Neighborhoods

Financial District, South Street Seaport & Tribeca

Inexpensive -- For an inexpensive alternative in TriBeCa, consider the pub Walker's, 16 N. Moore St., at Varick Street (tel. 212/941-0142), where you can get a good burger and fries for less than $10.

Chinatown

Inexpensive -- Also consider two restaurants that have stood the test of time, Wo Hop, 17 Mott St., between Worth and Mosco streets (tel. 212/267-2536), and Vincent's Clam Bar, 119 Mott St., at Hester Street (tel. 212/226-8133; www.originalvincents.com).

A Chinatown Sweet Treat -- When in Chinatown, after sitting down at a dim sum banquet or a noodle joint, skip the feeble dessert offerings and head to one of my favorite ice cream shops in the city, the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory, 65 Bayard St., between Mott and Elizabeth streets (tel. 212/608-4170). The ice cream here features Asian flavors like almond cookie, litchi, and an incredible green tea.

SoHo & Nolita

Inexpensive -- Also consider Lombardi's Pizza, 32 Spring St., between Mott and Mulberry streets (tel. 212/941-7994;).

Greenwich Village & the Meat-Packing District

Inexpensive -- The downtown branch of Gray's Papaya is at 402 Sixth Ave., at 8th Street (tel. 212/260-3532). The original John's Pizzeria is at 278 Bleecker St., near Seventh Avenue (tel. 212/243-1680;. For one of the best slices of pizza, go to Joe's Pizza, 7 Carmine St., at Bleecker Street (tel. 212/255-3948). Also, you'll find Murray's Bagels at 500 Sixth Ave., between 12th and 13th streets (tel. 212/462-2830;).

Union Square, the Flatiron District & Gramercy Park

Inexpensive -- Don't forget Eisenberg's Coffee Shop, 174 Fifth Ave., at 22nd Street (tel. 212/675-5096), for the New York diner experience.

Also consider Danny Meyer's popular Shake Shack, in Madison Square Park (tel. 212/889-6600). For healthy burgers, try either outlet of the New York Burger Co., 303 Park Ave. South, between 23rd and 24th streets (tel. 212/254-2727), and 678 Sixth Ave., between 21st and 22nd streets (tel. 212/229-1404). For a burger with boutique quality meat, try Brgr, 287 Seventh Ave, at 26th St (tel. 212/488-7500).

Times Square & Midtown West

Very Expensive -- In addition to the choices below, consider the New York Times, four-star winner Le Bernardin, 155 W. 51st St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues (tel. 212/489-1515; www.le-bernardin.com).

Also consider the steakhouses Uncle Jack's Steakhouse, 440 Ninth Ave., at 34th Street (tel. 212/244-0005; www.unclejacks.com), Ben Benson's Steakhouse, 123 W. 52nd St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues (tel. 212/581-8888; www.benbensons.com), Benjamin Steakhouse, 52 E. 41st St, in the Dylan Hotel (tel. 212/297-9177; www.benjaminsteakhouse.com), and Quality Meats 57 W. 58th St., between Fifth and Sixth aves. (tel. 212/371-7777).

Moderate -- The family-style Italian restaurant Carmine's has a Times Square branch at 200 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/221-3800).

Inexpensive -- If you're looking for the quintessential New York deli, you have a choice between the Stage Deli, 834 Seventh Ave., between 53rd and 54th streets (tel. 212/245-7850), known for its jaw-distending celebrity-named sandwiches, and the Carnegie Deli, 854 Seventh Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 800/334-5606), the place to go for the best pastrami, corned beef, and cheesecake in town.

There is a nice outlet of John's Pizzeria in Times Square, 260 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/391-7560; subway: 1, 2, 3, 7, A, B, C, E, N, R, W, Q, S to 42nd St./Times Sq.). Also consider the aptly named Burger Joint, in the lobby of Le Parker Meridien Hotel, 118 W. 57th St. (tel. 212/708-7414), for cheap yet excellent no-frills burgers.

For the New York version of the Philadelphia cheese steak, try Tony Luke's, at 576 Ninth Ave., between 41st and 42nd streets (tel. 212/967-3055).

Midtown East & Murray Hill

Moderate -- Also consider P.J. Clarke's, 915 Third Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 212/317-1616; www.pjclarkes.com), for their old-world charm and legendary hamburger. For a more innovative, experimental hamburger, try Rare Bar & Grill, 303 Lexington Ave., between 37th and 38th streets (tel. 212/481-1999).

