Local Cuisine

Hello, Old Friends!

New York has many restaurants that are institutions, places that have been around forever and are known all over. When you think of classic New York restaurants that have survived for decades, you might think of the Carnegie Deli, the Grand Central Oyster Bar, or the Peter Luger Steakhouse. But there are countless lesser-known restaurants that have a storied past and are well-loved by their customers. The menus remain pretty much the same; not succumbing to the ever-changing food trends, the service is usually old-school; turnover is low, and your waiter will probably recognize you from your last visit, which might have been a year or two earlier. At these places, it's not about the quality of the food, which will likely not be four-star; it's more about being part of the family.

I first experienced Chinatown's Wo Hop, 17 Mott St., between Worth and Mosco streets (tel. 212/962-8617), established in 1938, when I was in college. You couldn't find a cheaper restaurant in New York. It was open 24 hours -- I have fond memories of dining late at night and then ascending the stairs from the subterranean restaurant to a sunny dawn; portions were huge and the food was dense. Time has stood still at Wo Hop (pictured at right), and though the prices have gone up, it's still one of the cheapest eateries in the city, still open 24 hours, and still dishing out huge portions of dense food. Here you'll find those Chinese-American classics you might remember from your youth: egg drop soup, chow mein, egg foo young, and subgum (bonus points to anyone who knows what "subgum" means) vegetables.

At around the same time, I was introduced to Vincent's Clam Bar, 119 Mott St., at Hester Street (tel. 212/226-8133; www.originalvincents.com), a few blocks up in Little Italy. At the time, there was still a remnant of what Little Italy used to be that is now gone. But Vincent's has been around since 1904, and though, like the rest of Little Italy, there is a touristy, theme-restaurant atmosphere to it, where else can you actually still order that old Italian-American favorite, scungilli? Like the shrinking Italian presence in Little Italy, scungilli (sliced conch) has practically disappeared from the menus of Italian restaurants. Here they pile it high on top of your linguine. Vincent's tomato sauce is unique and tastes exactly as I remember it from my first visit: rich and tomato-paste-thickened. It comes in three flavors: sweet, medium, and hot. The hot is fiery, and the best way to experience it is with a semistale biscuit and as an accompaniment to fried seafood.

I admit, I'm a relative newcomer to El Faro, 823 Greenwich St., at Horatio Street (tel. 212/929-8210; www.elfaronyc.com), one of the oldest Spanish restaurants in New York, which celebrated its 82nd birthday in 2009. But one visit and you will feel like you are a longtime friend of the Lurgis family, who have owned the okace since 1959. Maybe you'll get to sit in James Baldwin's favorite corner table -- the restaurant is mentioned in his biography -- the table off the bar, where a resident ghost is rumored to occasionally sit. The menu features dishes from Spain that are now familiar, such as paella a la Valenciana, shrimp al ajillo, and mariscada (mixed seafood) with green sauce. All this is complemented with El Faro's potent signature sangria, also known as "truth serum."

We all know how hard it is to make it on Broadway, and to make it as a pre-theater restaurant and survive for almost 50 years is a feat. But that's what Chez Napoleon, 365 W. 50th St., between 8th and 9th avenues (tel. 212/265-6980; www.cheznapoleon.com), has done. In the shadow of Worldwide Plaza, the Bruno family, led by matriarch "grandmere" Marguerite, has run Chez Napoleon since 1960, serving traditional Gallic cuisine. The presentation and preparation of the restaurant's coq au vin and the beauf bourguignon remain today exactly as it was before Marguerite was a "grandmere."

People ask me for recommendations for a "real deal" diner. My answer is always Eisenberg's Coffee Shop, 174 Fifth Ave., at 22nd Street (tel. 212/675-5096). This luncheonette has been dishing up eggs/bacon/burgers/sandwiches since 1929, at pretty much the same prices -- adjusted slightly for inflation, of course. The waiters and cooks have seemingly been working there since the Eisenhower era. More likely than not, you'll be greeted with a growled "Hiya, sweetheart," or a gravelly "What'll it be, love?" If a tuna sandwich were on a "Best of" list, Eisenberg's version would win. Feel a little run down? A bowl of matzo-ball soup will perk you up. Or sit at the counter and order an egg cream with real, from-the-bottle, seltzer.

