Local Cuisine

The Hole Truth: N.Y.'s Best Bagels

Not many things are more New York than a bagel, and New Yorkers are loyal to their favorite bagel purveyors. In fact, discussions about who makes the best bagel can lead to heated arguments. Following are the top contenders:

Absolute Bagels, 2708 Broadway, between 107th and 108th streets (tel. 212/932-2052). A new player on the scene, their egg bagels, hot out of the oven, melt in your mouth, and their whitefish salad is perfectly smoky, not overpowering.

Ess-A-Bagel, 359 First Ave., at 21st Street (tel. 212/260-2252; www.ess-a-bagel.com). When it comes to size, Ess-a-Bagel's are the best of the biggest; plump, chewy, and oh so satisfying. Also at 831 Third Ave., between 50th and 51st streets (tel. 212/980-1010).

H&H Bagels, 2239 Broadway, at 80th Street (tel. 212/595-8003; www.handhbagel.com). Long reputed as the best bagel in New York, which may have resulted in the arrogant price hike to $1 a bagel. Some complain they are a bit too sweet, but I disagree. The bagels here are always fresh and warm, the bagel aficionado's prerequisite. Also at 639 W. 46th St., at Twelfth Avenue (tel. 212/595-8000). Takeout only.

Kossar's Bialys, 367 Grand St, at Essex St. (tel. 877-4-BIALYS; www.kossarsbialys.com). We know about their bialys, but don't forget about their bagels. Also hand rolled, the result is a slightly crunchy exterior with a tender, moist middle. Sure you came for the bialys, but you will leave with both.

Murray's Bagels, 500 Sixth Ave., between 12th and 13th streets (tel. 212/462-2830), and 242 Eighth Ave., at 23rd Street (tel. 646/638-1335; www.mbchelsea.com). There's nothing like a soft, warm bagel to begin your day, and Murray's does them beautifully. Their smoked fish goes perfectly on their bagels.

Pizza, New York-Style

Once the domain of countless first-rate pizzerias, Manhattan's pizza offerings have noticeably dropped in quality. The proliferation of Domino's Pizza, Pizza Hut, and other chains into the market have lowered pizza standards. Still, there is plenty of good pizza to be found. Don't be tempted by sad imitations; when it comes to pizza, search out the real deal. Here are some of the best:

DiFara Pizza, 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn, at E. 15th Street (tel. 718/258-1367; Subway: Q to Avenue J/16th St.). DiFara's is ballyhooed in all the local publications that claim it's the best pizza in the city. And though the exterior is nondescript -- looking like your basic neighborhood pizzeria -- and the interior is cramped, and to be kind, somewhat unkempt with bits of congealed cheese, olive oil, sauce, and crust from possibly a generation of diners still on the tables, DiFara's lives up to its reputation, thanks to the stubborn zeal of owner Dominic DeMarco, who, for over 40 years, makes every pizza himself. Stooped but determined, DeMarco, in his own deliberate way and using top ingredients, crafts each pizza finishing with hand-grated Parmesan cheese, a few dollops of extra-virgin olive oil, and then, using scissors, hand cutting fresh basil onto the pie. The result is a work of art, but one that might test your patience. Expect to wait an hour for a pie, maybe a bit less for a slice. But after one taste, you will know it was worth it.

Grimaldi's Pizzeria, 19 Old Fulton St., between Front and Water streets (tel. 718/858-4300; www.grimaldis.com; Subway: 2, 3 to Clark St.; A, C to Clark St.; F to York St.). If you need incentive to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, Grimaldi's, in Brooklyn Heights, easily provides it. In fact, the pizza is so good, made in a coal oven with a rich flavorful sauce and homemade mozzarella, you might run across the bridge to get to it. Be warned: It can get very crowded at dinnertime.

John's Pizzeria, 278 Bleecker St., near Seventh Avenue South (tel. 212/243-1680). Since it has expanded from this original location -- there are now three in the city -- the once-gleaming luster of John's has faded slightly, but the pizza is still a cut above the rest. Thin-crusted and out of a coal oven with the proper ratio of tomato sauce to cheese, John's pizza has a loyal following. Though the quality at all of the locations is good, the original Bleecker Street location is the most old-world romantic and my favorite. Also at 260 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/391-7560), and 408 E. 64th St., between York and First avenues (tel. 212/935-2895).

