Fiamma Osteria

Frommer's Review

From Stephen Hanson (Blue Water Grill, Ruby Foo's, Dos Caminos), the Steven Spielberg of restaurateurs, comes his art-house effort, and this one wins all the awards. A Hanson trademark, the restaurant is beautifully designed, depicting a modern northern-Italian style with mirrors, lustrous red walls, leather chairs, and a glass elevator that can deposit you on any of the four floors. But the decor here is surpassed by the sumptuous, modern Italian food. Start with an antipasti of grilled octopus in an olive vinaigrette sprinkled with ceci beans (chickpeas) and cooled by chopped mint leaves, and then move on to a pasta or two: The agnolini (braised oxtail and beef shank ravioli) and the buffalo milk ricotta tortelli are both outstanding. We often tend to neglect Italian main courses in favor of pastas, but doing that here would be a mistake. The orata (grilled daurade with cranberry beans in a Manila clam broth), the pan-roasted cod with shrimp and broccolini, and the nodino (seared veal chop with sage and sweet-and-sour cipollini onions) are too good to pass up. Fiamma is blessed to have the services of pastry chef extraordinaire Elizabeth Katz; her dessert creations are second to none. Her torta, a dark-chocolate praline cake layered with hazelnut brittle and gianduja gelato, is an absolute masterpiece. Dinner is a scene, so don't expect intimacy, but lunch, with a similar menu, is a much more relaxed option.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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