Attractions

If this is your first trip to New York, face the facts: It will be impossible to take in the entire city -- this time. Because New York is almost unfathomably big and constantly changing, you could live your whole life here and still make fascinating daily discoveries -- we New Yorkers do. This section is designed to give you an overview of what's available in this multifaceted place so you can narrow your choices to an itinerary that's digestible for the amount of time you'll be here -- be it a day, a week, or something in between.

So don't try to tame New York -- you can't. Decide on a few must-see attractions, and then let the city take you on its own ride. See "Suggested Itineraries" for my suggestions on what to see and how to cram it all in 1, 2, or 3 days. But inevitably, as you make your way around the city, you'll be blown off course by unplanned diversions that are just as much fun as what you meant to see.

After all, the true New York is in the details. As you dash from sight to sight, take time to admire a cornice on a prewar building, linger over a cup of coffee at a sidewalk cafe, or just idle away a few minutes on a bench watching New Yorkers parade through their daily lives.

Don't forget Central Park, the great green swath that is, just by virtue of its existence, New York City's greatest marvel.

Subway Access Alert -- On almost every weekend, and throughout the year, changes in normal subway service tend to occur. I strongly recommend you check with the Metropolitan Transit Authority at tel. 718/330-1234 or www.mta.nyc.ny.us before you plan your travel routes; your hotel concierge or any token-booth clerk should also be able to assist you.

A Money & Time-Saving Tip -- CityPass may be New York's best sightseeing deal. Pay one price ($53, or $44 for kids 12-17) for admission to six major attractions: The American Museum of Natural History (admission only; does not include Space Show), the Guggenheim Museum, the Empire State Building, the Museum of Modern Art, and a 2-hour Circle Line harbor cruise. Individual tickets would cost more than twice as much.

More important, CityPass is not a coupon book. It contains actual tickets, so you can bypass lengthy lines. This can save you hours, since sights such as the Empire State Building often have ticket lines of an hour or more.

CityPass is good for 9 days from the first time you use it. It's sold at all participating attractions and online at http://citypass.com. To avoid online service and shipping fees, you may buy the pass at your first attraction (start at an attraction that's likely to have the shortest admission line, such as the Guggenheim, or arrive before opening to avoid a wait at such spots as the Empire State Building). However, if you begin your sightseeing on a weekend or during holidays, when lines are longest, online purchase may be worthwhile.

For more information, call CityPass at tel. 208/787-4300 (note, however, that CityPass is not sold over the phone).

Roosevelt Island Tram -- Want to take in a little-known but spectacular view of the New York skyline? Take them for a ride on the Roosevelt Island Tram (tel. 212/832-4543, ext. 1; www.rioc.com.) This is the tram you have probably seen in countless movies, most recently Spider-Man. The tram originates at 59th Street and Second Avenue, costs $2 each way ($2 round-trip for seniors), and takes 4 minutes to traverse the East River to Roosevelt Island, where there are a series of apartment complexes and parks. During those 4 minutes you will be treated to a gorgeous view down the East River and the East Side skyline, with views of the United Nations and four bridges: the Queensboro, Williamsburg, Manhattan, and Brooklyn. On a clear day you might even spot Lady Liberty. And don't worry, despite what you've seen in the movies, the tram is safe, and your friendly neighborhood Spider-Man has everything under control. The tram operates daily from 6am until 2:30am and until 3:30am on weekends.

World Trade Center Site (Ground Zero)

Do you call a place where over 3,000 people lost their lives an "attraction"? Or do you now call it a shrine? This is the quandary of the World Trade Center site. What had been a big hole for 5 years is a little more than that; construction began in early 2006 on the proposed "Freedom Tower" to be built at the site. But even though work is ongoing, there is still political bickering on what will rise from that hole. The new design retains essential elements of the original -- soaring 1,776 feet into the sky, its illuminated mast evoking the Statue of Liberty's torch. From the square base, the Tower will taper into eight tall isosceles triangles, forming an octagon at its center. An observation deck will be located 1,362 feet above ground. Of course, all this could change by the time this book comes out.

For now, you can see the site through a viewing wall on the Church Street side of the site; on that "Wall of Heroes" are the names of those who lost their lives that day along with the history of the site, including photos of the construction of the World Trade Center in the late 1960s and how, after it opened in 1972, it changed the New York skyline and downtown. A walk along the Wall of Heroes remains a painfully moving experience.

The site is bounded by Church, Barclay, Liberty, and West streets. Call tel. 212/484-1222 or go to www.nycvisit.com or www.southstseaport.org for viewing information; go to www.downtownny.com for lower-Manhattan area information and rebuilding updates. The Tribute Center gives guided tours of the site. Call tel. 212/422-3520 or visit www.tributewtc.org for more information. Tours are given Mon-Fri at 11am, 1pm and 3pm; Sat and Sun at noon, 1, 2, and 3pm. The fee is $10 for adults; under 12 free.