Lombardi's, 32 Spring St., between Mulberry and Mott streets (tel. 212/941-7994; www.firstpizza.com; Subway: 6 to Spring St.). Claiming to be New York's first "licensed" pizzeria, Lombardi's opened in 1905 and still uses a generations-old Neapolitan family pizza recipe. The coal oven kicks out perfectly cooked pies, some topped with ingredients such as pancetta, homemade sausage, and even fresh-shucked clams. It's hard to go wrong here no matter what tops the pizza. A garden in the back makes it even more inviting during warm weather.

Patsy's Pizzeria, 2287 First Ave., between 117th and 118th streets (tel. 212/534-9783; www.patsyspizzeriany.com; Subway: 6 to 116th St.). My favorite, and also the favorite of Frank Sinatra, who liked it so much he had pies packed and flown out to Las Vegas. The coal oven here has been burning since 1932, and though the neighborhood in east Harlem where it is located has had its ups and downs, the quality of pizza at Patsy's has never wavered. Try the marinara pizza, a pie with fresh marinara sauce but no cheese that's so good you won't miss the mozzarella. Unlike the other pizzerias mentioned here, you can order by the slice at Patsy's. Don't be fooled by imitators using Patsy's name; this is the original and the best.

Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano, 1524 Neptune Ave., between West 15th and West 16th streets, Coney Island, Brooklyn (tel. 718/372-8606; Subway: D to Stillwell Ave./Coney Island). This unassuming little pizzeria has been at the same spot since 1924, and it makes pizzas almost exactly as it did 80 years ago -- thin crust, fresh sauce, and mozzarella, and that's about it. Don't even think about asking for an exotic topping on these pies (and why would you?). Enjoy it in all its simple unadorned glory. Totonno's second branch, on the Upper East Side, 1544 Second Ave., between 80th and 81st streets (tel. 212/327-2800), opened about 10 years ago -- go ahead and order the exotic toppings there, but for the real deal, go to Coney Island.

Where to Find Your (Burger) Bliss in NYC

New York is hamburger happy. And that happiness has nothing to do with Mickey D's or BK. It's about real, solid, locally made burgers and there are plenty of places to find them without resorting to supersizing yourself. Here are some:

Brgr, 287 Seventh Ave., at 26th Street (tel. 212/488-7500; www.brgr.us). The hook here is top quality meats and homemade toppings. The beef is natural angus from Montana Legend beef, but just as good are the turkey burgers made from Plainville Farms all-natural turkeys. Some of the toppings include Roquefort cheese, sweet onion marmalade, and homemade burger sauce. Save room for a Brgr shake made with Ronnybrook farms milk and ice cream.

Burger Joint, located discreetly behind a curtain in the lobby of Le Parker Meridien Hotel, 118 W. 57th St. (tel. 212/708-7414), is like the burger joint you might remember in college -- only the burgers are better. And for a place off the lobby of a fancy hotel, it's downright cheap.

New York Burger Co., 303 Park Ave. South, between 23rd and 24th streets (tel. 212/254-2727), and 678 Sixth Ave., between 21st and 22nd streets (tel. 212/229-1404). Here you won't feel guilty as you devour the burgers at this "healthy" fast-food alternative. The beef is all-natural Coleman beef, devoid of hormones or antibiotics and served on a fresh-baked brioche. What do they taste like? The burgers have plenty of flavor and come in a number of varieties.

P.J. Clarke's, 915 Third Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 212/317-1616; www.pjclarkes.com). P.J. Clarke's has been a Midtown institution for over 50 years, and its hamburger, like the restaurant's old wood walls, broken telephone booth, and hidden dining nook for two, has been blessedly preserved. Nothing more than a slab of chopped meat cooked to order, on a bun; and for the curious price of $8.10, the hamburger is a simple masterpiece. There is a Clarke's in the Financial District downtown at 4 World Financial Center (tel. 212/285-1500) and a new location off Lincoln Center, 44 W. 63rd St. (tel. 212/957-9700).