Inexpensive -- The lower concourse of Grand Central Terminal, 42nd Street at Park Avenue, has developed into a quick-bite bonanza that is an ideal choice for lunch -- and the setting is an architecture-lover's delight. Head downstairs and choose from among the many outlets, offering everything from bratwurst to sushi. Standouts include Junior's, an offshoot of the Brooklyn stalwart, serving deli sandwiches, terrific steak burgers, and their world-famous cheesecake in their own waiter-serviced dining area.

For a glorious meal, dining under an impressive curved and tiled ceiling, try the New York landmark Oyster Bar & Restaurant (tel. 212/490-6650; www.oysterbarny.com). Excellent soups and sandwiches (most for under $10) fall into the "inexpensive" category, but you will head on up into "moderate" and "expensive" for full meals of the fresh, well-prepared seafood. For a complete list of vendors, check out www.grandcentralterminal.com.

In addition, there's also Ess-A-Bagel at 831 Third Ave., at 51st Street (tel. 212/980-1010).

Upper West Side

Very Expensive -- Also consider the two four-star-rated restaurants on Columbus Circle: Jean-Georges, in the Trump International Hotel & Tower, 1 Central Park West, at 60th Street/Columbus Circle (tel. 212/299-3900; www.jean-georges.com), and Masa, in the Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle (tel. 212/823-9800).

Expensive -- Also consider the legendary Central Park Tavern on the Green, Central Park West and West 67th Street (tel. 212/873-3200). Here, food takes a back seat to dining in one of the city's prettiest settings. Views are wonderful; in good weather, try for a seat in the outdoor garden, with its whimsical topiary shrubs and Japanese lanterns. It's also a great place to visit during the holidays, and there's a menu just for kids.

Moderate -- Also consider Rack & Soul, 2818 Broadway, at 109th St (tel. 212/222-4800) for the unbeatable combination of barbecued ribs and pan-fried southern style fried chicken.

Inexpensive -- For breakfast or lunch, also consider Artie's Delicatessen, 2290 Broadway, between 82nd and 83rd streets (tel. 212/579-5959; www.arties.com), and Barney Greengrass, the Sturgeon King, 541 Amsterdam Ave., between 86th and 87th streets (tel. 212/724-4707), two of the best Jewish delis in town.

You'll find some of the best bagels in New York on the Upper West Side, including H&H Bagels, 2239 Broadway, at 80th Street (tel. 212/595-8003), and Absolute Bagels, 2788 Broadway, between 106th and 107th streets (tel. 212/932-2052).

For non-vegetarians and the non-health-minded, consider the cheapest, yet in some ways most comforting, indulgence: Gray's Papaya, 2090 Broadway, at 72nd Street (tel. 212/799-0243). This 24-hour hot-dog stand is a New York institution.

Upper East Side

Very Expensive -- Also consider elegant Daniel, 60 E. 65th St., between Madison and Park avenues (tel. 212/288-0033; www.danielnyc.com).

Inexpensive -- For better-than-average pizza, head to Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano, 1544 Second Ave., between 80th and 81st streets (tel. 212/327-2800), the Manhattan branch of the famous Totonno's in Coney Island.

Harlem

Inexpensive -- Also consider Patsy's Pizzeria.

The Soul of Harlem -- There is much soul in Manhattan, but Harlem seems to possess the mother lode when it comes to food. Here is one man's primer to Harlem's soul food:

Amy Ruth's, 113 W. 116th St., between Lenox and Seventh avenues (tel. 212/280-8779). Claiming to be authentic soul, Amy Ruth's has become a mecca for Harlem celebs, with the kitschy gimmick of naming platters after some of them, such as the Rev. Al Sharpton (chicken and waffles) and the Rev. Calvin O. Butts III (chicken wings and waffles). Most of the celebrities gained their fame in Harlem, as did the chicken and waffles, or fried whiting and waffles, or steak and waffles. You can't go wrong with anything here as long as waffles are included.

Charles' Southern Style Kitchen, 2837 Eighth Ave., between 151st and 152nd streets (tel. 877/813-2920 or 212/926-4313). Nothing fancy about this place, just a brightly lit, 25-seater on a not-very-attractive block in upper Harlem. But you don't come here for fancy, you come for soul food at its simplest and freshest. And come hungry. The $13 all-you-can-eat buffet features crunchy, moist, pan-fried chicken; ribs in a tangy sauce, with meat falling off the bone; smoky stewed oxtails in a thick brown onion gravy; macaroni and cheese; collard greens with bits of smoked turkey; black-eyed peas; and corn bread, warm and not overly sweet. Hours can be erratic, so call ahead before you make the trek.

