Neighborhoods

Financial District, South Street Seaport & TriBeCa

For an inexpensive alternative in TriBeCa, consider the pub Walker's, 16 N. Moore St., at Varick Street (tel. 212/941-0142), where you can get a good burger and fries for less than $10.

Chinatown

Consider two restaurants that have stood the test of time, Wo Hop, 17 Mott St., between Worth and Mosco streets (tel. 212/962-8617), and Vincent's Clam Bar, 119 Mott St., at Hester Street (tel. 212/226-8133; www.originalvincents.com).

A Chinatown Sweet Treat -- When in Chinatown, after sitting down at a dim sum banquet or a noodle joint, skip the feeble dessert offerings and head to one of my favorite ice cream shops in the city, the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory, 65 Bayard St., between Mott and Elizabeth streets (tel. 212/608-4170; www.chinatownicecreamfactory.com). The ice cream here features Asian flavors such as almond cookie, litchi, and an incredible green tea.

SoHo & Nolita

Also consider Lombardi's Pizza, 32 Spring St., between Mott and Mulberry streets (tel. 212/941-7994).

Greenwich Village and the Meat-Packing District

The downtown branch of Gray's Papaya is at 402 Sixth Ave., at 8th Street (tel. 212/260-3532). The original John's Pizzeria is at 278 Bleecker St., near Seventh Avenue (tel. 212/243-1680). For one of the best slices of pizza, go to Joe's Pizza, 7 Carmine St., at Bleecker Street (tel. 212/255-3946). Also, you'll find Murray's Bagels at 500 Sixth Ave., between 12th and 13th streets (tel. 212/462-2830).

A great neighborhood hangout that serves vegetarian/vegan food, is 'sNice, 45 Eighth Ave, at W. 4th St. (tel. 212/645-0310). You don't have to be vegetarian to enjoy the hearty, homemade sandwiches, wraps, salads, desserts, and tea/coffee served. There are board games, Wi-Fi, shared tables, and an all-ages crowd that appreciates the ambience. It's open Sunday to Thursday 7:30am to 10pm and Friday to Saturday 8am to 10pm.

Union Square, the Flatiron District & Gramercy Park

Don't forget Eisenberg's Coffee Shop, 174 Fifth Ave., at 22nd Street (tel. 212/675-5096), for the New York diner experience.

Also consider Danny Meyer's popular Shake Shack, in Madison Square Park (tel. 212/889-6600). For healthy burgers, try either outlet of the New York Burger Co., 303 Park Ave. S., between 23rd and 24th streets (tel. 212/254-2727), and 678 Sixth Ave., between 21st and 22nd streets (tel. 212/229-1404). For a burger with boutique quality meat, try Brgr, 287 Seventh Ave, at 26th St (tel. 212/488-7500)

Chelsea

Paradise Café, 141 Eighth Ave. (btwn 16th and 17th sts.; tel. 212/647-0066) is a neighborhood gem in so-trendy-its-exhausting Chelsea, where it's hard to find a good meal for under $10. A sign behind the counter reads "If you insist on ordering using Starbucks terms, we will be forced to charge you Starbucks prices." So don't order a "venti," but do order all kinds of free-trade tea and coffee, sandwiches, wraps, smoothies and homemade desserts. The narrow storefront has French doors that are left open in good weather, and you can sit on a bench out front or lounge at one of the indoor tables, reading the newspapers and magazines scattered about and enjoying the original art on the walls. It's open daily from 6am to 9pm.

Times Square & Midtown West

Very Expensive -- Consider the New York Times, four-star winner Le Bernardin, 155 W. 51st St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues (tel. 212/554-1515; www.le-bernardin.com).

Also consider the steakhouses Uncle Jack's Steakhouse, 440 Ninth Ave., at 34th Street (tel. 212/244-0005; www.unclejacks.com), Ben Benson's Steakhouse, 123 W. 52nd St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues (tel. 212/581-8888; www.benbensons.com), Benjamin Steakhouse, 52 E. 41st St., in the Dylan Hotel (tel. 212/297-9177; www.benjaminsteakhouse.com), and Quality Meats 57 W. 58th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues (tel. 212/371-7777).

Moderate -- The family-style Italian restaurant Carmine's has a Times Square branch at 200 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/221-3800; www.carminesnyc.com).

Inexpensive -- If you're looking for the quintessential New York deli, you have a choice between the Stage Deli, 834 Seventh Ave., between 53rd and 54th streets (tel. 212/245-7850), known for its jaw-distending celebrity-named sandwiches, and the Carnegie Deli, 854 Seventh Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 800/334-5606), the place to go for the best pastrami, corned beef, and cheesecake in town.