Rare Bar & Grill, 303 Lexington Ave., between 37th and 38th streets (tel. 212/481-1999; www.rarebarandgrill.com). You might pay a little more for your burger at Rare Bar & Grill -- they range from $9 to $20 -- but you are paying for 8 ounces of Grade A American chuck beef that is ground daily at the restaurant. Rare has a number of interesting varieties; my favorite is the "M&M" burger, with caramelized shallots, cheddar cheese, and apple-smoked bacon flambéed in whiskey. Rare is so popular, they recently opened another branch downtown, at 228 Bleecker St., between Carmine and Downing streets (tel. 212/691-7273).

Shake Shack, in Madison Square Park (tel. 212/889-6600; www.shakeshack.com). Open from the beginning of spring through most of November (and for phone orders and pickup in winter), Danny Meyer, of Gramercy Tavern, The Modern, and Eleven Madison Park fame, is behind this "shack" in the middle of Madison Square Park, where adoring fans line up early and often for takeout burgers, hot dogs, and milkshakes. Try to come during off-hours, if possible, to avoid the lines; the burgers are good, but we're just talking hamburgers here -- not worth waiting interminably for.

Urban BBQ: The Best 'cue in New York City

New York is known for many things, but barbecue is not one of them. That is, finally changing. The hankering for slow-cooked, charred meat, so popular in the South and heartland, has made its way to the big city. And, really, what is more primal and satisfying than the sensation of tearing slow-smoked meat from bone, eating the meat with your fingers and then, of course, licking that sweet and savory sauce off your own natural utensils? New York is not Memphis or Kansas City, but every year new joints pop up, and we no longer embarrass ourselves when it comes to the fine art of smoking meats.

My current favorite is RUB helmed by a Kansas City pitmaster named Paul Kirk. The smoked turkey and chicken were as close to perfection as I've found. Close to the West Side Highway, Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, a Syracuse transplant BBQ joint, is like a roadhouse in atmosphere, and the pulled pork is as good as it gets north of 125th Street. In the heart of tourist trap mecca Times Square, lies a kitschy, themed barbecue joint, Virgil's Real BBQ, which, especially for a theme restaurant, serves remarkably good 'cue.

French-trained and a former chef at Daniel, Adam Perry Lang, curiously, or maybe not so curiously, gave up the haute French cuisine to open his own joint called Daisy May's BBQ, 623 11th Ave., at 46th Street (tel. 212/977-1500; www.daisymaysbbq.com), with stellar results. Daisy May carts can be found in various locations around the city, but if you can't find a cart, squeeze into his cafeteria-style restaurant for Memphis-style dry-rub ribs, and you'll think that you are a block from the Mississippi River, not the Hudson.

For Texas-style barbecue, visit Hill Country, for the amazing beef short ribs, and Johnny Utah's, where you can have your steak and watch silly white-collar workers get tossed from a mechanical bull.

Restaurateur Danny Meyer has made his name with such celebrated restaurants as the Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, and the Union Square Café. A St. Louis native, Meyer wanted to replicate the barbecue he remembered growing up, so he opened Blue Smoke, 116 E. 27th St., between Lexington and Park avenues (tel. 212/447-7733; www.jazzstandard.net), as part of the jazz club, the Jazz Standard. Blue Smoke offers the usual array of barbecue, made in Meyer's custom-built smoker, but with a few quirks such as a fried bologna sandwich.

Brooklyn is honing its 'cue skills with the recent addition of two joints, including the appropriately named The Smoke Joint, 87 S. Elliot Place (tel. 718/797-1011; www.thesmokejoint.com), in Fort Greene, where the "Baby Got Back" baby backs fall off the bone and are only outdone by the Joint's remarkable Black Angus hot dog. Fette Sau (Williamsburg, Brooklyn) means "fat pig" in German, but though there is plenty of good fat in the pig served at Fette Sau, there is nothing German about that down-home smoky taste.

My favorite soul restaurant is Charles' Southern-Style Kitchen, so when Charles of said kitchen, Charles Gabriel, opened a barbecue joint called Rack & Soul, 2818 Broadway, at 109th Street (tel. 212/222-4800; www.rackandsoul.com), in my neighborhood, I was ecstatic. Rack & Soul not only offers his trademark fried chicken, but also barbecued baby back ribs that are so good you might have to pass on his chicken; or go for a combo platter where you can get a taste of both.