Copeland's, 547 W. 145th St., between Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue (tel. 212/234-2357). With food almost as good as Charles' but in a much more elegant setting (you'll find tables adorned with china and white tablecloths), Copeland's has been dishing out excellent soul food for 40 years. Fried chicken is their trademark, but I favor the braised short ribs. The jazz buffet on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday nights is a double treat.

M&G Diner, 383 W. 125th St., at St. Nicholas Avenue (tel. 212/864-7326). All the soul-food joints I've listed here serve top-notch fried chicken, but the best I've had is the perfectly pan-fried, supermoist bird at the M&G. This small, no-frills diner, open 8am-11:30pm, is a treat any time of day. Start your day with a breakfast of eggs with salmon croquettes or eggs with grits or finish it with the chicken, chitterlings, or meatloaf. All the sides are freshly made, and the desserts, especially the sweet-potato pie, are phenomenal. There's also a great jukebox loaded with soul to complement the food.

Miss Mamie's Spoonbread Too, 366 W. 110th St., between Columbus and Manhattan avenues (tel. 212/865-6744). Entering this strawberry-curtained charmer is like stepping into South Carolina. But you are in Harlem, or at least the southern fringe of Harlem, and you won't be paying South Carolina soul prices, or Harlem soul prices, either. Still, despite the prices, Miss Mamie's is the real deal, especially their barbecued ribs, falling off the bone in a sweet peppery sauce, and the smothered chicken, fried and then covered with thick pan gravy.

Sylvia's, 328 Lenox Ave., between 126th and 127th streets (tel. 212/996-0660; www.sylviassoulfood.com). Sylvia is the self-proclaimed queen of not only Harlem soul food but all soul food. In reality, Sylvia is queen of self-promotion. Sylvia's now has become a franchise, with canned food products, beauty and hair products, and fragrances and colognes. With all that attention to merchandising, the food at her original Harlem restaurant has suffered and now has regressed into a tourist trap. If you plan to go, however, make it on Sunday for the gospel brunch, which is an absolute joy.

The Bronx

If you are looking for old-fashioned, Italian-American food -- the kind you used to get before waiters began asking if you want your water tap or sparkling -- look no further than the Bronx. The best concentration of Italian-American "red sauce" restaurants can be found in the Little Italy of the Bronx, on and around Arthur Avenue. One of my favorites is Mario's Restaurant, 2342 Arthur Ave., between Crescent Avenue and East 187th Street (tel. 718/584-1188), where the Neapolitan pizza is magnificent and the ziti with broccoli unforgettable. Reservations are accepted, as are American Express, Discover, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa. Wonderful Dominick's, on the same block at 2335 Arthur Ave. (tel. 718/733-2807), is the inspiration behind family-style re-creations like Carmine's. There's no menu here, but trust your waiter to ramble off what is on the day's menu, which almost always includes tender calamari marinara and luscious veal Francese. There's always a crowd so go early or expect to wait for a communal table. Reservations are not accepted and please, cash only.

To get to Arthur Avenue, take the no. 4 or D train to Fordham Road and then the no. 12 bus East; the no. 2 or 5 train to Pelham Parkway, and the no. 12 bus West; or the Metro-North Harlem line to Fordham Road, and the shuttle bus to Belmont and the Bronx Zoo.

A few miles east of Arthur Avenue you'll find another classic Italian "red sauce" restaurant. This one, Frankie and Johnnie's Pine Restaurant, 1913 Bronxdale Ave., between Matthews and Muliner avenues (tel. 718/792-5956), has been around so long, I remember watching the Times Square ball drop on a black-and-white television in the dining room while devouring a bowl of zuppa di pesce one lonely New Year's Eve many years ago. I remember that New Year's, though lonely, very fondly mainly because of that zuppa di pesce. Now the Pine, as it's known, has become popular as a hangout for New York Yankees who crave pasta after their games at Yankee Stadium. As a result, you'll find plenty of baseball memorabilia on the walls. Reservations are not accepted, and cash only. Take the no. 2 or 5 train to Bronx Park East.

Brooklyn

Very Expensive -- At the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge, with spectacular views of the New York skyline, The River Café, 1 Water St. (tel. 718/522-5200), could possibly be the most romantic special-occasion restaurant in New York. Service is good, prices are steep, and the contemporary Continental cuisine is more than adequate, but nothing can top that view.

Moderate -- Consider the DUMBO outpost of the comforting, comfort-food Bubby's, Bubby's Brooklyn, 1 Main St., at Water Street (tel. 718/222-0666).

Inexpensive -- The fabulous Grimaldi's Pizza is at 19 Old Fulton St., between Front and Water streets (tel. 718/858-4300); and out in Coney Island, the 1924-established and little-changed Totonno's is at 1524 Neptune Ave., between West 15th and West 16th streets (tel. 718/372-8606).