There is a nice outlet of John's Pizzeria in Times Square, 260 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/391-7560; subway: 1, 2, 3, 7, A, B, C, E, N, R, W, Q, S to 42nd St./Times Sq.). Also consider the aptly named Burger Joint, in the lobby of Le Parker Meridien Hotel, 118 W. 57th St. (tel. 212/708-7414), for cheap yet excellent no-frills burgers.

For the New York version of the Philadelphia cheese steak, try Shorty's, at 576 Ninth Ave., between 41st and 42nd streets (tel. 212/967-3055).

Midtown East & Murray Hill

Moderate -- Consider P.J. Clarke's, 915 Third Ave., at 55th Street (tel. 212/317-1616; www.pjclarkes.com), for their old-world charm and legendary hamburger. For a more innovative, experimental hamburger, try Rare Bar & Grill, 303 Lexington Ave., between 37th and 38th streets (tel. 212/481-1999).

Inexpensive -- The lower concourse of Grand Central Terminal, 42nd Street at Park Avenue, has developed into a quick-bite bonanza that is an ideal choice for lunch -- and the setting is an architecture-lover's delight. Head downstairs and choose from among the many outlets, offering everything from bratwurst to sushi. Standouts include Junior's, an offshoot of the Brooklyn stalwart, serving deli sandwiches, terrific steak burgers, and their world-famous cheesecake in their own waiter-serviced dining area.

For a glorious meal, dining under an impressive curved and tiled ceiling, try the New York landmark Oyster Bar & Restaurant (tel. 212/490-6650; www.oysterbarny.com). Excellent soups and sandwiches (most for under $10) fall into the inexpensive category, but you will head on up into moderate and expensive for full meals of the fresh, well-prepared seafood. For a complete list of vendors, check out www.grandcentralterminal.com.

There's also Ess-A-Bagel at 831 Third Ave., at 51st Street (tel. 212/980-1010).

Upper West Side

Very Expensive -- Consider the two four-star-rated restaurants on Columbus Circle: Jean-Georges, in the Trump International Hotel & Tower, 1 Central Park West, at 60th Street/Columbus Circle (tel. 212/299-3900; www.jean-georges.com), and Masa, in the Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle (tel. 212/823-9800).

Expensive -- Consider the legendary Central Park Tavern on the Green, at Central Park West and West 67th Street (tel. 212/873-3200). Here, food takes a back seat to dining in one of the city's prettiest settings. Views are wonderful; in good weather, try for a seat in the outdoor garden, with its whimsical topiary shrubs and Japanese lanterns. It's also a great place to visit during the holidays, and there's a menu just for kids.

Moderate -- Also consider Rack & Soul, 2818 Broadway, at 109th St. (tel. 212/222-4800), for the unbeatable combination of barbecued ribs and pan-fried southern style fried chicken.

Inexpensive -- For breakfast or lunch, also consider Artie's Delicatessen, 2290 Broadway, between 82nd and 83rd streets (tel. 212/579-5959; www.arties.com), and Barney Greengrass, the Sturgeon King, 541 Amsterdam Ave., between 86th and 87th streets (tel. 212/724-4707), two of the best Jewish delis in town.

You'll find some of the best bagels in New York on the Upper West Side, including H&H Bagels, 2239 Broadway, at 80th Street (tel. 212/595-8003), and Absolute Bagels, 2788 Broadway, between 106th and 107th streets (tel. 212/932-2052).

For nonvegetarians and the non-health-minded, consider the cheapest, yet in some ways most comforting, indulgence: Gray's Papaya, 2090 Broadway, at 72nd Street (tel. 212/799-0243). This 24-hour hot-dog stand is a New York institution. See the box "Food in a N.Y. Minute" for more.

Upper East Side

Very Expensive -- Also consider elegant Daniel, 60 E. 65th St., between Madison and Park avenues (tel. 212/288-0033; www.danielnyc.com).

Inexpensive -- For better-than-average pizza, head to Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano, 1544 Second Ave., between 80th and 81st streets (tel. 212/327-2800), the Manhattan branch of the famous Totonno's in Coney Island.

