Suggested Itineraries

I've lived in New York for more than half my life and I still haven't seen it all. That's not because I don't want to, it's just there is so much to see. So it's understandable if you feel a bit overwhelmed by all the options. Seeing the best of New York requires endurance, patience, perseverance, good walking shoes, a $7 daily MetroCard Fun Pass, and a map of the subway system. For some attractions -- like the Empire State Building or a Broadway play -- you should score tickets before you come to New York to avoid long lines or a disappointing shutout. Besides your own two feet, the subway will be your best bet to cover the most ground. I also recommend a few bus routes that will not only get you to some of New York's best attractions, but will also act as your own tour bus on which you'll see sights on the way.

The Essential New York Eating Itinerary

New York has countless restaurants of quality and variety. If you want a sampling of true New York cuisine, follow the "required eating" itinerary below. Whether you jam the stops below into 1, 2 or 3 days, a gargantuan appetite is required.

1. Bagels with Lox

Start your New York food tour at Barney Greengrass, the Sturgeon King (541 Amsterdam Avenue; tel. 212/724-4707) where they have been making that world famous combination, bagels and lox, since 1908. If there is anything more satisfying than a fresh, out-of-the-oven bagel with a schmear of cream cheese and a razor-thin slice of lox, I don't know what it is. This combination might be one of the most popular breakfast items in New York.

2. Cuban/Chinese

There used to be dozens of Cuban/Chinese restaurants in Manhattan, most on the Upper West Side. The boom began in the late 1950's after the Cuban revolution and the beginning of the Castro regime. Chinese-Cubans emigrated to New York and opened up restaurants serving both Cantonese-style Chinese food and traditional Cuban food. A few are left and my favorite is Flor de Mayo (2651 Broadway; tel. 212/663-5520. Here I can order a big bowl of wonton soup followed by a huge plate of yellow rice and black beans.

3. Chicken and Waffles

You're out late, maybe listening to jazz at one of Harlem's many clubs, it's getting near dawn, and you can't decide whether you want dinner or breakfast. You can't resist the fried chicken, but waffles sound good, too. So you try a little of both -- maple syrup melding with the hot sauce; sweet with savory. The birthplace of this dish is said to be Wells Chicken and Waffles in Harlem in 1938. Wells is long gone, but chicken and waffles live on. For the best rendition, go to Amy Ruth's (113 W. 116th St.; tel. 212/280-8779) for chicken and waffles, as well as grits and fish cakes -- another outstanding combo.

4. The New York Oyster

There was a time when New York was more the Big Oyster than the Big Apple. The local harbor beds overflowed with oysters and the mollusk helped feed the city. You can recall those glory days at the Grand Central Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station (tel. 212/490-6650) where, since 1913, oysters have been the specialty. Order them on the half shell from Long Island, Washington State, Maine, Virginia, or Canada, with the Metro North commuter trains rumbling in the background. It's a true New York eating experience if there ever was one.

5. A Slice of Pizza

Toss on some dried red pepper or granulated garlic, and eat it standing up to capture the grease before it stains your clothes. That's the way we've been eating pizza in New York for years. The classic New York slice, however, has been on the decline ever since an influx of chain pizzerias have corrupted the pizza landscape. For the best "slice" head to Joe's Pizza (7 Carmine St.; tel. 212/255-3946) in the Village, open until the wee hours, satisfying your late night cravings.

6. The Hot Dog

This might be an obvious choice, but I don't think so. You can find carts selling cheap hot dogs throughout the city. You might be tempted to try one just to say you did. And I think you should; it definitely is a New York experience. But even better, take the train out to Coney Island and sample a Nathan's Famous dog right on the boardwalk (1310 Surf Ave. tel. 718/946-2202). Maybe it's the salty sea air. Maybe it's the crisp skin of the hot dog, or the way it's perfectly fried. Whatever it is, you won't forget your Nathan's hot dog on Coney Island.

7. The New York Strip

Some of New York's oldest restaurants are steakhouses, and for good reason. They keep it simple. Some might have sawdust on the floors, others clay pipes on the ceiling, or photos of celebrities on the walls, but that is about as fancy as they get. What they do is serve quality, properly-aged meat cooked to perfection and presented in a no-nonsense, no frills manner. And no one does that better than Peter Luger in Williamsburg, Brooklyn (178 Broadway; tel. 718/387-7400).

8. Ice Cream with a View

If you've been able to sample the above essential New York eating experiences over 1, 2 or 3 days, finish your tour off at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory (1 Water Street; tel. 718/246-3963) where the homemade ice cream is absolutely delicious and the view at river's edge of Manhattan, just below the Brooklyn Bridge, is equally stunning.