Café Gray

Frommer's Review

Gray Kunz, a four star winner from the New York Times when he was the head chef of the now departed Lespinasse, in 2004, opened his own place amongst the most prestigious (and expensive) food court in the world in the Time Warner Center. Café Gray sits on a corner of the third floor overlooking Central Park. The problem is, you cannot see much of Central Park from the restaurant's dining room. Instead, blocking the view is the live show of talented cooks preparing your meal in the expansive open kitchen. You just can't have it all here. But you won't care once those well-trained cooks plate your dishes and your server begins bringing them to you. And if one of those first plates holds the unparalleled starter of risotto with a mushroom fricassee, the mushroom gravy rich and melding mouth wateringly with the starch of the risotto, the lack of Central Park view will no longer be worthy of complaint. It seems that short ribs are on every menu of all the new trendy restaurants. That may be because they all are trying to equal Chef Kunz's remarkable braised short ribs he pairs with a delicate mound of soft grits in a meux mustard sauce. And though the menu changes seasonally, the short ribs will always be available. Desserts, as they seem to do at so many quality restaurants, sometimes exceed the main courses in grandeur and the chocolate pistachio soufflé is no exception. Service is impeccable and welcomingly casual, but with all the commotion in the kitchen do not expect a hushed environment.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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