Oceana

In 2009 Oceana moved from its longtime yachtlike home on the east side to a luxury liner of a space in the McGraw-Hill building across the street from Rockefeller Center. The move to pre-theater, expense-account territory could have been a culinary misstep, but I’m happy to report that the new Oceana is as good as or better than its previous incarnation. At Oceana, as its name implies, it all starts with extremely fresh seafood, and no better than to sample that than with the restaurant’s very good raw bar comprised of a variety of oysters, clams, crab, and mussels. The marinated appetizers—ceviches, crudos, and smoked fish—are delicately flavorful and a few of them would make a fine meal in itself. But if you have the stamina (and the deep pockets) to continue, the whole branzino, roasted and stuffed with mushrooms, spinach, and olives will reward you for your grit. With fish this fresh, you can’t go wrong with any of the “simply prepared” items offered on the menu, in particular the wild striped bass. Service for such a large restaurant is exceptional and the sommelier and his crew are especially attentive to proper pairings with your selections.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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