This is one of only a few Portuguese eateries in New York City, and the cozy, comfortable charmer is the best. Pao!, which translates to "bread," keeps it simple, and the results are pure and authentic. Start with caldo verde, traditional Portuguese soup, made with kale, potatoes, and smoky linguica (Portuguese sausage). The baked-octopus salad, tender and soaked in a garlic/cilantro vinaigrette, rivals any I've had in numerous Greek restaurants, while the cod cakes, another Portuguese standard, are light and not too salty. The combination of pork and seafood might seem odd, but it's common in Portugal. Salt cod is to Portugal what hamburgers are to the United States, and I'll take Pao!'s hearty bacalhau a braz -- salt cod with egg, onion, and straw potatoes -- over hamburger most any day. To complement the food, stick with the many delicious Portuguese wines. Desserts are egg-based and delicate; the soft pound cake with lemon egg custard filling is heavenly.
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