Also in Coney Island is the famous Nathan's Famous, 1310 Surf Ave., at Stillwell Avenue (tel. 718/946-2202), for hot dogs by the beach. See how many you can eat.

If you are traveling to BAM to see a show, you'll be tempted to have either your pre- or post-theater meal at Junior's, 386 Flatbush Ave., at DeKalb Avenue (tel. 718/852-5257). Everyone knows about Junior's world-famous cheesecake, the epitome of New York cheesecake, but don't miss the opportunity to experience the authentic Brooklyn atmosphere here, complete with old-school waiters you'll not soon forget. Don't expect anything fancy, but do expect great cheesecake.

The best ice cream in New York can be found right over the Brooklyn Bridge at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, Fulton Ferry Landing Pier, Brooklyn (tel. 718/246-3963). Everything is freshly made, including the hot fudge for your sundae.

Restaurants Grow in Brooklyn -- It might seem like a stretch to leave Manhattan to experience fine, innovative dining. But a trend is developing in Brooklyn; top chefs are staking out claims all over the increasingly gentrified borough. There is one street in particular that has become a mecca for exciting restaurants. That street is Smith and it runs through the neighborhoods of Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens.

The Smith Street awakening began in 2005 when The Grocery, 288 Smith St. (tel. 718/596-3335), cracked into the top food category with a rating of 26, if that means anything. But the awakening was only for those not familiar with The Grocery, because those in the neighborhood would often line up for a taste of the market fresh dishes prepared by chef/owners Charles Kiely and Sharon Pachter.

There are a number of Italian restaurants on Smith Street but one I particularly like is at 116 Smith Street, La Lunetta (tel. 718/488-6269), specializing in small plates and interesting pastas like penne with homemade ricotta and lamb.

Representing a Gallic slant is Café Luluc, 214 Smith St. (tel. 718/625-3815) with its high tin-ceilings and open, airy space giving it a bistro feel. But the bistro specialties aside, Café Luluc is open every day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and is most popular for its eggs.

It's worth traveling to Smith Street to Zaytoons, 283 Smith St. (tel. 718/875-1880; www.zaytoonsrestaurant.com) for Middle Eastern food as good, or arguably better, than you will find on the other side of the East River.

You can reach most of these restaurants fairly easily if you take the F train to Carroll St., which has an exit right onto Smith St.

Queens

Inexpensive -- The no. 7 train is sometimes known as the International Express. Take it out of Manhattan and through the borough of Queens and you will pass one ethnic neighborhood after another. You could write a book on all the different restaurants located around the no. 7 train in Queens. Here are a few of my favorites:

Get off at the 69th Street stop in Woodside, walk 1 block north, and you might begin to detect the aroma of barbecued meats. That smell is coming from Ihawan, 40-06 70th St. (tel. 718/205-1480), which claims to be home of the best barbecue in town. But unless you've been to the Philippines, Ihawan's country of origin, this is barbecue unlike any you've tasted before. Here you can sample barbecued pork on bamboo skewers, grilled marinated pork chops, and the local favorite, grilled marinated pork belly. The menu here also includes other Filipino specialties such as dinuguan, pork stewed in pork-blood gravy, and lapu-lapu, a whitefish, served in tamarind soup.

If you get off the train at the 82nd Street/Jackson Heights stop, a few steps from the elevated tracks, you'll find Arunee Thai, 37-68 79th St., off Roosevelt Avenue (tel. 718/205-5559). Here, the Thai food is so authentic (and the clientele mostly Thai) that the menus are written in Thai and English. Everything is delicious, and the spice level is not toned down for delicate palates. The fish, served whole on the bone, with chili, garlic, and hot-and-sour sauce, will either take the chill off a cold winter's day or, if it's summer, the chiles will cool down your overheated body and soul.

Exit the last stop of the no. 7 train, Flushing-Main Street and you might think you're in downtown Beijing. Where you are is Flushing's Chinatown, bigger than Manhattan's and crammed with tea houses, noodle shops, banquet halls, bakeries and Asian supermarkets. The food choices are staggering and you won't go wrong at just about any of the countless restaurants. My favorite is a bare bones Szechuan restaurant called Little Pepper, 133-43 Roosevelt Avenue (tel. 718/739-7788), where the food is as authentic as it gets, which means spicy. There are exotic items on the menu like bull frog, rabbit, eel, and a variety of offal, but if that is too challenging, you can't go wrong with the basics like the double-cooked pork or the family-style soups.