The Soul of Harlem

There is much soul in Manhattan, but Harlem seems to possess the mother lode when it comes to food. Here is one man's primer to Harlem's soul food:

Amy Ruth's, 113 W. 116th St., between Lenox and Seventh avenues (tel. 212/280-8779; www.amyruthsharlem.com). Claiming to be authentic soul, Amy Ruth's has become a mecca for Harlem celebs, with the kitschy gimmick of naming platters after some of them, such as the Rev. Al Sharpton (chicken and waffles) and the Rev. Calvin O. Butts III (chicken wings and waffles). Most of the celebrities gained their fame in Harlem, as did the chicken and waffles, or fried whiting and waffles, or steak and waffles. You can't go wrong with anything here as long as waffles are included.

Charles' Southern Style Kitchen, 2837 Eighth Ave., between 151st and 152nd streets (tel. 212/926-4313). Nothing fancy about this place, just a brightly lit, 25-seater on a not-very-attractive block in upper Harlem. But you don't come here for fancy, you come for soul food at its simplest and freshest. And come hungry. The $13 all-you-can-eat buffet features crunchy, moist, pan-fried chicken; ribs in a tangy sauce, with meat falling off the bone; smoky stewed oxtails in a thick brown onion gravy; macaroni and cheese; collard greens with bits of smoked turkey; black-eyed peas; and corn bread, warm and not overly sweet. Hours can be erratic, so call ahead before you make the trek.

M&G Diner, 383 W. 125th St., at St. Nicholas Avenue (tel. 212/864-7326). All the soul-food joints I've listed here serve top-notch fried chicken, but the best I've had is the perfectly pan-fried, supermoist bird at the M&G. This small, no-frills diner, open 8am to 11:30pm, is a treat any time of day. Start your day with a breakfast of eggs with salmon croquettes or eggs with grits or finish it with the chicken, chitterlings, or meatloaf. All the sides are freshly made, and the desserts, especially the sweet-potato pie, are phenomenal. There's also a great jukebox loaded with soul to complement the food.

Miss Mamie's Spoonbread Too, 366 W. 110th St., between Columbus and Manhattan avenues (tel. 212/865-6744; www.spoonbreadinc.com). Entering this strawberry-curtained charmer is like stepping into South Carolina. But you are in Harlem, or at least the southern fringe of Harlem, and you won't be paying South Carolina soul prices, or Harlem soul prices, either. Still, despite the prices, Miss Mamie's is the real deal, especially their barbecued ribs, falling off the bone in a sweet peppery sauce, and the smothered chicken, fried and then covered with thick pan gravy.

Sylvia's, 328 Lenox Ave., between 126th and 127th streets (tel. 212/996-0660; www.sylviassoulfood.com). Sylvia is the self-proclaimed queen of not only Harlem soul food but all soul food. In reality, Sylvia is queen of self-promotion. Sylvia's now has become a franchise, with canned food products, beauty and hair products, and fragrances and colognes. With all that attention to merchandising, the food at her original Harlem restaurant has suffered and now has regressed into a tourist trap. If you plan to go, however, make it on Sunday for the gospel brunch, which is an absolute joy.

The Bronx

If you are looking for old-fashioned, Italian-American food -- the kind you used to get before waiters began asking if you want your water tap or sparkling -- look no farther than the Bronx. The best concentration of Italian-American "red sauce" restaurants can be found in the Little Italy of the Bronx, on and around Arthur Avenue. One of my favorites is Mario's Restaurant, 2342 Arthur Ave., between Crescent Avenue and East 187th Street (tel. 718/584-1188), where the Neapolitan pizza is magnificent and the ziti with broccoli unforgettable. Reservations are accepted, as are American Express, Discover, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa. Wonderful Dominick's, on the same block at 2335 Arthur Ave. (tel. 718/733-2807), is the inspiration behind family-style re-creations such as Carmine's. There's no menu here, but trust your waiter to ramble off what is on the day's menu, which almost always includes tender calamari marinara and luscious veal Francese. There's always a crowd, so go early or expect to wait for a communal table. Reservations are not accepted and please, cash only.

To get to Arthur Avenue, take the no. 4 or D train to Fordham Road and then the no. 12 bus east; the no. 2 or 5 train to Pelham Parkway, and the no. 12 bus west; or the Metro-North Harlem line to Fordham Road, and the shuttle bus to Belmont and the Bronx Zoo.

A few miles east of Arthur Avenue you'll find another classic Italian "red sauce" restaurant. This one, Frankie and Johnnie's Pine Restaurant, 1913 Bronxdale Ave., between Matthews and Muliner avenues (tel. 718/792-5956), has been around so long, I remember watching the Times Square ball drop on a black-and-white television in the dining room while devouring a bowl of zuppa di pesce one lonely New Year's Eve many years ago. I remember that New Year's, though lonely, very fondly mainly because of that zuppa di pesce. Now the Pine, as it's known, has become popular as a hangout for New York Yankees who crave pasta after their games at Yankee Stadium. As a result, you'll find plenty of baseball memorabilia on the walls. Reservations are not accepted, and it's cash only. Take the no. 2 or 5 train to Bronx Park East.

