 08; Open Mon-Fri 9:30am-2pm, 5-8pm, Sat 9:30am-2pm; Metro: Sol): Just behind the Puerta del Sol, this colorful mercería (haberdashers) was built in1861. It's located in a lane full of other haberdasheries and its shop window and high-ceilinged interior -- whose original wooden counter is backed by a high stairway -- are filled with a dazzling array of laces, sequins and other refined 19th century style needlework.

Taste of America (Serrano 149; tel. 91 562 02 78; Open: 10am-9pm; Closed Sundays; Metro: República Argentina): Set in a wide-avenued leafy suburb at the northern end of Serrano street, this small home from home store has sells products like maple syrup, pretzels, fudge brownies and Paul Newman sauces, and specializes in providing ingredients for US holiday specialities such as Halloween chocolates, Christmas candy and turkey stuffing for Thanksgiving. You can also get English goodies like cheddar cheese, Marmite, Coleman's mustard, Jackson's teas, and Lea and Perrins sauce.

After Dark

Casino Gran Madrid has changed their phone number to 900 900 810.