The Hole Truth: N.Y.'s Best Bagels

Not many things are more "New York" than a bagel, and New Yorkers are loyal to their favorite bagel purveyors. In fact, discussions about who makes the best bagel can lead to heated arguments. Following are the top contenders:

Absolute Bagels, 2708 Broadway, between 107th and 108th streets (tel. 212/932-2052). A new player on the scene, their egg bagels, hot out of the oven, melt in your mouth, and their whitefish salad is perfectly smoky, not overpowering.

Ess-A-Bagel, 359 First Ave., at 21st Street (tel. 212/260-2252; www.ess-a-bagel.com). When it comes to size, Ess-a-Bagel's are the best of the biggest; plump, chewy, and oh so satisfying. Also at 831 Third Ave., between 50th and 51st streets (tel. 212/980-1010).

H&H Bagels, 2239 Broadway, at 80th Street (tel. 212/595-8003; www.handhbagel.com). These are long reputed to be the best bagels in New York, which may have resulted in the arrogant price hike to $1 a bagel. Some complain they are a bit too sweet, but I disagree. And, they are always fresh and warm, the bagel aficionado's prerequisite. Also at 639 W. 46th St., at Twelfth Avenue (tel. 212/595-8000). Takeout only.

Kossar's Bialys, 367 Grand St., at Essex St. (tel. 877-4-BIALYS; www.kossarsbialys.com). We know about their bialys, but don't forget about their bagels. Also hand rolled, the result is a slightly crunchy exterior with a tender, moist middle. Sure you came for the bialys, but you will leave with both.

Murray's Bagels, 500 Sixth Ave., between 12th and 13th streets (tel. 212/462-2830), and 242 Eighth Ave., at 23rd Street (tel. 646/638-1335; www.mbchelsea.com). There's nothing like a soft, warm bagel to begin your day, and Murray's does them beautifully. Their smoked fish goes perfectly on their bagels.

Pizza, New York-Style

Once the domain of countless first-rate pizzerias, Manhattan's pizza offerings has noticeably dropped in quality. The proliferation of various chains into the market have lowered pizza standards. Still, there is plenty of good pizza to be found. Don't be tempted by sad imitations; when it comes to pizza, search out the real deal. Here are some of the best:

DiFara Pizza, 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn, at E. 15th Street (tel. 718/258-1367; Subway: Q to Ave. J/16th St.). Some claim it's the best pizza in the city. And though the exterior is nondescript -- looking like your basic neighborhood pizzeria -- and the interior is cramped, and to be kind, somewhat unkempt with bits of congealed cheese, olive oil, sauce, and crust from possibly a generation of diners still on the tables, DiFara's lives up to its reputation, thanks to the zeal of owner Dominic DeMarco, who, for over 40 years, has made every pizza himself. Stooped but determined, DeMarco, in his own deliberate way and using top ingredients, crafts each pizza finishing with hand-grated Parmesan cheese, a few dollops of extra-virgin olive oil, and then, using scissors, hand-cutting fresh basil onto the pie. The result is a work of art, but one that might test your patience. Expect to wait an hour for a pie, maybe a bit less for a slice. But the experience, and the taste, are worth it.

Grimaldi's Pizzeria, 19 Old Fulton St., between Front and Water streets (tel. 718/858-4300; www.grimaldis.com; Subway: 2 or 3 to Clark St.; A or C to Clark St.; F to York St.). If you need incentive to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, Grimaldi's, in Brooklyn Heights, easily provides it. In fact, the pizza is so good, made in a coal oven with a rich flavorful sauce and homemade mozzarella, you might run across the bridge to get to it. Be warned: It can get very crowded at dinnertime.

John's Pizzeria, 278 Bleecker St., near Seventh Avenue South (tel. 212/243-1680). Since it has expanded from this original location -- there are now three in the city -- the once-gleaming luster of John's has faded slightly, but the pizza is still a cut above the rest. Thin-crusted and out of a coal oven with the proper ratio of tomato sauce to cheese, John's pizza has a loyal following. Though the quality at all of the locations is good, the original Bleecker Street location is the most old-world romantic and my favorite. Also at 260 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/391-7560), and 408 E. 64th St., between York and First avenues (tel. 212/935-2895).

Lombardi's, 32 Spring St., between Mulberry and Mott streets (tel. 212/941-7994; www.firstpizza.com; Subway: 6 to Spring St.). Claiming to be New York's first "licensed" pizzeria, Lombardi's opened in 1905 and still uses a generations-old Neapolitan family pizza recipe. The coal oven kicks out perfectly cooked pies, some topped with ingredients such as pancetta, homemade sausage, and even fresh-shucked clams. It's hard to go wrong here no matter what tops the pizza. A garden in the back makes it even more inviting during warm weather.