Brooklyn

Restaurants Grow in Brooklyn -- It might seem like a stretch to leave Manhattan to experience fine, innovative dining. But a trend is developing in Brooklyn; top chefs are staking out claims all over the increasingly gentrified borough. There is one street in particular that has become a mecca for exciting restaurants. That street is Smith and it runs through the neighborhoods of Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens.

The Smith Street awakening began in 2005 when The Grocery, 288 Smith St. (tel. 718/596-3335; www.thegroceryrestaurant.com), cracked into the top food category with a rating of 26, if that means anything. But the awakening was only for those not familiar with the Grocery, because those in the neighborhood would often line up for a taste of the market fresh dishes prepared by chef/owners Charles Kiely and Sharon Pachter.

There are a number of Italian restaurants on Smith Street, but one I particularly like is at 116 Smith Street, La Lunetta (tel. 718/488-6269), specializing in small plates and interesting pastas such as penne with homemade ricotta and lamb.

Representing a Gallic slant is Café Luluc, 214 Smith St. (tel. 718/625-3815) with its high tin-ceilings and open, airy space giving it a bistro feel. But the bistro specialties aside, Café Luluc is open every day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and is most popular for its eggs.

It's worth traveling to Smith Street to Zaytoons, 283 Smith St. (tel. 718/875-1880; www.zaytoonsrestaurant.com) for Middle Eastern food as good, or arguably better, than you will find on the other side of the East River.

You can reach most of these restaurants fairly easily if you take the F train to Carroll St., which has an exit right onto Smith Street.

Very Expensive -- At the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge, with spectacular views of the New York skyline, The River Café, 1 Water St. (tel. 718/522-5200), could possibly be the most romantic special-occasion restaurant in New York. Service is good, prices are steep, and the contemporary Continental cuisine is more than adequate, but nothing can top that view.

Moderate -- Consider Bubby's Brooklyn, 1 Main St., at Water Street (tel. 718/222-0666), the DUMBO outpost of the comforting, comfort-food Bubby's,

Inexpensive -- The fabulous Grimaldi's Pizza is at 19 Old Fulton St., between Front and Water streets (tel. 718/858-4300). Out in Coney Island, the 1924-established and little-changed Totonno's is at 1524 Neptune Ave., between W.15th and W. 16th streets (tel. 718/372-8606).

Also in Coney Island is the famous Nathan's Famous, 1310 Surf Ave., at Stillwell Avenue (tel. 718/946-2202), for hot dogs by the beach. See how many you can eat.

If you are traveling to BAM to see a show, you'll be tempted to have either your pre- or post-theater meal at Junior's, 386 Flatbush Ave., at DeKalb Avenue (tel. 718/852-5257). Everyone knows about Junior's world-famous cheesecake, the epitome of New York cheesecake, but don't miss the opportunity to experience the authentic Brooklyn atmosphere here, complete with old-school waiters you'll not soon forget. Don't expect anything fancy, but do expect great cheesecake.

The best ice cream in New York can be found right over the Brooklyn Bridge at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, Fulton Ferry Landing Pier, Brooklyn (tel. 718/246-3963). Everything is freshly made, including the hot fudge for your sundae.

Queens

The no. 7 train is sometimes known as the International Express. Take it out of Manhattan and through the borough of Queens and you will pass one ethnic neighborhood after another. You could write a book on all the different restaurants located around the no. 7 train in Queens. Here are a few of my favorites:

Get off at the 69th Street stop in Woodside, walk 1 block north, and you might begin to detect the aroma of barbecued meats. That smell is coming from Ihawan, 40-06 70th St. (tel. 718/205-1480), which claims to be home of the best barbecue in town. But unless you've been to the Philippines, Ihawan's country of origin, this is barbecue unlike any you've tasted before. Here you can sample barbecued pork on bamboo skewers, grilled marinated pork chops, and the local favorite, grilled marinated pork belly. The menu here also includes other Filipino specialties such as dinuguan, pork stewed in pork-blood gravy, and lapu-lapu, a whitefish, served in tamarind soup.

