Where's Johnny Jet: Reporting from Porto

Olá from Portugal! With the weather so nice here in LA and enjoying all the comforts of home, it was very difficult getting back on a plane. I honestly did not want to pack and go to LAX. What was I thinking?! If you knew my itinerary, you'd be asking the same question. Over the next several weeks we'll travel to some spectacular destinations. Our first international stop is Porto. If you want to come for the journey, grab your passport and sense of adventure -- on this trip you'll need it.

LAX to Newark

Once I made it through airport security and boarded the plane, my brain hit travel mode again. It was like someone flipped a switch. Sitting in seat 21C on a Continental 737 bound for Newark, I realized the new security rules have changed air travel once more. For one thing, they make boarding much quicker because people are carrying on less baggage. That in turn opens up plenty of overhead bin space. On the flip side, checked baggage seems to take much longer to appear. But the biggest negative of all is that I don't think passengers drink as much water as they used to. That's certainly the case with me. Now that "no liquid over 3 ounces" is allowed to pass through security, how is a person supposed to properly hydrate themself when sitting in economy class? The flight attendants are definitely not eager to offer more water. I can't blame them -- they're overworked and underpaid -- but something has to be done before there's a rise in health issues aboard planes. I think airlines should stock up on bottled water, and sell it at a reasonable price ($1) at the gate and on board. On my 4-hour, 32-minute flight to Newark there definitely wasn't enough water on the plane. The flight attendants might even have passed out tap water. Which brings up this question: What's worse: Becoming dehydrated, or drinking plane tap water? To be certain what I was drinking, I opted for apple juice. To my dismay I learned that Continental is one of the few airlines not to give a whole can of juice or soda. Instead, they just pour a small glass and keep the can. But what's weird is that Continental is also one of the few (if not only) major U.S. carriers to serve free meals in economy. What's up with that? If you can spend money to serve food, then provide passengers with plenty of drinks!

Amtrak to Newark

From New York I traveled 50 miles to visit my family for the weekend in Connecticut. Two days later I had to be back at Newark. Instead of making a friend or relative drive in nasty I-95 traffic, or taking an expensive car service ($150), I tried something new (well, at least to me and all my Connecticut friends). Did you know that Amtrak travels from major Connecticut train stations (New Haven, Bridgeport, Stamford…) to Newark Liberty International Airport? A one-way coach class ticket from Stamford costs $37. I decided to spend an extra $12 to sit in Business class, so I could have a bit more space -- and more importantly, an electrical outlet so I could get some work done on my Toshiba laptop (it's now down to a mere 30 minutes of battery time). The 1 hour, 46-minute ride turned out to be awesome! I worked the entire time. Amtrak does not offer assigned seating, wireless Internet, free newspapers or even drinks. But what they do have are friendly conductors, plenty of overhead storage space, punctuality -- and I could bring as much bottled water as I wanted (believe me, I did). Getting my ticket was easy too. I purchased it quickly online, and if I had had my confirmation number handy I would not even have had to go to the ticket counter to print out my boarding card. I could have used one of the self-service kiosks, similar to airports. The train made brief stops in Penn Station and Newark before Newark International. From there it was a 50-yard walk, and because I had an Amtrak ticket the transfer to AirTrain was free (normally $5). The ride to the terminals takes 5-10 minutes, depending on which stop you get off.

TAP Portugal

I arrived at the TAP Portugal check-in counter two hours before the flight, and there was no line. The agent was friendly, yet surprised when she saw a note in the computer stating that I had an upgradeable ticket and that it went through. I guess not that many passengers get those notes. Yeah baby! It pays to have friends at the airline -- thank you M.C. for making my day. On top of that, a business class seat gives a free pass to their lounge. TAP is in the Star Alliance Group (United, USAir, Thai…), so they use their partner SAS' lounge. I was in this same lounge a few months ago, when I flew to Copenhagen on SAS (here's the link), and it was nicer the first time. SAS offered much better food and beverages choices (including sleek bottles of VOSS water). It turns out that each airline is in charge of catering for its passengers. Because flights are staggered, passengers seldom mix with each other at this lounge. For example, SAS flights depart in the early evening, while TAP flights leave a few hours later. Our flight was late by 45 minutes, so Singapore Airline passengers were starting to arrive in the lounge. Their caterers brought in some tasty Singapore noodles and other treats. It didn't make much difference to me though, because it I wasn't there to eat. I just wanted to relax and enjoy one of their three computers with free Internet. (Unfortunately, there is a charge for wireless).

