Steakhouses

The number of prime-cut palaces in New York continues to sprout like mushrooms. Peter Luger Steakhouse has been the steakhouse standard for years, but it gets a serious run for it's money from, stylishly ensconced in the TimeWarner Center, Porter House New York Beginning the steak-as-style trend a few years back was BLT Steak, which proves there is substance with the style. Going overboard on the style side as well as pretty much everything else is Kobe Club, the nightclub posing as a steakhouse specializing in its namesake beef. The newest addition to the steakhouse galaxy was restaurateur Stephen Hanson's big (in many ways) venture Primehouse. Despite its bawdy name, Strip House steaks are no-nonsense. Wall Street traders and financial bigwigs often have carnivorous reputations, and at Harry's Steak and Café they don't have to go far to satisfy their cravings. Some of the city's oldest restaurants are steakhouses, and two of the oldest of those are Frankie & Johnnie's and Keens Steakhouse which was formerly known as a chophouse for their selection of such chops as their acclaimed mutton chop.

Don't expect an overpriced burger factory with waiters in Bulls jerseys and basketball-shaped plates from Michael Jordan's -- The Steak House, on the mezzanine level overlooking the main concourse at Grand Central Terminal (tel. 212/655-2300; www.theglaziergroup.com). Bursting with Beaux Arts-meets-Art Deco grandeur, Michael Jordan's is wholly for grownups. And with a perfect view of the legendary sky ceiling, this is more than just the city's best-looking steakhouse -- it's an incredible "only-in-New York" dining experience.

One of the best of the traditional old-world steakhouses is the clubby, fun Bull and Bear, in the Waldorf=Astoria, 301 Park Ave., between 49th and 50th streets (tel. 212/872-1275), which serves the best New York strip I've had in the city. You can also call the Post House, where seats are claimed by VIPS; clubby, but that won't deter me from enjoying their Cajun-rubbed rib-eye.

There are better steaks to be had in New York, but there aren't many better steakhouses than Ben Benson's Steakhouse, 123 W. 52nd St., between Sixth and Seventh avenues (tel. 212/581-8888; www.benbensons.com). Smack in the middle of Midtown, Ben Benson's is loud and large, and though it's definitely a man's world at Ben's, women are treated with respect here.

Like Ben Benson's, Uncle Jack's Steakhouse, 440 Ninth Ave., at 34th Street (tel. 212/244-0005; www.unclejacks.com), is testosterone-fueled and the decor is plush and bawdy with huge banquettes. Portions are monstrous; the 48-ounce porterhouse, Uncle Jack's signature dish, is large enough for a big family.

Most entrees at these steakhouses tend to fall in the $22-to-$38 range. Always book ahead and inquire about dress codes, especially at the old-school spots.

There are steakhouses with claims to Peter Luger's all over the city, a few started by ex-Luger waiters. But the Benjamin Steakhouse, 52 E. 41st St., in the Dylan Hotel (tel. 212/297-9177; www.benjaminsteakhouse.com), is the only one to feature an ex-chef, chef Arturo, from Luger's. The result is not quite Luger's-quality steaks, but it does have better service and a dramatic room highlighted by a huge walk-in fireplace.

Like the Benjamin, Quality Meats, 57 W. 58th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues (tel. 212/371-7777; www.qualitymeatsnyc.com), is set in a stunning bi-level space designed by the famous team of AvroKO (Sapa). And the quality of the food matches the quality of the design, with some nontraditional steakhouse menu items such as pan-roasted lamb T-bones with figs and mint, and a flatiron steak with blackberries.