Nightlife

Torremolinos is the most happening spot on the Costa del Sol. The earliest action is always at the bars, which often are open during the day and stay lively most of the night, serving drinks and tapas.

We like the Bar Central, Plaza Andalucía, Bloque 1 (tel. 95-238-27-60), for coffee, brandy, beer, cocktails, limited sandwiches, and pastries, served indoors or on a large, French-style covered terrace. It's a good spot to meet people. Prices range from 1.50€ to 2€ ($2.40-$3.20) for a beer, 3€ to 5€ ($4.80-$8) for cocktails. Bar Central is open Monday to Saturday 8am to 10pm (later in summer).

La Bodega, San Miguel 40 (tel. 95-238-73-37), relies on its colorful clientele and the quality of its tapas to draw customers, who seem to rank this place above the dozens of other tascas in this popular tourist zone. Many guests come here for lunch or dinner, making a satisfying meal from the plentiful bar food. You'll be lucky if you find space at one of the small tables, but once you begin to order -- platters of fried squid, pungent tuna, grilled shrimp, tiny brochettes of sole -- you might not be able to stop. Most tapas cost 2€ ($3.20). A beer costs 1.50€ to 1.70€ ($2.40-$2.70), a hard drink at least 3.50€ to 4€ ($5.60-$6.40). La Bodega is open daily from 12:30 to 5pm and 7:30pm to midnight.

Ready to dance off all those tapas? El Palladium, Palma de Mallorca (tel. 95-238-42-89), a well-designed nightclub in the town center, is one of the most convivial in Torremolinos. Strobes, spotlights, and a loud sound system set the scene. There's even a swimming pool. Expect to pay 3.50€ ($5.60) or more for a drink; cover is 8€ ($13), including one drink after 11pm. The club is open from 11pm to 6am in summer months only.

For flamenco, albeit it of a touristy kind, head for Taberna Flamenca Pepe López, Plaza de la Gamba Alegre (tel. 95-238-12-84), in the center of Torremolinos. In an old house (at least old in the Torremolinos sense), this is a tavern-style joint with darkened wooden furnishings. Many of the artists come from the boîtes of Seville and Granada, and they perform nightly at 10pm April to October. Shows are substantially reduced during the cooler months, and confined mainly to the weekends -- call to confirm first. A 28€ ($45) cover includes your first drink and the show.

Gay men and women from throughout northern Europe are almost always in residence in Torremolinos; if you want to meet some of them, consider a drink or two at Abadia, La Nogalera 521 (no phone), open daily 6pm to dawn.

One of the Costa del Sol's major casinos, Casino Torrequebrada, Avenida del Sol, Benálmadena-Costa (tel. 95-244-60-00; www.casinotorrequebrada.net), is on the lobby level of the Hotel Torrequebrada. It has tables devoted to blackjack, chemin de fer, punto y banco, and two kinds of roulette. The casino is open daily from 9pm to 5am. The nightclub offers a flamenco show year-round at 10:30pm Tuesday to Saturday nights; in midsummer, there might be more glitz and more frequent shows (ask when you get there or call). Nightclub acts begin at 10:30pm (Las Vegas revue) and 11:30pm (Spanish revue). The restaurant is open nightly 9:30pm to midnight. Casino admission is 4€ ($6.40); both shows, casino, and cabaret/nightclub admission cost 35€ ($56), with dinner, 69€ ($110). Bring your passport to be admitted.