Newark to Porto, Portugal

TAP Portugal, in business for 60 years, flies to 46 destinations in 27 countries around the world. They have 47 planes, and use a widebody Airbus A310 on their new Newark to Porto route which began in June. There are two classes of service: Economy and Top Executive (business class). The seats in Top Executive fully recline on a slope and have plenty of legroom. I'm not sure how new they were, though, because the volume on the armrest was a dial like in the old days. I was surprised the flight attendants didn't offer individual DVD players to me or the other Top Executive Class passengers (as they claim they do on their website). However, I did not want to watch a movie. I worked on my laptop using the electrical outlet in my seat.

No Pics on TAP

I got off to a bad start with the flight attendant, because when I first sat down I took a picture. He came over and said, "no pictures allowed on the plane." I thought he was joking, but he wasn't. Have you ever heard of such a stupid thing? I reverted to sneaking pictures (not using a flash) so I could share my experiences with you.

Food on TAP Portugal

After we took off the flight attendants warmed up (or should I say cooled down) and showed their friendly Portuguese hospitality. When they brought over the after-takeoff drink and cold stale nuts in a small plastic shot glass, they handed me two menus in both English and Portuguese. One was an extensive and quite impressive wine list, featuring 11 bottles of Portuguese wine. The other was the dinner menu that read: Appetizer: Tomato and Basil Soup or Salmon with Cucumber Salad. Main Course: Seared Beef Filet with Herb Butter Mashed Sweet Potato or Red Snapper with Lemon Butter Stir Fried Vegetables and Rice or Barbeque Chicken with Cornbread Pilaf or Cheese and Broccoli Tortellini. Dessert: A Selection of Portuguese Cheeses with a choice of Marmalade, Apricot or Wild Berry Jam. Passion Fruit Mousse Cake or Fresh Fruit. It all sounded good, but unfortunately the menu looked better than it tasted. The only dish worth mentioning was the hot soup poured fresh from a thermos. It was outstanding -- probably the best soup I ever had on a plane. Breakfast, served 45 minutes before landing, consisted of a single slice of cheese on a small roll, and a mini- Toblerone bar. I was taken aback when all the meals arrived with the Saran Wrap still in place, forcing passengers to remove it (flight attendants usually handle this task). Overall, the flight was very smooth and comfortable. I slept a couple of hours, and the flight time was only 5 hours, 45 minutes. Who knew that mainland Europe was so close to NY? Heck -- it takes that long to get to L.A.!

Portugal

Portugal's official name is the Portuguese Republic. The country is located on the Iberian Peninsula in southwestern Europe (here's a map). Spain is located north and east; the Atlantic Ocean is to the west. The reason my flight was so short is because Portugal is the westernmost country on mainland Europe. The official language is Portuguese. Don't make the same mistake many Americans do, which is speaking Spanish to the locals -- it won't make them happy. English is a much better choice, because most Portuguese in the touristy areas (especially the younger generation) speak both languages. Native Portuguese are primarily a mix of pre-Roman Iberian and Celtic tribes, with some Romans and Germanic tribes. Most Portuguese are Roman Catholic. Portugal is full of history. There is no way I can get into it in this newsletter; here's a link if you are interested. Portugal is a member of the European Union, so the euro is currency (1€ = $1.26). The population is 10,366,000; the area is roughly the size of Indiana, and the capital is Lisbon.

From the Airport to Downtown

The Porto airport is officially called "Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport" (named after a Portuguese politician killed in an airplane crash), but it is better known as "Aeroporto do Porto." The three-letter airport code is OPO. The airport was renovated this year, and is much larger then I imagined. The place is huge, but it has a real welcoming feel. It begins when passengers disembark into glass jetways (I love those) that lead to a terminal with high ceilings, lots of open space and modern design. It's a long walk to customs (about 7 minutes), but pleasurable. What also helped was no line at passport control, and friendly agents -- they just smiled, asked no questions and stamped my passport. A taxi to downtown Porto cost 17€ ($21) for the 6-mile ride. It should take 20 minutes, but I arrived at rush hour and traffic was horrible. It took 45 minutes to reach my hotel. A much better choice would have been the metro (30 minutes for a mere 2.25€ [$2.80]).

Porto, Portugal

The official name of Portugal's second largest city (after Lisbon) is Porto, which translates to "port." OPorto is the English name that the British gave it because when they used to arrive at the entrance of the Douro river they were amazed by its beauty and they said "Oh Porto". Porto, located 172 miles north of Lisbon (about a 3-hour drive), is famous for its port wine (more on this later). The population is 263,000 in the city, around 2,000,000 in the metropolitan area. There are not a lot of young people living in the city, because there aren't a lot of places for rent. But that's changing, with the passage of new rental laws that force owners to fix up their decrepit historic buildings. That will make the city look more appealing, and entice younger generations to move in. In 10 years the city should be completely different place. Don't get me wrong: Porto is beautiful today and full of history (thats why it's a World Heritage site). It's definitely worth a visit, but it has a chance to be very special in the near future -- Perhaps even one of Europe's treasures. To read about the history of Porto, click this link.

