Nyonya

One of the few, and one of the best, Malaysian restaurants in Manhattan is Chinatown’s Nyonya. This spacious, bustling restaurant designed like a tiki hut offers efficient, friendly service, but it’s the huge portions of spicy food that are the real treat. Coconut milk, curry, and chili pepper–laden dishes are staples of Malaysian cuisine. The Malaysian national dish, roti canai (an Indian pancake with a curry-chicken dipping sauce), is outstanding. The noodle soups are meals in themselves; prawn mee (egg noodles, shredded pork, and large shrimp in a spicy shrimp broth) is sinus clearing, while the curry spareribs are spectacular. The drinks and desserts include sooi pooi drink (sour plum) and pulut hitam (creamy black glutinous rice with coconut milk). But vegetarians beware: There’s not much on the menu for you here; most dishes are prepared in either a meat or fish broth.

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