John F. Kennedy Space Center

Whether or not you're a space buff, you'll appreciate the sheer grandeur of the facilities and technological achievements displayed at NASA's primary space launch facility. Astronauts departed Earth at this site in 1969 en route to the most famous "small step" in history -- the first moon walk -- and today's space shuttles still regularly lift off from here on their latest missions.

Because all roads other than Florida 405 and Florida 3 are closed to the public in the Space Center, you must begin your visit at Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. A bit like an amusement theme park, this privately operated complex has received a renovation and expansion, so check beforehand to see if tours and exhibits have changed since press time. Call ahead to see what's happening on the day you intend to be here and arrive early. You'll need at least 2 hours to see the Space Center's highlights on the bus tour, up to 5 hours if you linger at the stops along the way, and a full day to see and do everything here. Buy a copy of the Official Tour Book; it's easier to use than the rental cassette tapes, and you can take it home as a colorful souvenir (though some readers think you probably don't need the extra information, as the bus tours are narrated and the exhibits have good descriptions).

The Visitor Complex has real NASA rockets and the actual Mercury Mission Control Room from the 1960s. Exhibits portray space exploration in its early days and where it's going in the new millennium. There are hands-on activities for kids, a daily "Encounter" with a real astronaut, dining venues, and a shop selling space memorabilia. IMAX movies shown on five-and-a-half-story-high screens are both informative and entertaining.

Plan to spend about 2 hours here, or you could easily make a day of it.

New at the Visitor Complex is the Shuttle Launch Experience, an incredible journey of vertically launching into space and orbiting Earth aboard the space shuttle. Guest "crew members" strap in for this all-too-real simulation, which immerses visitors in the sights, sounds, and feelings of a space shuttle launch, designed under the guidance of NASA and veteran space shuttle astronauts. The Shuttle Launch Experience is included with regular admission to the Visitor Complex.

While you could spend an entire day at the Visitor Complex, you must take a KSC Tour to see the actual Space Center where rockets and shuttles are prepared and launched. Take the bus tour early in your visit, and be sure to hit the restrooms before boarding -- there are only two on the tour. Buses depart every 15 minutes or so, and you can reboard as you wish. They stop at the LC-39 Observation Gantry, with a dramatic 360-degree view over launchpads where shuttles blast off; the International Space Station Center, where scientists and engineers prepare additions to the space station now in orbit; and the Apollo/Saturn V Center, which includes artifacts, photos, films, interactive exhibits, and the 363-foot-tall Saturn V, the most powerful rocket ever launched by the United States. Unfortunately, the bus tour was the low point of my recent visit. Though the commentary on the bus was interesting, the stops were relatively dull, and waiting to board and reboard buses was more than frustrating (though touching a moon rock at the Apollo/Saturn V Center was pretty cool). If you're short on time, I suggest sticking around the Visitor Complex.

Don't miss the Astronaut Memorial. Dedicated in 1991, the memorial honors the U.S. astronauts who gave their lives for space exploration. The 43-foot-high by 50-foot-wide "Space Mirror" brilliantly illuminates the names cut through the monument's black granite surface.

Launch days are great days to visit the Visitor Complex and watch history in the making. You may purchase a combined ticket that entitles you to admission to the Visitor Complex plus transportation to the NASA Causeway to see the liftoff. Tickets to view launches from this viewing site are $58 per adult and $38 per child, and must be prepurchased, as they are very popular and sell out quickly. Launches can also be viewed from the main Visitor Complex with the regular admission price of $38 per adult and $28 per child.

For an out-of-this-world experience, do Lunch with an Astronaut, a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity available every day ($23 adults, $16 kids 3-11, in addition to Visitor Complex admission). Astronauts who have participated in the past include some of the greatest, such as, Jim Lovell, Walt Cunningham, Story Musgrave, and Jon McBride. Seating is limited; call tel. 321/449-4400 to make a reservation.

New at Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex is the repackaged Astronaut Training Experience, a thrilling combination of hands-on training and preparation for the rigors of spaceflight. You'll hear first-hand from veteran NASA astronauts as you progress through an authentic half-day of mission simulation and exploration and even get to check out a flight simulator. It's pricey, though, at $125 per person.

Note: Kennedy Space Center acquired many of the exhibits from the U.S. Astronaut Hall of Fame and added them as a separate attraction at the KSC Visitor Complex ($17 adults, $13 child 3-11; or $38 adults and $28 child for a 2-day admission ticket to the Visitor Complex and the Hall of Fame). The attraction includes exhibits and tributes to the heroes of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo space programs. There's also a collection of spacecraft, including a Mercury 7 capsule, a Gemini training capsule, and an Apollo 14 command module. In "Simulator Station," guests can experience four times the force of gravity, ride a rover across Mars, and land a space shuttle.

Out to Launch -- If you'd like to see a shuttle launch at the Kennedy Space Center, first call tel. 321/867-5000 or check NASA's official website (www.ksc.nasa.gov) for a schedule of upcoming takeoffs. You can buy launch tickets at the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex (tel. 321/449-4444) or online at www.ksctickets.com. A word of caution: Shuttle launches are frequently delayed due to weather, equipment malfunctions, or other factors, so you might have to make multiple visits to see one. It is also possible the launch window may be delayed beyond your going-home date.

If you can't get into the space center, other good viewing spots are on the causeways leading to the islands and on U.S. 1 as it skirts the waterfront in Titusville. The Clarion Inn Riverside-Kennedy Space Center, on Washington Avenue (U.S. 1) in Titusville (tel. 800/465-4329 or 321/269-2121; www.choicehotels.com), has a clear view of the launchpads across the Indian River. Area motels raise their rates and often book up around the time a launch is scheduled.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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