Hotel Infante Sagres

I checked into the five-star Hotel Infante Sagres. It's centrally located in the city center, within walking distance of Santa Catarina (Porto's Rodeo Drive). The hotel is charming. The lobby is opulent, filled with antiques. The staff is friendly, the rooms are large (with satellite TV), and the bathrooms are enormous (though the rooms on the fifth floor might not have good water pressure). The view from my bathroom made me sit longer, and the breakfast buffet was excellent. Wireless Internet is available in the lobby for 5€ ($6.27) an hour, or 20€ ($25) a day. Rates, beginning at 98€ ($123) for a single, can be found on the Internet (use Johnny Jet's search engines to search for the lowest price). Hotel Infante Sagres, Praça D. Filipa de Lencastre, 62, Porto; tel. 351-22-3398500.

Museu de Serralves

The first place I went to was the Museu de Serralves. This modern art gallery, set in a beautiful park with lush gardens, is a perfect place to be out in the sun and ward off jet lag. (Portugal is only a five-hour time change from the East Coast, making it easier than other places to adjust.) The exhibitions are just okay, but the gardens and extensive lunch buffet (16€ =$20) make it a must stop. Serralves Museum, Rua D. João de Castro, 210, Porto; tel. 351-22-6156500.

Casa da Música

One of Porto's new icons is the Casa da Música, the city's major concert hall. There are two auditoriums in this unique and highly acclaimed modern building, which has been compared to the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, and the Berlin Philharmonic auditorium. It was designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. The building opened in April 2005. Lou Reed perfomed, and it was such a big deal that even the prime minsiter attended. For a list of performances or an hour tour, log on to their website. Casa da Música, Avenida da Boavista, 604-610, Porto; tel. 351-22-0120200.

Port Wine Cellars

Porto is the capital of the port wine industry. That's why Porto's most famous attraction is visiting the wine lodges (or caves) where the port wine is stored, then shipped. The lodges are actually located not in Porto but just across the Douro River (Porto has six bridges) in Vila Nova da Gaia. The Douro River begins in north-central Spain and travels through Portugal's Douro Valley (we will visit this UNESCO world heritage site next week). The view of Porto's old town from Vila Nova da Gaia is spectacular. There are a number of wine lodges along the river; the one Americans know best is Sandeman. I toured Calem, which is popular with both Portuguese and Brazilians. Wine was first shipped to Brazil back in the late 1800s. The Calem lodge is a beautiful facility; it's earned a Best of Wine Tourism award for incredible architecture. The tour takes roughly 30 minutes; it costs just 2€ ($2.50), and no appointment is necessary. The higlight for most visitors is not the lesson in how port wine is made (the English added brandy, giving it a sweet taste) or seeing barrel after barrel aging, but rather tasting free samples of the sweet wine at the end. Of course, the tasting room is also in the store, so visitors can stock up. Unfortunately, because of new carry-on security rules I bought only mini-bottles that would fit into my checked luggage. Vinho Porto Calém, Avenida Diogo Leite, 26, Vila Nova de Gaia; e-mail: marketing@calem.pt; tel. 351-22-3746660.

Restaurante D. Tonho

A great spot to go to after your wine tasting is Restaurante D. Tonho. It's a 5-minute walk from Calem (across the bridge to Porto), and on a warm night diners sit outside and enjoy the wonderful vistas. The restaurant serves authentic Portuguese food; their specialty is codfish (I hear it's very salty). Just be careful when dining here or at any restaurant in Portugal. They use the same custom as in the Czech Republic. They charge for the bread and the appetizers they bring to the table as soon as you sit down (unless you say "no thank you"). Restaurante D. Tonho, Cais da Ribeira, 13-15, Porto; tel. 351-22-2004307.

Video

Because I did not get to the Douro Valley, I'll save the Portugal video for next week. Instead I made a a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video from last week's trip to California. To view past videos, here's a link of all JohnnyJet Videos ever made. Remember: With high-speed the video takes about 1 minute to load; with dial-up, it could be 3 weeks.

Next Week

Next week we visit the Douro Valley, and head to another country. Stay tuned!

Happy Travels,

Johnny Jet

Please tell us what you think of this week's newsletter!

Web Resources

• Airbus A310
• AirTrain
• Alto Minho
• Amtrak
• Casa da Música
• Europe For Visitors
• Hotel Infante Sagres
• Images of Portugal
• Newark Airport
• Port Wine Comes of Age
• Porto Airport
• Porto Info
• Portugal Map
• Porto Metro
• Porto Tourism
• Portugal History
• Restaurante D. Tonho
• Sandeman
• Serralves Museum
• Star Alliance
• TAP Portugal
• Vinho Porto Calém
• Visit Portugal

John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 850 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com.

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