Celeste

Tiny but charming Celeste features its own wood-burning pizza oven, which churns out thin-crusted, simple, but delicious pizzas. But pizza is not the only attraction here; the “fritti” (fried) course is unique; the fritto misto de pesce (fried mixed seafood) is delectable, but the fried zucchini blossoms, usually available in the summer and fall, are amazing. The fresh pastas are better than the dried pasta; I never thought the fresh egg noodles with cabbage, shrimp, and sheep’s cheese would work, but it was delicious. Not on the menu, but usually available, are plates of rare, artisanal Italian cheeses served with homemade jams. Though the main courses are also good, stick with the pizzas, antipasto, frittis, and pastas. For dessert, try the gelato; the pistachio was the best I’ve ever had in New York. The restaurant has been “discovered,” so go early or late or expect a wait.

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