Frommer's Review
In the previous edition of this guide, I wrote that Onera, the former Greek restaurant in the same Upper West Side location as Kefi, was not your father's Greek restaurant. Onera, owned by chef Michael Psilakis has been transformed by Psilakis into Kefi and back to something much closer to your father's Greek. More accurately, Kefi is like your Greek mother's (if you had a Greek mother) kitchen and in fact, the restaurant was inspired by Psilakis's mother and her traditional recipes. So gone is the Offal Tasting menu of Onera and in are Greek standards like moussaka, spinach pie, Greek salad, and grilled fish. But oh what Psilakis does with the standards. The mezes (Greek appetizers) are good enough to make up a meal; it's hard to resist the selection of spreads accompanied by pita, the warm feta, tomatoes, capers and anchovies, and especially the sublime grilled octopus salad, as good as I've had anywhere. But something's gotta give if you want to save room for entrees like the flat noodles with braised rabbit, the grilled whole branzino with potatoes, olives, tomatoes and feta, or the slow cooked, comforting lamb shank on a bed of orzo. If it is humanly possible after indulging in all of the above, don't miss out on the desserts, most notably the walnut cake with maple walnut ice cream. Service is casual and the space is a bit cramped, but not enough to deter you from the many pleasures of Kefi.
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