Abboccato

Frommer's Review

The Italian entry from the Livanos family, owners of Molyvos and Oceana, and no ordinary Italian this! The menu is ambitious and hearty, with offerings that include such appetizers as the affetati misti (a platter of cured meats), pesce crudo (raw fish marinated in olive oil), and grilled tripe; unusual, rustic pastas such as spaghettini with razor clams and mullet roe and orecchiette with cuttlefish; plus such staples as tagliatelle Bolognese and spaghetti carbonara. Rich meat mains include braised (in chocolate and port wine) beef shortribs and crispy veal sweetbreads. Service is good, but not up to Oceana's levels. The room is a throwback; its round yellow booths are reminiscent of 1960s New York Italian.

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