If you get off the train at the 82nd Street/Jackson Heights stop, a few steps from the elevated tracks, you'll find Arunee Thai, 37-68 79th St., off Roosevelt Avenue (tel. 718/205-5559). Here, the Thai food is so authentic (and the clientele mostly Thai) that the menus are written in Thai and English. Everything is delicious, and the spice level is not toned down for delicate palates. The fish, served whole on the bone, with chili, garlic, and hot-and-sour sauce, will either take the chill off a cold winter's day or, if it's summer, the chilies will cool down your overheated body and soul.

Exit the last stop of the no. 7 train, Flushing-Main Street and you might think you're in downtown Beijing. Where you are is Flushing's Chinatown, bigger than Manhattan's and crammed with tea houses, noodle shops, banquet halls, bakeries and Asian supermarkets. The food choices are staggering and you won't go wrong at just about any of the countless restaurants. My favorite is a bare bones Szechuan restaurant called Little Pepper, 133-43 Roosevelt Avenue (tel. 718/939-7788), where the food is as authentic as it gets, which means spicy. There are exotic items on the menu, such as bull frog, rabbit, eel, and a variety of offal, but if that is too challenging, you can't go wrong with such basics as the double-cooked pork or the family-style soups. For a Flushing Chinatown experience like no other, try Minni's Shabu Shabu, 136-17 38th Avenue (tel. 718/762-6277), where in front of each setting at each table there is a built-in soup bowl with your own controls. You order what you want to cook in the broth including raw sliced beef or pork or a variety of seafood, add sauces, condiments and vegetables and let it cook right in front of you. It takes a bit of practice, but by the end of your meal, you'll have the procedure down for the perfect, and hearty, Chinese soup.

Where the Editor Eats (Queens version) -- Queens may not be the dining destination that Brooklyn is becoming, but there's lots of good, eclectic cuisine, usually much less expensive than across the East River. Combine a trip to one or more of the Western Queens attractions with a meal at one of my favorite spots off the N/W trains.

If you're headed to the American Museum of the Moving Image, walk a few blocks down 36th Ave. for lunch or dinner at Malagueta at 25-35 36th Ave. (at 28th St.; tel. 718/937-4821). Chef Herbert Gomes combines his Brazilian background with his training at the French Culinary Institute to create a menu that has made his corner storefront into a favorite. (It's regularly cited as one of the city's best in Time Out New York's "Cheap Eats" issue). It's small, but classy, with original art on the walls and Brazilian music playing in the background. Such appetizers as linguiça sausage with yucca fries and cilantro mayo lead up to a menu of main courses rarely topping $12 (except for seafood specials). My favorite is the picanha steak, served with rice and beans, and a delicate vinaigrette and farofa. There's wine by the glass and bottle, and some scrumptious desserts (we like the passionfruit mousse). It's open Tuesday to Thursday noon to 10pm; Friday noon to 11pm; Saturday 1 to 11pm; and Sunday 1 to 10pm.

Combine a visit to the Noguchi Museum and Socrates Sculpture Garden with a stop at Sanford's Restaurant, just off the Broadway stop on the N/W line at 30-13 Broadway, in Astoria (tel. 718/935-9269; www.sanfordsnyc.com), which has been serving the neighborhood since 1930. From a more traditional diner, the current generation of the Karalekas family, which owns the place, has kept such favorites as "build your own" omelets and a fantastic chicken orzo soup and buffed up the menu with entrees ranging from a three-mushroom truffle risotto to a penne with smoked salmon and applewood bacon in a cream sauce. There's also a well-chosen (and reasonable) beer and wine menu. We go for the panini, the focaccia, the weekend brunch (with a mimosa, wine, or fresh juice), the burgers, and everything in between. Burgers and omelets generally run well under $10, with dinner entrees (which include soup or salad) from $12 up, and popular prix-fixe brunch on weekends for $11. It's open 24/7/365, and you might spot locals lingering over meals at any hour with their laptops using the Wi-Fi. Note that it's cash only.

One of the few restaurants in the city serving pizza in a coal-fired oven (it cooks very quickly, and adds a crispness to the thin crust) is a couple blocks farther down Broadway at Sac's Place at 25-41 Broadway (tel. 718/204-5002). Brothers Domenico and Anthony Sacramone have a full Italian menu, but it's the pizza, made with homemade mozzarella and San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy, that gets the love from Astoria and beyond. You can get it to take out, but why not sit down and enjoy the homey ambience (and live music from a jazz trio a couple nights a week, and occasionally an Elvis impersonator)? Pizzas range from $8.95 to $16 for a cheese pizza, and there's a long list of toppings, ranging from homemade meatballs to sautéed portobello mushroom in white wine. Mmm. It's open Sunday to Thursday noon to 11pm; Friday to Saturday noon to midnight.