Patsy's Pizzeria, 2287 First Ave., between 117th and 118th streets (tel. 212/534-9783; www.patsyspizzeriany.com; Subway: 6 to 116th St.). My favorite, and also the favorite of Frank Sinatra, who liked it so much he had its pies flown out to Las Vegas. The coal oven here has been burning since 1932, and though the neighborhood in east Harlem where it is located has had its ups and downs, the quality of pizza has never wavered. Try the marinara pizza, a pie with fresh marinara sauce but no cheese that's so good you won't miss the mozzarella. Unlike the other pizzerias mentioned here, you can order by the slice at Patsy's. Don't be fooled by imitators using Patsy's name; this is the original and the best.

Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano, 1524 Neptune Ave., between West 15th and West 16th streets, Coney Island, Brooklyn (tel. 718/372-8606; Subway: D to Stillwell Ave./Coney Island). This unassuming little pizzeria has been at the same spot since 1924, and it makes pizzas almost exactly as it did 80 years ago -- thin crust, fresh sauce, and mozzarella, and that's about it. Don't even think about asking for an exotic topping (and why would you?). Though a fire briefly shuttered Totonno's in early 2009, it has since reopened to its simple unadorned glory.

Where to Find Your (Burger) Bliss in NYC

New York is hamburger happy. And that happiness has nothing to do with Mickey D's or BK. It's about real, solid, locally made burgers and there are plenty of places to find them without resorting to supersizing yourself. Here are some:

Brgr, 287 Seventh Ave., at 26th Street (tel. 212/488-7500; www.brgr.us). The hook here is top-quality meats and homemade toppings. The beef is natural angus from Montana Legend beef, but just as good are the turkey burgers made from Plainville Farms all-natural turkeys. Some of the toppings include Roquefort cheese, sweet onion marmalade, and homemade burger sauce. Save room for a Brgr shake made with Ronnybrook farms milk and ice cream.

Burger Joint, located discreetly behind a curtain in the lobby of Le Parker Meridien Hotel, 118 W. 57th St. (tel. 212/708-7414), is like the burger joint you might remember in college -- only the burgers are better. And for a place off the lobby of a fancy hotel, it's downright cheap.

5 Napkin Burger, 630 Ninth Ave., at 45th Street (tel. 212/757-2277; www.fivenapkinburger.com). The burger, topped with comte cheese, caramelized onions, and rosemary aioli that was made famous at Nice Matin, has been awarded its own restaurant. Now, however, it's not the only burger sold at 5 Napkin; you can try the veggie, turkey, or lamb kofta to name a few, though, in my opinion, stick with the restaurant's namesake for best results.

New York Burger Co., 303 Park Avenue South, between 23rd and 24th streets (tel. 212/254-2727), and 678 Sixth Ave., between 21st and 22nd streets (tel. 212/229-1404). Here you won't feel guilty as you devour the burgers at this "healthy" fast-food alternative. The beef is all-natural Coleman beef, devoid of hormones or antibiotics and served on a fresh-baked brioche. What do they taste like? The burgers have plenty of flavor and come in a number of varieties.

P.J. Clarke's, 915 Third Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 212/317-1616; www.pjclarkes.com). P.J. Clarke's has been a Midtown institution for over 50 years, and its hamburger, like the restaurant's old wood walls, broken telephone booth, and hidden dining nook for two, has been blessedly preserved. Nothing more than a slab of chopped meat cooked to order, on a bun; and for the curious price of $8.90, the hamburger is a simple masterpiece. There is a Clarke's in the Financial District downtown at 4 World Financial Center (tel. 212/285-1500) and a new location off Lincoln Center, 44 W. 63rd St. (tel. 212/957-9700).

Shake Shack, in Madison Square Park (tel. 212/889-6600; www.shakeshack.com). Open from the beginning of spring through most of November (and for phone orders and pickup in winter), Danny Meyer, of Gramercy Tavern, the Modern, and Eleven Madison Park fame, is behind this "shack" in the middle of Madison Square Park, where adoring fans line up early and often for takeout burgers, hot dogs, and milkshakes. Try to come during off-hours, if possible, to avoid the lines; the burgers are good, but we're just talking hamburgers here -- not worth waiting interminably for.