La Nacional

It’s not easy to find the oldest Spanish restaurant in New York. But once you find it, your perseverance will be rewarded. Founded in 1868 as a gathering spot for the Benevolent Spanish Society, La Nacional, a social club, is a hidden treat. At one time, Spanish expatriates congregated here, filling the room with smoke and talk of Spanish politics and football. Gabriel Garcia Lorca spent countless hours here, documenting his New York City experience. The cigarette smoke has been replaced by the smoke of the grill, which turns out tasty tapas with sardines, octopus, and shrimp. There is a somewhat formal dining room in front, while in the back, next to the open kitchen, there are a few tables and TVs usually tuned to soccer matches. Come and share a bottle of Spanish wine and make a meal out of the tapas—the albondigas (Spanish meatballs), boquerones (white anchovy filets), and aforementioned octopus are my favorites—or you can order the restaurant’s excellent paella. Tapas range from $7 to $9, while no entree is more than $18.

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