Frommer's Review
On far west Tenth Avenue, with a prime view of a parking garage across the street, Cookshop is brawny and boisterous with food to match. Seating can be tight and you would hear your neighbor's conversation if it weren't so loud in the restaurant. But never mind: enjoy the chef's creations. A pizza with shaved king oyster mushrooms and stracchino cheese or the grilled Montauk squid in a salsa verde make good starters to complement the restaurant's innovative cocktails. Or combine a few of the snacks like the addictive fried spiced hominy or the smoked pork tacos as starters for the table. Cookshop offers entree options in four categories: sauté, grill, wood oven, and rotisserie. The whole roasted porgy, head and all, cooked in the wood oven is moist and full of flavor, while the chili-braised beef short ribs served over cheddar grits from the sauté section are properly tender to the bone. Service is casually efficient and helpful. Maybe Cookshop's emergence to restaurant-barren Tenth Avenue will be the beginnings of a new eating mecca.
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